Yippee!!! Finally broke a manifold stud (or two)

[Boris2000]

Well, we got R done tonight. That is we got all the studs out. I did make a jig to drill out the studs, but then I thought I would call my nephew (master mechanic) and ask him what he has been doing with these broken studs. Well he told me, DO NOT DRILL them OUT. He asked if I had a good wire feed welder. (yes) And a die grinder. (yes) He was going to give me a hand on another project, but got him to show me how he takes the studs out. I took him about an hour the get the one stud out, then he had to leave and I had a service call to do. When I came back, I took a stab at it, it took me about two hours to get the other 4 out. It wasn't real easy, but was easier than drilling. Took the die grinder with a good cutting head and cleaned/champherd out the holes and bolt ends. Then cranked up the amps on the welder a bit and built up the bolt with weld, till it was just a bit over flush. The took a 3/8 nut and welded that to it. Some came right out and some took several stabs at it. But now they are all out. Nephew said that he wouldn't chance not using stainless studs or bolts. For fear of them rusting up and oxidizing, making it more difficult in getting them out the next time. So will see what I can come up with tomorrow. If nothing else I will put the ones in that I have till I get stainless. Will see about getting an appointment to get my performance exhaust installed tomorrow also. By the way the bolts that came with the headers were the wrong ones. Just didn't have the right threads on them.

[Krewat]

I don't know, I drilled the broken off studs, used an easy-out (not the screw-type, the square type) and they came right out.

If they are lower than the head surface, welding that much with aluminum around it is asking for trouble - in my (very) humble opinion.

By the way... and this is a BIG BY THE WAY!

My original stock studs WERE stainless.

The problem IS the stainless. They give. But make them give too much, and they break off.

Grade 8's plain steel, you have a better chance of them not breaking and the nuts will slide on the manifold when it heats up and expands.

Use anti-sieze, and you won't have a problem.

[Boris2000]

Well, today I got the headers installed. I only came up with seven stainless steel bolts of the right size. For the rest I used grade 8 steel. Reason for this is that I may be able to get the truck in for the exhaust yet this week. If not it will have to wait two weeks till I get back from vacation. But I'm still thinking of going all Stainless, not sure if it's a good or bad Idea, but thinking the steel one's will eventually rust anyway, not sure how they will come out after that? But I do say that it is a time consuming project, took a 1/2" box wrench and custom bent it to fit around the header tubes. Still had a few that you had to be creative with. Anyway they are on. On to the rest of the exhaust.

A few of those studs that had broke off longer were a bear to get out, even with welding nuts on them. I don't know that drilling them and using an extractor would have gotten them out.
Nephew went to school several years to get his Master Mechanics degree. He said he's done a lot of them this way and to him has been a lot easier? The one stud he got out took him an hour, the four I did almost 2 hrs.

[Krewat]

That's weird - all the ones that stuck out came right out with a pair of vice-grips.

Whatever works, at this point, eh?

[Timido]

I am in the middle of doing my Ebay Headers! I have the pass side studs out. One of mine I could not get out so I am heli-coiling that one. The other broken studs I used the welder and built it up to weld onto a nut. My Headers came with no bolts.

[Boris2000]

Well, I got the SD uo to the muffler shop last night. I have an apt. for it on Wed. but last night was the only time I had open to get it there. So I may have it back Wed night or Thurs. Now I just hope the muffler guy makes it sound nice. Not super loud, but nice.
I'm on vacation starting Fri. afternoon, but will try to stop back the give my opinion before I leave.

[rlh68050]

I so need to get this done on mine. I have four bolts broken on my passenger side and they are four rear ones, two top and two bottom. Funny thing is that it doesn't seem to leak much. I can only hear a bit of ticking when the engine is cold. I'm scared to take it to the local exhaust shop (what if they ruin a head?) and the dealer wants $1,000 to do it.

[Boris2000]

Originally Posted by rlh68050

I so need to get this done on mine. I have four bolts broken on my passenger side and they are four rear ones, two top and two bottom. Funny thing is that it doesn't seem to leak much. I can only hear a bit of ticking when the engine is cold. I'm scared to take it to the local exhaust shop (what if they ruin a head?) and the dealer wants $1,000 to do it.

Well, if you have the time, a die grinder and a wirefeed welder. You can do it yourself. Just have to make sure you have time to do it. One weekend I worked on getting the Y-pipe and manifolds off. The next getting the stuborn studs out, then getting the broken ones out. Nephew showed me how, and it was easier than I thought and mine were pretty stuborn. First thing he did was to grind out the stud hole about twice the size of the stud, plus cleaned up the top of the broken stud. Then took the wire feed welder and built up the stud till it was flush. Then he welded on a 3/8" nut. Seemed that the heat loosened the studs almost right away. But then you have to work the stud back and forth to loosen the weld to the head. Seems like your gonna screw it up, but works pretty slick. Took the nephew one hour to get the first one out. It took me just under 2 hours to get the last 4 out.
To me it's do it yourself or pay big bucks, I can't see paying someone if you can do it your self.

[Krewat]

Even if you don't have a welder, you can do it.

I didn't use my MIG when I did mine, so...

[rlh68050]

Originally Posted by krewat

Even if you don't have a welder, you can do it.

I didn't use my MIG when I did mine, so...

How in the world do you access some of the back ones, especially the passenger side?

Also, does anyone have the Ford part number for the kit?

[Krewat]

Originally Posted by rlh68050

How in the world do you access some of the back ones, especially the passenger side?

I was able to unbolt the motor mounts, jack up the motor and got clearance to the back ones. I only had two broken off below the surface of the head. Both the rear-most bottom ones on either side of the engine.

Jacking up the engine, I was able to get a straight shot right at the stud, drill it, and easy-out it.

[rlh68050]

Originally Posted by krewat

I was able to unbolt the motor mounts, jack up the motor and got clearance to the back ones. I only had two broken off below the surface of the head. Both the rear-most bottom ones on either side of the engine.

Jacking up the engine, I was able to get a straight shot right at the stud, drill it, and easy-out it.

Thanks for the message. I found an exhaust shop that will do the job for $500. Guy says that he's done a few already.

[Gene/F-53/V10]

Krewat,
Great post, alot of reading, but well worth it. Noticed one broken stud on driver side read most cyl. when son and I did the spark plugs last fall.

Under there today with a light and mirror, both upper and lower broken on driver side , and one upper broken on rear most cyl. on passenger side.all broke even with manifold. I guess more will break when I try to remove them.

Because it's a F-53 Motorhome chassis it appears to be a little more room to work. Already have a right hand reversable drill. Need to get the Square Easy Out extrator as you suggest. And the correct bolt/studs as indicated.

Only notice the ticking at startup, and no visible exhaust leak at the manifold. Don't know when i'll get to it, but it's on my to do list.

Thanks again. Gene.

[rlh68050]

Originally Posted by rlh68050

Thanks for the message. I found an exhaust shop that will do the job for $500. Guy says that he's done a few already.

I went up to the exhaust shop to show the mechanic what he had in store. He didn't seem to worried about getting all the studs out. What he was concerned with was one or both of the manifolds being cracked or warped. New manifolds are $500/ea!! I think I would probably go with headers if I faced this problem. I know some have installed the eBay headers -> eBay Motors: Ford F250 F350 Excursion 6.8L Triton V10 Headers 2V (item 290235585846 end time Jun-08-08 23:55:15 PDT)

are these any good?

[Krewat]

$500 each? They are listing way over $1000 for one, and around $700 or so for the other.

I sold my used set of manifolds on eBay for $400 - no questions asked - in my eBay store, with best-offer turned on. No offer, just bought them for $400...