That's great, the whole kit is less than i can buy just the flanges for anywhere else.
I sent them a message asking if the 352-427 flanges were oval port or rectangualr port (they had a general description for the kits). If they say rectangular I think I'll be making an order there fairly shortly.
justin,rick here i just wokeup + remembered another great sitefor you + anyone else who needs paint its paintforcars.com gallons of acrylic enamel start out at 35$, the kits are even better deals, i just remembered your multi colored truck
Allright, I've been having a percieved overheating issue. Since the early FE's use a 1/8-27 NPT temp sending unit I've been running my factory gauge since the swap. Recently the truck started reading at the line at the very end of "normal" right before H. Before going crazy and replacing the water pump i decided i needed to know where the truck was really running.
So today I drilled the sending hole out to 7/16" and tapped it 1/4-18 NPT to use the aftermarket sending unit and gauge I had been using with my 300.
Only issue I ran into was when I torqued the brass fitting down it distorted and the sending unit would no longer fit through the hole. I drilled the fitting out to 3/8" with it installed which let the fitting slide right in.
My overheating has just gone from always gnawing at the back of my mind to running at 200* (it has a 195 stat, so it's just right)
As for paint I was already planning on shooting my truck Case/IH Red. I have all the guns and can get Case single stage acrylic enamel gloss for $20 a gallon through a friend. Either that or I've always been a fan of Rangoon Red, which i can get through him as well.
For the $4 a tap costs it was worth it just to drill it out. Took about 10 minutes and I don't have to worry about pulling the sender everytime I pull the water neck (have to do it more often than i care to think)
And I'm running a 195 on purpose, it's OE for the motor and gets the motor running about 200. Good for mileage and power.
Hi, I just bought a 1985 f150 with a blown 300 6cyl, My diesel truck was just rolled right after I spent almost two grand on the tranny. I am currently back in college and I haul scrap to make ends meet. I cannot afford to put my diesel back together yet. I bought this f150 and was going to go through a 302 I have to put in the truck. I allready have a good 390 and I was thinking that if I could make that work fairly easily it would save me some money and hopefully some time. PLus I think it is cool to say that my 85 has 390 power, to bad it's not a 427. I have never been a member of this, I just used a search engine and put fe ford swap into 1985 f150 and found you . So any help and pictures would be great. I just got divorced and lost my garages so I am officially a shade tree mechanic again. so the easier the better. I was looking through the bronco grave yard and such too see if they had motor mount adapters but no luck. thanks alot I will be waiting to hear more from you. dbslocum@hotmail.com
Last edited by 4slocum; 06-24-2007 at 11:28 PM.
Reason: entering email address
I would say you should go to the FE big block section in the forum's+ post a new thread there + you will get the answer's ya need there! I know nothing about them except they are big block's + share a different bell housing bolt pattern? than small block's. good luck to ya ! + welcome to the best damn ford site around!!
There are no emissions inspections where I live for anything made before 1996, so I didn't have to worry about it. Otherwise i highly doubt this motor would pass since it has no EGR or AIR provisions and doesn't have operative cats. All i know is it goes and goes quite well.
As for a 390 swap vs. a 302 unless you have the bellhousing and everything it's not worth it to do the 390. I only did it because i had absolutely everything and it was a pretty staright forward throw it in (some welding and cutting was involved, but not too much)
Ya I have got bell housing clutch and everything, I contemplated putting the old 4 speed and divorce transfer in, I used to have alot of highboy trucks, but sold them all to a friend.
The more i drive this truck the more slight complications I'm running into. Nothing major mind you, just some long term fiddle-withs.
If anyone is going to try this in an 84 up truck and try to maintain the use of the external hydraulic slave cylinder, it's doable but takes ALOT of attention to detail.
The hydraulic clutch is designed to work with a raised ball pivot while with the mechanical linkage the throw out arm more or less pivots on the rear face of the bellhousing. This makes it difficult to build a bracket that will allow the hydraulic clutch to hit the throw out arm.
In order to remedy this, I welded a nut to the throw out arm and ran a bolt through it to get the pivot to the correct height. This worked fine until i replaced the clutch about 5 days ago. I went from a stock clutch to a pretty darn heavy one. This caused the pushrod and bolt to want to kick out when the clutch was disengaged.
This was fixed pretty easily by using a piece of heavy wall 1/2" OD that I drilled and tapped for 3 set screws. the sleeve slides over the pushrod, the set screws screw down onto the pushrod, and the tube rides over the bolt through the arm. It keeps it all from kicking out and going out of alignment, so it's all great now.
As for using a C6, there's no reason not to just so long as you have a C6 with the FE bellhousing pattern.
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