Very hard clutch pedal, won't disengage
#1
Very hard clutch pedal, won't disengage
I just installed new clutch, slave cylinder, throwout bearing, pilot bearing in 1996 Ranger, 2.3L. When I got it all put back together, the clutch was very hard to push and would not disengage the clutch. I have to push the pedal extremely hard to the floor to get it to start. I can change gears while it is not running but it will not go into any gear while running. I started it while in first gear and was able to shift throught all the gears without using the clutch by feathering the gas and dropping it into gear. I have tried to bleed the hydraulics but it hasn't helped. Maybe need to replace the master? Any help would be appreciated.
#2
when I replaced everything inside the bell-housing for my '93 4.0L manual, the same thing happened. I got about a block away and couldnt pull it out of 1st gear.
The way we fixed it was to simply add clutch fluid (DOT 3 Brake Fluid) to the little clutch fluid resiviour and pump the clutch. Add more fluid, pump clutch. Repeat until better.
We never had to bleed the line, but then again we didnt replace the master/slave for the clutch, just the throw-out bearing, clutch plate and such.
I dunno - I'm no master mechanic... I just now that the same thing happened to me, and we fixed it by replacing all the clutch fluid that drained out while we were working.
Hope it helps!
The way we fixed it was to simply add clutch fluid (DOT 3 Brake Fluid) to the little clutch fluid resiviour and pump the clutch. Add more fluid, pump clutch. Repeat until better.
We never had to bleed the line, but then again we didnt replace the master/slave for the clutch, just the throw-out bearing, clutch plate and such.
I dunno - I'm no master mechanic... I just now that the same thing happened to me, and we fixed it by replacing all the clutch fluid that drained out while we were working.
Hope it helps!
#3
Sounds like there maybe air in the lines. I had it happen to me when replacing my clutch 50k back. There's a bleeder valve on the slave if I remember right. Pull that rubber cover from the tranny bellhousing and you'll find it in there. The air compresses to much to give enough pressure to fully engage the clutch!
#4
Agreed...try to bleed the cluth again. This hydraulic setup is especially difficult to bleed, moreover the slave than anything else.
BE SURE TO KEEP THE RESERVOIR FULL!
When I bled my clutch, I operated the bleeder valve, my mom operated the clutch pedal, and my dad kept an eye on the reservoir. My dad watched as all the air came out through the reservoir. So try to get a third person to help if you can.
To bleed the clutch:
-With the bleeder valve closed, depress the clutch pedal to the floor.
-Slip your foot off the pedal and let it fly back to the top (DON'T be gentle).
-Repeat several times (5 is a good number)
-Depress the pedal to the floor, hold it there, and have a helper open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder.
-Allow the fluid to run out.
-When the fluid stops flowing from the valve, shut the valve and release the pedal. Repeat as needed.
-Be sure to keep the reservoir full, a third person to watch the reservoir is a very good asset to have.
BE SURE TO KEEP THE RESERVOIR FULL!
When I bled my clutch, I operated the bleeder valve, my mom operated the clutch pedal, and my dad kept an eye on the reservoir. My dad watched as all the air came out through the reservoir. So try to get a third person to help if you can.
To bleed the clutch:
-With the bleeder valve closed, depress the clutch pedal to the floor.
-Slip your foot off the pedal and let it fly back to the top (DON'T be gentle).
-Repeat several times (5 is a good number)
-Depress the pedal to the floor, hold it there, and have a helper open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder.
-Allow the fluid to run out.
-When the fluid stops flowing from the valve, shut the valve and release the pedal. Repeat as needed.
-Be sure to keep the reservoir full, a third person to watch the reservoir is a very good asset to have.
#5
I hope this isn't your problem, but, on some replacement throw out bearings there is a metal sleeve that you have to remove. There is a flier inside the box showing the sleeve. If you do not remove the sleeve, pushing on the clutch is like pushing on the metal floor, very hard, it moves very little. It is easy to overlook because it looks like part of the bearing assembly. Of course, you have to take the trans back out to solve the problem. BTDT. jd
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
F350SuperCab4x4
1999 to 2016 Super Duty
2
02-09-2016 10:11 AM
540milotalon
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
4
02-04-2016 07:09 PM
Frozen_Joker
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
17
04-10-2014 08:06 AM
Fordbronco69
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
5
12-13-2012 07:54 PM