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  #16  
Old 03-17-2007, 07:03 PM
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JeremyJudd JeremyJudd is offline
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By the way...Ford charged me 90 bucks for bleeding a clutch it would appear that they did not bleed. Is this a company that is good at refunding money if it turns out they weren't too bright with their mechanicing, or should I just kiss my 90 bucks good bye and forget having the Ford garage fix anything in the future?
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  #17  
Old 03-17-2007, 08:03 PM
suicide_kid suicide_kid is offline
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i'm having the same problem as jeramy is what if u gravity bleed it and just opened u put the fluid and left it open for a while?
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  #18  
Old 03-22-2007, 12:14 AM
cadriver cadriver is offline
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Everyone talks about depress the clutch pedal, gravity, etc.
But no body ever mentions the use of a hand held vacuum pump they work wonders when doing the brakes, you guys should try it next time on the clutch.
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  #19  
Old 03-23-2007, 11:29 PM
cadriver cadriver is offline
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I bleed my clutch today and still not right, I did everything in the book and what you guys suggested, and there's no air bubbles that I can see ,it's just a pain in ****, I gave up I worked 6 freaking hours and still can't get a firm pedal, now the clutch works but it disengages very quick almost with the foot on the floor, so you guys want to know why everyone here can't have it right?
check this PDF article and there's nothing else to say!
http://www.perfectionclutch.com/PDF/v12-205-manual-excerpts.pdf
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  #20  
Old 03-24-2007, 01:41 AM
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john112deere john112deere is offline
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Suicide-kid: look at the master cylinder, the way it's mounted you can gravity bleed it forever, but if there's air in there, it won;t come out.

I had good luck with the technique described in the tech. sticky on this site- basically, you disassemble the master cylinder in the truck, and when you pull the pushroad out, it'll bleed itself (not explaining this very well; read the post, and know that it worked for me when my mechanic and local dealership both swore there was no more air to be bled...)
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  #21  
Old 03-24-2007, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john112deere
Suicide-kid: look at the master cylinder, the way it's mounted you can gravity bleed it forever, but if there's air in there, it won;t come out.

I had good luck with the technique described in the tech. sticky on this site- basically, you disassemble the master cylinder in the truck, and when you pull the pushroad out, it'll bleed itself (not explaining this very well; read the post, and know that it worked for me when my mechanic and local dealership both swore there was no more air to be bled...)
Yeah is not an easy task believe me!
I got mine right this time, what I did is I removed the master cyl switch and disconnect the master cyl, and then I pulled it out, with the lines still connected I tilted the master cyl up the best I could, and a bubble or two came up to the reservoir, and the fluid level went down like a 1/8 or so, then I put everything back together and the pedal got firm, "Gravity is the trick"
still I believe this is a lousy way Ford mounted the master, engineering my arss!
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  #22  
Old 07-07-2010, 01:57 AM
monsterford monsterford is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadriver View Post
I bleed my clutch today and still not right, I did everything in the book and what you guys suggested, and there's no air bubbles that I can see ,it's just a pain in ****, I gave up I worked 6 freaking hours and still can't get a firm pedal, now the clutch works but it disengages very quick almost with the foot on the floor, so you guys want to know why everyone here can't have it right?
check this PDF article and there's nothing else to say!
http://www.perfectionclutch.com/PDF/v12-205-manual-excerpts.pdf

I am trying to bleed my clutch but it is not working to well. I put clutch fluid in the resovoir, opened the bleed velve and pumped the clutch a bunch of times and nothing happend. But what i also cant figure out is that i wanted to make sure my lines were not bluged, so i took my air compresser and blew through the lines, well if you blow air through the lines the fluild orair coming out of the bleeder velve should be seen or heard, but that is not happening...is there something blugged or am i doing something wrong?
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  #23  
Old 07-07-2010, 02:03 AM
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CHELLIE CHELLIE is offline
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Yes, reverse pressure bleeding is the only way that you can get the air out of some GMC heavy truck slave cylinders too, i tried like heck to bleed a slave cyl on a gmc truck and nada an old timer at the shop said reverse bleed the system, yep, it worked
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  #24  
Old 07-07-2010, 06:50 AM
Eaglefixer Eaglefixer is offline
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Here a good link to fix your problem. You might need to take your Master cylinder out again to bleed the lines and MC. Hope this helps. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/89...dal-issue.html
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  #25  
Old 07-09-2010, 11:03 AM
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JeremyJudd JeremyJudd is offline
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A few years later....

I started this thread back in 2007 but noticed folks are still having the same problem.

After all of my struggles trying to bleed the clutch, it turned out that wasn't the problem at all.

The torque specs for the clutch plate in my Haynes manual were far too low.

It recommends 20 ft pounds (if I remember correctly). This is not enough to enough bring the clutch down tights against the flywheel.

I discovered this by finally pulling everything apart again and looking between the flywheel and the clutch. There was a visible gap.

So, if your clutch absolutely will not bleed, worst case scenario is that everything has to be pulled apart again, your clutch needs to be tightened down flush with the flywheel and then torqued.

I was relying on the torque settings entirely and was "clicking" out before the clutch ever hit the flywheel.

The result? The pickup wouldn't shift because the clutch was unable to engage properly.

Hope this isn't your problem because it's a royal pain, but just an fyi.

Hope this helps....

Last edited by JeremyJudd; 07-09-2010 at 11:06 AM. Reason: grammar....
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Old 07-09-2010, 11:03 AM
 
 
 
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