When i removed the Driver side, the problematic for myself was where it connects under the front of door and above the front of the running board. As well (If i recall), there's also a connector near the front that is also hard to get at.
__________________ My project for the next ummmmm 15 yrs!!!! 1997 OD TJ with a few MODS 09Ford Escape XLT 4WD V6
08Toyota Matrix XR (Wife's Car) Welcome to Holland (Homage to my Boy)
I don't remember the liners being a big deal to remove. A few bolts, screws, push-ins, whatever, and they came right out.
__________________
- art k. - Moderator for the Superduty, V10, and FE forums
'01 F250SD SC SB XLT V10 4x4 auto 3.73 Warn hubs Volant CAI, eBay headers and y-pipe - 5-star custom tunes on SCT X3
'97 Cougar XR7 30th Anniv Edition 4.6L
'74 F250 Highboy FE390 deceased! I've been wrong before, I'll be wrong again. Just wait and see.
Do I use a drill guide? I could make a jig that attaches the new stud that is right next to it and use a rectangular piece of aluminum with a drill jig, and make sure that the drill bit goes into the new hole straight? It says that the drill bit should not have any give or tolerance when drilling. Thats why I suggest making a jig to make sure the drill goes in correctly.
So with Mcmaster Carr, should I use a 5/16th drill bit or one smaller? If I need a starter drill, what size starter drill should I use?
Should it be 1/4 or maybe 7/32nds or smaller? The starter drill bit.
These drill bits are not cheap. $68.75 for a drill bit?
Mike
My truck has been sitting at my parents house for a few weeks and everytime I see my father he is like, Mike, whats up with the truck?
I should put some plywood under the jackstands cause the jackstands are starting to make imprints into the driveway.
Some guys have made a drill guide before, but they were only using hss or cobalt drills. If you make a guide it should have a hardened drill bushing in it but the carbide drill will still cut the drill bushing some. I usually use a drill about 1/8" or so as a pilot. If your drilling the ezeout you can't center punch it so you have to try and start the drill in the center of it and drill through. The studs can be centerpunched because they are not that hard. You have to figure that the drill will cut oversized a bit mainly decause you can't hold the drill 100% still. In Mcmaster a 5/16" carbide "High Roc" drill costs $35.72. I would get two pilot drills and one final size drill. If your going to break a bit 9 times out of 10 it will be the pilot drill because its smaller in dia.
I can also post pics for you since your post count isn't high enough.
I don't remember the liners being a big deal to remove. A few bolts, screws, push-ins, whatever, and they came right out.
Just have to take your time. There is a lot stuck onto the fender liners. I bought a 100 pack of those plastic push in "tree" fasteners out of Mcmaster because you end up ruining them when you remove them. I also used them to attach my homemade mats I made to cover the open area in the fender liners near the shock.
Thanks for all the Tips on the Header install. I just drove my excursion after the Ebay headers, 10 new coils, New Oxygen sensors. WOW What a difference the Ex is very enjoyable to drive now. No more exhaust leak noise. No more random missfire. What a difference about $400 in parts and a little cussing can do.
Well, my v10 seems to be more snappy, and has a bit more power. But what I think is really different is, that going 60 mph, I don't hardly have my foot on the gas peddle.
Can't say I totally like the sound it now makes, actually it sounds like several different engines. Real nice at an idle, just barely stepping on it it gets a bit louder, but a bit more and it sounds like a ricer, then it seems to get a bit quieter, but at 60 you can hear a mellow tone out the back. I'm thinking about putting some resonators on. I am looking more for mpg than for it to sound great, so not at a loss there yet.
Wife is going back to Iowa in a week, I'm going to have her take it again and compair the mpg's to what she got the last time.
I would try welding on the end of the extractor than welding nuts on. But if your drill is into the threads, welding won't work!
We'll just got it back form the exhaust shop. $628 for R&R both manifolds and replace studs/nuts. There were 8 total broken, 3 of which had to be drilled and extracted. Only issue I have is that it appears that they moved or relocated the steering gear box to gain better access to the drivers side. Now my steering wheel is not straight....
OK. I have about $200 in a dremel, with flexible shaft, misc supplies, a few cobalt drill bit, a few left handed drill bit, a 90 degree thing for the drill.
OK. I have about $60 in studs and nuts.
OK. I have about $203 in solid carbide bits, drill bushings, and stock for a jig, plus the helicoil kit, all from Fastenal.
OK. Found a used manifold for $92 and change at a used light truck auto supply place. I couldnt get the two bolts that hold the manifold to the ypipe. Tried drilling them out, tried heat, and they wouldnt come out.
OK. Maybe another $24 in the two bolts and nuts for the connection to the ypipe and manifold and $50 for the gaskets.
Ok. Plus a day or two of paying my helper to sit there and watch me do it.
I had to used a helicoil in the first two locations next to the firewall on the passenger side. Well, do you know what happens when you drill to far? All the coolant comes out......................Learned the hard way. The solid carbide drill bit was too long, I should of gotten the 2 3/4 inch drill bit instead of the 3 3/4 one. Tried to cut it with a dremel a little shorter, but I was just buffing the drill bit. Lost my patience and snapped the drill bit.
So I used the helicoil and had to cut the stud down so just like 7 threads were in the helicoil. Used some red rvt high temp sealant to seal the hole.
Nothing leaking on day two. My ABS light came on, but hoping I can erase the code and it wont come back on. I had to disconnect the ABS to move the wires out of the way. Any thoughts? It should not come back on? Right?
I took a pic or two but my post count is still low.
I dont think I have to do theother side as of yet. Only one or two studs are broken. But now I know what I am getting into when I start this again.
Well put a few miles on the V10 around here after header/exhaust install. MPGs ended up at 11.9. Wife put on about 120 after that fillup and hit allmost 15. She filled up before she left for Iowa today, she called and it figured out to be 17.8 mpg. So rough estimate is around a 20% increase. Now I'll have to figure out how long it will take before I get my $630.00 investment backoutof it.
I'll check back in with the mpgs for the return home trip. In a few weeks I'll hang the 5th wheel camper on behind and see what happens.
OK. I have about $200 in a dremel, with flexible shaft, misc supplies, a few cobalt drill bit, a few left handed drill bit, a 90 degree thing for the drill.
OK. I have about $60 in studs and nuts.
OK. I have about $203 in solid carbide bits, drill bushings, and stock for a jig, plus the helicoil kit, all from Fastenal.
OK. Found a used manifold for $92 and change at a used light truck auto supply place. I couldnt get the two bolts that hold the manifold to the ypipe. Tried drilling them out, tried heat, and they wouldnt come out.
OK. Maybe another $24 in the two bolts and nuts for the connection to the ypipe and manifold and $50 for the gaskets.
Ok. Plus a day or two of paying my helper to sit there and watch me do it.
I had to used a helicoil in the first two locations next to the firewall on the passenger side. Well, do you know what happens when you drill to far? All the coolant comes out......................Learned the hard way. The solid carbide drill bit was too long, I should of gotten the 2 3/4 inch drill bit instead of the 3 3/4 one. Tried to cut it with a dremel a little shorter, but I was just buffing the drill bit. Lost my patience and snapped the drill bit.
So I used the helicoil and had to cut the stud down so just like 7 threads were in the helicoil. Used some red rvt high temp sealant to seal the hole.
Nothing leaking on day two. My ABS light came on, but hoping I can erase the code and it wont come back on. I had to disconnect the ABS to move the wires out of the way. Any thoughts? It should not come back on? Right?
I took a pic or two but my post count is still low.
I dont think I have to do theother side as of yet. Only one or two studs are broken. But now I know what I am getting into when I start this again.
Damn bro! It sounds like you didn't have any fun with that project. Good luck with the other side.
Well put a few miles on the V10 around here after header/exhaust install. MPGs ended up at 11.9. Wife put on about 120 after that fillup and hit allmost 15. She filled up before she left for Iowa today, she called and it figured out to be 17.8 mpg. So rough estimate is around a 20% increase. Now I'll have to figure out how long it will take before I get my $630.00 investment backoutof it.
I'll check back in with the mpgs for the return home trip. In a few weeks I'll hang the 5th wheel camper on behind and see what happens.
Interesting - VERRRRRREEEEE interesting.
I've noticed since I did my y-pipe (after the headers) that the around-town MPGs seem to have gone past 10MPGs when they were down around 7-8 usually. Or even less. I have a few months of driving it yet to really see ... and some highway trips this summer. We'll see...
KEEP US INFORMED!
__________________
- art k. - Moderator for the Superduty, V10, and FE forums
'01 F250SD SC SB XLT V10 4x4 auto 3.73 Warn hubs Volant CAI, eBay headers and y-pipe - 5-star custom tunes on SCT X3
'97 Cougar XR7 30th Anniv Edition 4.6L
'74 F250 Highboy FE390 deceased! I've been wrong before, I'll be wrong again. Just wait and see.
One of the things I noticed most after installing my Thorley headers/Y is the extra pull down low. Put the truck in gear and it wants to idle away. On hills where I would drift back on when I let off the brake, now after the headers I can idle up that hill. The extra torque is definatly noticeable. Have to make shure to push harder on the brake pedal when stopped at traffic lights, let up on the brake a little and it starts moving. The idle both in drive and in neutral hasn't changed. I havn't really seen a difference in mpg, but I think my choice in tires are hurting my mpg.
Ok Dee made it back for Iowa, on the way down the first time whe got 14.1. on the way back she got just over 13 mpg.
This trip she got 17.77 down and 16.3 on the way back, with a few extra short trips on the way back.
So I would say the headers and the custom exhaust will pay for them selfs in time. I am planning on putting some resonators on the end of the pipes to help get rid of that ricer sound.
Next I think I will try one of those throttle body spacers. Son in law put one on his 5.4 in his 1/2 ton and said he came up a bit over 1 mpg. He put on a cold air intake, he said it has more power than before. Mostly over 2,000 rpm. Him and his brother have always been racing there trucks against each other. His brothers chevy would have him off the line and gradually gain on him. But now he says his brother get about a 10 foot jump on him, then can't gain any more. So I would say power wise, that the air intake does work. Mpg wise, he hasn't checked yet.
Sorry if these questions are redundant but I think they're pretty simple. Will an exhaust leak be the first sign my manifold bolts are breaking. From what guys are saying it seems you need to have at least a couple of bad ones before it becomes a problem. My 03 V-10 has only 31K but I realize it's probably more of an age issue versus miles. Are they easily visible from underneath(I have an E-350). When they go I assume it's not covered by warranty. I have ext. for another 2 years. I'm mechanical but I know this job would be over my head so I'm just trying to prepare myself for the future. Thanks for any info.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.
