I have a 78 F250 that I am in the process of getting running again. One of many things on the list is the brakes and thats what I am currently doing. I am presently doing the rear brakes. Let's first say that I am not a mechanic by any means, I have tools and the ambition and can take things apart and put them back together again. With that said I took off the rear tires(after jacking it up and using jack stands)and thought that how to remove and what still seems to be the correct way to remove these particular brake drums was to remove the axles and bearings and remove the whole hub/drum as it appears to be all one piece? When I went to the auto part store to get the new drums they look like drums from a 1/2 ton w/8 lug holes? I told the guy that wasn't even close and he said that I didn't need to remove the whole hub just the drum and that the ones that I have, must be rusted together and to try taking a hammer and get them sepperated? When I got home I tried a couple good whacks with a ball pean but nothing? I didn't want to whack away on these things as I still think that it one piece!! So back to the "not a mechanic" statement and the P.O.S. Haynes repair manual doesn't really show a picture or explain the removal of the rear brake drums on a 78 F250 can somebody please help!!!!!

Thank's
Mason

 

I bet there are near 40 threads in the Steering/Brakes forum on the Dana drum removal that go in-depth on the repair procedure.

I'll go look for you.

EDIT:
Found a couple.

It would have made things so much easier if the user had of put the topic in the title.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...lp-needed.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...icky-drum.html

 

I appreciate your responce and the links to those threads but I am still unclear .... did I remove the drum/hub assembly correctly? Also they are pretty hammered I would assume that these drum/hub units will be alot more expenzive then the $44.99 price tags on the ones that the auto parts store showed me as I need to get new ones to replace cause I dont think that they can be turned?

 

You remove the axle, large nut, washer, large nut, bearing, then the drum is supposed to slip off. If it is really jammed on there, go around it with a mini sledge and loosen it up. If that doesn't work, stick a screwdriver into the hole on th inside to push away the lock on the small gear inside, then rotate the gear with another flathead to loosen (I can't remember which way, my Haynes has the wrong direction printed). Which ever way it WON'T turn when the little lock piece is on the gear...
Your brakes may be warped and have started cutting into your drums, like mine were when I did my brakes last week. This makes it VERY difficult to get the drums off, as they are "keyed" into the shoes. I loosened up my shoes as far as I could, then took a crowbar and (half an hour of work later) pried the drum off. I had to get the drum out far enough to see the shoes, then ran a couple of c-clamps on them so they would compress out of the way. Can't really damage anything when prying the drum off, just the shoes, the springs have enough give not to damage anything. Finally got mine off and had both turned for $7.50 each.
If they really are rusted together, hit them with some PB Blaster and let them sit for a while, then try again...

 

Thank you very much Taylor. I took them to the machine shop and they are going to press off the old drums, hot tank the hub and put new seal and then press on the new drums for $10.00 bucks a drum. Will up date with more progress as the front brakes are next along with a new booster and master cylinder. Again Thanks for the help!

Mason

 

Make sure they put the inner bearing in the hub before the seal ok? The seal holds the bearing in there and if the seal goes on without the bearing, you'll need to pull the seal and put the bearing in. Your shop should know that though.

 

Glad to hear it worked out. Good timing too, I just finished mine so it was fresh in my mind...

 

Sweet, just got the drums back! They look all pretty all shinry and new looking. Was kinda raining here today so I'll wait till this weekend to re-assemble the rear and start the fronts. Thanks for the help! And YES I was very lucky that it fresh in your mind Taylor good lookin out!

 

Haha, I was just as amazed at how nice the insides looked on mine too! Make sure you're throwing new shoes in there too while you're at it. A new master cylinder is always a good idea (they're too inexpensive to take the chance on a bad one). Glad to help!