I found some very good step by step instructions with illustrations at this link someone gave me http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/oilchg.html
The question I have is the refilling instructions (last illustration) explain filling with oil until it shows on the crosshatch of the dipstick, then starting the motor checking it again and filling until the oil level is indicated toward the top of the crosshatch.
What I don't understand is are you checking and topping off the oil with the motor running? Maybe I am reading wrong but I want to be sure?

Thanks,

JB

 

Hi, Dave here. I believe I would pour in about 3 gallons (12 qts), and with the 2 or so in the filled filter, then start it up or bump the starter let it motor over, and turn the key right off....and maybe repeat it 2 or 3 times so it doesn't start dry....then start it and let it idle for a couple of minutes, and shut it down...give it about 3-5 minutes to stableize the oil level and top it off to the top of the cross hatched area...just my technique for filling it to the top and keeping it happy.

 

Yup.....Like Dave said....About 12 quarts in the crankcase and 3/4 in the filter.....Start engine and let run to cycle.......Shut off and let sit to let oil settle. Clean dipstick.....Then check......Add......let settle....check again......add as needed.....The actual checking is done with the engine OFF.......

 

You turn the engine off and let it settle back down before checking it. The easiest way to refill it is to fill the filter before installing. Then add oil for a total of 14 - 14.5 quarts (this includes what you've already added to the filter). Start it up and let it run for a minute and shut it down. Let the oil settle back down and check it. It's a 15 quart system so you'll be close. Top it off and your done.
Joe

 

Mine has been very consistent since the day I bought it. I can add exactly 14 quarts total (including what I add in the filter), and it will be dead on the amount that I need. The capacity is 15 quarts, but you have to remember that not all the oil drains out when you change it. Some is still left in the HPOP reservoir.

 

Also, when I changed my oil in January (first time ever for me with a PSD), I neglected to fill the filter before installing it. The resultant low oil pressure almost shut the engine down immediately after it started, but the oil got there in time for pressure to pick up before the engine shut down. I realized my mistake immediately, and am grateful that the oil flowed fast enough to prevent the engine from being starved too long. What complicated my situation was that I had also installed an oil bypass filter at the same time, so I had to get BOTH filters full before the pressure came up.

THEREFORE... make sure that you fill your filter with oil before you start the engine, otherwise, the engine will be oil-starved for a short period of time, which isn't good.

 

Thanks for all the input guys....You confirmed what I was already thinking but I just had to check.

Cheers,

JB

 

I was wondering if anyone has information on the HPOP and the oil inside. I change my oil very frequently (I've been told I'm wasting my money), because when I first bought my truck the changes were as close as 2k. I pull a fairly large 5th wheel and I figure the oil is cheap insurance. I recently converted to Rottella/Sycn. and pulled the oil out of the pump and replaced it. The removed oil from the pump was alot darker then the oil from the pan. Any ideas, thanks Joe..99.5 P/S, 68k. Baldwin open air, Banks Trans Command, Waterless non pressurized Coolant.

 

OMG you guys are ****. I just pour in all 4 gallons (some of it in the new filter) and call it good. 50+ oil changes later and no problems. I have checked the oil less than 5 times in the 8 years I've had the truck.

 

That was the only time I did that, only because I didn't want the dino mixed with the Sync. I think it's running better since I did that,,lol.

 

Interesting -- when I change mine, I fill the filter as full as I can, and pour the rest of the 15 qts in the engine. When I check the oil after running it for a little bit (and letting it sit long enough for it to drain back in the pan), it's right at the top of the range on the dipstick. The last time I checked it, it was still there.

So why would the oil in the HPOP be darker than the rest??

Joe
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2002 7.3L F250 XLT CrewCab ShortBed 2WD

 

From everything I have been able to read, there is about 3/4 of a quart that is left in the HPOP that is not able to be drained out. This is dirty oil that will be mixed with the rest of the clean oil. It may not be a lot, more or less than what I was told, but it will darken the new oil, depening on how dirty it is.

 

I understand that part -- it sounds to me that he's saying the oil drained from the pan (old oil) isn't as dark as the old oil from the HPOP. That's the part I'm wondering about...

Joe
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2002 7.3L F250 XLT CrewCab ShortBed 2WD

 

Izzy, The oil that I sucked out of the HPOP was darker than the pan oil, I cant explain whats going on. DaveWilliams probably hit the nail on the head. Probably this oil doesn't join the main stream as much. I'm a novis when it comes to fixing a truck I had for 8yrs. I have alot of oil changes on my truck, I admit I'm probably at the high end of the **** syndrome when it comes to my oil. This was the first time I pulled the sensor and pulled the oil out. Maybe it sort of acts like a filter in some way and the particles settle to the bottom, if that's possible. Strange to me also.

 

I forgot the oil was relatively clean, only had 2k on it since the last change. I read somewhere on this site that it's a good idea to remove this oil especially if converting from Dino to Sync. I suppose it wouldn't hurt.