If the end cap of an anode rod has a slight cone in the center (I bet if I say "TIT" it will be sensored) or a rounded bulge, it means it is a Magnesium anode rod.

If it is flat, it is aluminum, and sometimes it will have the letters "AL" stamped into the cap.

The important thing to remember though is that if the rod gets used up (80% or more eaten away) it pays to swap them out for different types.

If the one you have is aluminum, the next should be Magnesium, and vice-versa.

This way you can avoid having a buildup of the same material happen in your tank...

(TIP OF THE DAY)


~Wolf

 

Interesting. I never thought about the water heaters in trailers and motorhomes using a sacraficial annode. I'm guessing that's probably especially important because everything else in the water system of an RV except the water heater and the faucett's are made from plastic.
Great tip! Thanks for continuing to share your RV tech tips with us. They are always welcome!

 

Great tip Wolf, Thanks!!...Brian

 

Not to worry - I'll keep them coming as I think of them.

~Wolfie

 

This is a good tip but, remember if you have an Atwood water heater it has no anode and should not have one added.

 

Greywolf - any tips on rubber roofs?

 

Hey wolf, how long does the rubber roof last before you have to do the repaint and prime? I was looking at mine today and I'm hoping that a good wash will help it out but If I have to do the re-paint job I guess that I'll be using the new Camping world which just opened up this week here.

 

Do not clean with anything but a very mild soap. No citrus, no petroleum based products. You will be amazed at how many rubber roof cleaning products have these in them! Use of these will produce loss of adhesion and get bubbles in your roof. Use Dicor to seal around any vents or joints. Be careful on that wet roof!

 

I've cleaned it before, last year in fact, and i normally use the regular rubber roof cleaner. Seems like a small investment for what the replacement would cost. And I know your right about the wet roof. I found that if I do the job bare footed it seems to give me a little more traction but its got to be warm..........I don't like the cold...heheh.

 

Not to step on Wolfies toes , but as far as roofs go keep them clean. You can use rubber roof cleaners that are on the market or products like simple green or greased lightning. Make sure the roof seals aren't cracked and shrinking away (make any repairs if the seals look shakey). Put down a good protectant to keep the roof soft and pliable.

Also if you want the side of the trailer to stay cleaner, keep the roof clean. All the dirt and tree droppings and dust sit up there until it rains then it runs down the side.

Happy camping, and don't hate me for jumping in on Wolf

Toyman

 

Keep in mind that Atwood right now is caught up in the parent corporations bankruptcy, and may not be able to do anything for a while yet until things are sorted out!

On rubber roofs, you should be constantly vigilant of the condition of the sealant. DICOR is the best for them.
Wait a minute - this needs a thread of it's own...

 

Go for the new thread......

 

Hey bigred stop by Dewitt sometime if you want to check out the available products for roof cleaning. I don't want to mention any official names here but I think you can figure it out.

Toyman

 

I normally go to dennis trailer

 

no just kidding. Greg is a good guy. But you're not far away, swing in and say hi sometime.

Toyman