This is a total FE noob question. I known to change manifolds I need to pull the rocker arms and pushrods, but how difficult is it to reinstall/reset them after the new mani is on? I've spent a lot of time working on SOHC/DOHC engines, but I've never worked on an engine with pushrods. How much of a PITA am I in for? Trying to see if I need to plan an evening or a weekend for the swap.
not a major operation, remove distributor,remove rocker arms and pushrods..keeping the pushrods in order so they go back in the same place is the key, then you won't have to deal with preload problems
Exactly, everything else being the same, just remove the rocker arms/shafts (the right way), keep the pushrods in order, and reassemble in the opposite direction
When I say "right way" to remove the rocker shafts, I mean break all the bolts loose working from the outside in, and go 1/2 turn off every bolt, another 1/2 turn, etc. etc. until they come fully loose. Others here will probably have a slightly different way to get them off, but 1/2 turn increments might take a while, but it's better than bending/cracking a shaft.
Also, put the right and left shafts back on the correct side too. And make sure you have the correct bolt matching the oil hole in the head.
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- art k. - Moderator for the Superduty, V10, and FE forums
'01 F250SD SC SB XLT V10 4x4 auto 3.73 Volant CAI, eBay headers and y-pipe
'97 Cougar XR7 30th Anniv Edition 4.6L
'74 F250 Highboy FE390 deceased! I've been wrong before, I'll be wrong again. Just wait and see.
and make sure the shouldered bolt on rocker stand goes in the correct hole on reassembly.
thats an oil hole, no oil, you're screwed.
be sure to install dist. before tightening down the intake on assembly. you dont want to do it twice. and seems to me, shorter intake bolts go to the rear.
the 45 degs. is correct too!
be sure to use enough silicone sealant at end seals as well.
Good point about the distributor being in the hole before tightening...
__________________
- art k. - Moderator for the Superduty, V10, and FE forums
'01 F250SD SC SB XLT V10 4x4 auto 3.73 Volant CAI, eBay headers and y-pipe
'97 Cougar XR7 30th Anniv Edition 4.6L
'74 F250 Highboy FE390 deceased! I've been wrong before, I'll be wrong again. Just wait and see.
Check out the article about bent pushrods on the FE block. Its available in the Articles section: FE blocks that bend pushrods; a dirty secret.---something like that.
At over 37 years and over a million FE miles hotrodding never had "bent pushrods". Is this something I should know about? I'll do the same builds as before, they seem to work without oiling (flooding) and "bent pushrod" problems tjhank you.
I didn't find the article on the bent pushrods, but I'm using my original 1961 pushrods and adjustable rockers on the 3rd Fe motor, they must have a few hundred thousand, hard miles on them and I have never bent one?
what is everyones opinion on replacing the cork gaskets with a bead of silicone? you know, run a bead and let it get somewhat stiff and then run a little more on top to make it tacky and then install manifold.
i've never used cork end gaskets. they move around when you position manifold.
also, there's a chance it will make manifold too high for bolt alignment.
run the bead, let it tack up and a little more works then position and lower.
RTV Silicone belongs in the bathroom, use Permatex's The Right Stuff on the end rails plus a light smear around the water ports. Center the dizzy bore.
I find a small dab of The Right Stuff at the head/intake joint, use a 100% rubber VC gaskets like Fel-Pro's VS 13049 R, contact to the VC's then add a thin coating of Permatex's 1 MotoSeal (item # 29132).
You'll have a dry motor without weeps or leaks. JMO's that work with me.
Thats a good article and info for the new to FE people, I guess its just standard procedure to unload and load the rockers for us who work on them more often, and forget to mention it in our helping
