Modular V10 (6.8l)  

$1200 repair, help any options!!!!!

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  #16  
Old 03-08-2007, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Bushgandc
Anyone ever try to replace these before they are a problem?
I am probably going to try to do it this spring or summer.

Instead of using the Ford replacements, I might make my own. If I do, it'll be 18-8 stainless, at least, so it doesn't look TOO crappy. The only thing I think might be a problem will be re-torqueing them for a while.

I remember a discussion a year or two ago about the Ford replacements, and how the studs were better stainless, but the nuts were not. Still stainless, but not the same grade. Someone mentioned that it was better to do that with stainless. The difference was a good thing, for some reason. Fred?

It might also be time to put headers on it. I am seriously thinking about the 3-valve manifolds and getting a custom y-pipe made (a necessity anyway, the 3-valve manifolds aren't the same dump point).

I'm not so much into noise anymore, but a decent compromise is good...
 
  #17  
Old 03-08-2007, 04:20 PM
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Wow, $430 each, even from y2k Ford.

I wonder how many 3-valvers are in the junkyard so far?
 
  #18  
Old 03-08-2007, 04:38 PM
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Arrow

Originally Posted by krewat
Wow, $430 each, even from y2k Ford.

I wonder how many 3-valvers are in the junkyard so far?
Is that for the 3-valve manifolds? Or the stainless manifold bolts?

Also...do the 3-valve manifolds fit our V10 2v? Very interesting if they do...


biz
 
  #19  
Old 03-08-2007, 04:39 PM
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Ford and other companies too use crappy hardware. How hard is it too put a dab of anti-seize on at the factory. My truck is an 04' and I need to remove the bed holdown bolts, well three are seized fast and a 800ft lb impact could break em loose.

I'm putting headers on soon so the bolts are getting replaced with ARP S.S. bolts the studs on now are rusted I hope they don't break off.

Anyone have pics of the 3V exhaust manifolds?

Monsta, thanks for posting the flaps, going to get a set.
 

Last edited by dkf; 03-08-2007 at 04:42 PM.
  #20  
Old 03-08-2007, 04:42 PM
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Anyone know the thread pitch and length on these studs so I can check for alternatives?

Thanks in advance.

Greg
 
  #21  
Old 03-08-2007, 05:18 PM
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The 3-valve exhaust manifolds ARE supposed to fit ...

I think Fredvon4 is missing in action... I wonder what wild area he's parked in with his beer cooler?
 
  #22  
Old 03-08-2007, 05:26 PM
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Might not be his beer cooler that's got him dry-gulched, Art. This is ladies' night at most respectable (and not so respectable) Cut-N-Shoots....uh....I mean, nightclubs. I bet he's got his best high-heeled pumps, the pink ones, his mink shawl with matching belt, and rhinestone studded purse waiting in line....winking at the bouncers. Heck I bet he even shaved his back and such. Come to think of it - I bet he's a sight to behold...
 
  #23  
Old 03-08-2007, 06:32 PM
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Art, I'd go with the coated Hedman headers before putting on stock manifolds.
 
  #24  
Old 03-08-2007, 06:40 PM
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Oh my the word is out....


no fellows........

I am not admitting to any Truck Nutz drag queen memory lane flash backs... Orn




OK not to hijack this too far from the implied and direct questions

First

I have it on good authority that the usually free cast 2005 and up Ford 3 V exhaust header are a direct bolt on

I also know that Camping World or other RV sites that regularly install Banks kits on these trucks just chuck the cast headers in the dumpster...

I assume for a 6 of brew, a mechanic might be induced to make a call letting someone know when a fresh set has made the fatal clang/bang in the dumpster

The ford Factory replacement stainless steel studs might or might not have stainless steel nuts in the packages... They can usually be ordered by a savvy parts monkey as V8 or V10 "kits" or individual parts.... word is to insure you get all stainless you need to order each stud and nut as single parts....

I have not seen or heard about a stainless to stainless mismatch.... but I do know that I helped install a replacement "Set/Kit" and the nuts rusted....hummmm seems they were not stainless nuts in them thar packages

72 inches.... 208Lbs.....51ish.....Long hair and tatoos.... permanent bad attitude....not really drag queen materiel.... but you all keep on with your Freudian fantasies....
 
  #25  
Old 03-09-2007, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Fredvon4
72 inches.... 208Lbs.....51ish.....Long hair and tatoos.... permanent bad attitude....not really drag queen materiel.... but you all keep on with your Freudian fantasies....
 
  #26  
Old 04-17-2007, 06:00 PM
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I don't want to talk anyone out of purchasing the "flaps" if they think they will deflect snow, or other crap. I want to pass on something that I've heard, but cannot verify. That is as metal heats and cools in high degrees of variance that some elements of the metal are taken away. This is supposedly very true of exhaust systems. The metal will weaken to the point of breakage in the complete absence of snow, salt, mud, or other muck. Just plain old metal fatigue based on extreme heat cycles. I think this was a selling point made by a couple of header coating companies.
 
  #27  
Old 04-17-2007, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by drewworm
I don't want to talk anyone out of purchasing the "flaps" if they think they will deflect snow, or other crap. I want to pass on something that I've heard, but cannot verify. That is as metal heats and cools in high degrees of variance that some elements of the metal are taken away. This is supposedly very true of exhaust systems. The metal will weaken to the point of breakage in the complete absence of snow, salt, mud, or other muck. Just plain old metal fatigue based on extreme heat cycles. I think this was a selling point made by a couple of header coating companies.
Nothing is taken away by the heating and cooling of various metals. What happens over extended periods of time heat and cooling cycles can changes the grain structure of the metals. Over time the metals can be annealed or normalized and can weaken.

The thing that affects any type of steel, cast iron etc. is rapid cooling. By keeping as much snow, water and gunk from splashing on the hot exhaust manifolds and bolts you will have less chance of them cracking, rusting or warping.
 
  #28  
Old 04-17-2007, 07:50 PM
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I installed the rubber flaps about a month ago. Cheap and easy to do.
 
  #29  
Old 04-19-2007, 07:36 PM
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I had to get the bolts done on my 01 v10. 1800 at dealer for all replaced. I shopped around got a local shop to do it for 1000. The guy said it will be the last ones he will ever do. If they were not already broken the second he touched mine they snapped. He had my truck 2 weeks because he hated fixing it.
 
  #30  
Old 04-19-2007, 07:55 PM
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Years ago to eliminate this nut removing problem, and snapping off studs they used brass nuts on the steel studs, and it was no problem getting the nuts off.
I guess it costs to much now days.
 


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