These are one in the same Mercon V has been modified as many time as there is stars in the sky in the time sense inception. So what do you have or what are you getting? This is why most of the oil change places here in the south always add 6 OZ. of XL-11 to any transmission oil change they say it always helps. Most of Dealers say the same thing they say most of the changes to Mercon V have improved Heat and Corrosion factors. As a matter of fact the 5R55S I am putting back together at this time will get a bottle XL-11 before the engine cranks.

 

There is a serious problem as virtually all of these transmissions are failing at about 100,000 miles. That is really poor when older vehicles often turned many times over.

 

I have three truck's with 5r55 transmissions one has over 200K miles the other two have over 150K miles never had the oil package as far as I know. I will finish the overhaul of one of the 150K transmissions in the next 2 days with luck, the problem appears to have been caused from low fluid and oil break down. The overdrive gears and drum came apart.

 

You are living in la-la land. This is not the reality, and is simply not true. The older A4LD would often fail at 70,000 miles. Automatic transmissions are known to wear out, so failures at 100,000 miles is not uncommon. Most of these failures are caused by a simple lack of maintenance. I know people who have gotten more life out of them, I personally have gotten more life out of them.

 

My 92 Explorer had 193k on the original A4LD. Keep them cool and they will last.

Sent from my Telegraph using IB AutoGroup

 

FORD "FOUR VERSIONS OF 5R55"


Just as the header states, the Ford 5R55 Transmission can have an N, S or W behind those numbers.

The 5R55 is a rear wheel drive 5-speed that appeared on 1999 and later vehicles.


The 5R55W came out in the 2002 and later Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger models.


The 5R55N appeared in the Jaguar S-Type and Lincoln LS and in 2002 in the Ford Thunderbird. In 2003 the Thunderbird and Lincolns switched to the 5R55S that had the Select Shift (allows drivers to shift like a standard without the clutch).


The 5R55S without the Select Shift is used in the 2005 and later models of the ford Mustang.


Although the 5R55N is very similar to the W or S models, only a few parts are interchangeable.

I had a factory installed transmission cooler and I am the original owner. I used it on highway and the city. The transmission over drive went out first, then I lost reverse. I had it rebuilt and only 500 miles on the rebuild. A new rebuild and its doing ok.

I have never had to rebuild a transmission on one of my vehicles. This transmission was a federal order recall. Ford talked them into adding an additive. That did not solve the problem. I do not think they can be sued again as that would be double jeopardy.

My 92 ford f250 4x4 is strong. It has seen a lot of off road and carried a lot of weight. It was built in Canada, not Mexico.

 

I had a chance to replace the reverse servo this afternoon, initial results seems to be mixed. Sometimes it engages reverse hard, and sometimes it's nice and smooth. I think I will give it a few weeks of daily driving before I decide to swap the valvebody.

Everything looked really clean when I dropped the pan, a bit of dark sludge around the magnet, nothing in the bottom of the pan, cut open the screen and nothing in there. Thought maybe I would find some bits of o-ring or gasket, somewhere, some sort of "smoking gun".

Didn't get any XL-11. The local dealer was being a PITA, and can't find it online anywhere.

Thanks to all who put in $0.02

 

Just bought a 2001 XLT 3.0L 4x4 Auto Trans Ranger with 69000 Plus miles on it. Believe I have a 5R55E transmission(Door Jam code of "D"). That's Also that's what Fordparts.com states once I entered my Vin No.

The Over Drive light blinks on & off, not at first but once I get up to speed. Also I'm seeing the gas gauge go down before my very eyes as I drive it. Gas is not leaking.

Just like to add a few notes Truck was lifted to fit P265-75R16 on it So I'm figuring the speedometer & odometer will be off. I reset the trip odometer when I filled the tank & the Odometer is currently at about 70 miles & I'm almost to 1/2 full. Gas petal also required a heavy foot.

I do feel there is a transmission problem & that's what I need help figuring out. RPM's at 50 MPH is at about 2600 & Shifting from 1st to 2nd is not hard but slow to happen. I'm also not sure if its shifting thru all of the gears as well. I have been reading this thread but its huge. So I wanted the get a discussion going. I have a Speed Sensor for the Rear Differential but have not install it yet. I have read that there is a common problem with the Valve Body Gasket that seems to be the solution to a number of issues.

Looking for any assistant possible.

 

That blinking on and off is a problem. Don't use the overdrive if you overloaded the tires. Unless your a good transmission guy your going to need to rebuild that.

If you do have it rebuilt ask them to walk through the whole process. If they do not have a transmission cleaner, look else where. Some paint your transmission so you know it was rebuilt.

That is all I will except next time unless your willing to gamble and pull one out of the salvage yard.

 

That reverse hard parts are all the way to the front of the transmission. My hard parts wore into the casing its self. So I needed a full replacement and a full rebuild.

 

Let's hope it doesn't come to that. I'm hoping I can fix the issue with a valvebody swap, before any permanent damage is done. Also hoping it isn't the clutch or bands, not very familiar with the innards of transmissions. If the valvebody doesn't do it I'll look into finding a decent rebuilt and swap the transmission, which I was hoping to put off for at least two years from now.

 

Before I take it somewhere. I'd like to pull off the Valve Body & verify if theres a blown gasket or not. If there is a blown gasket I would figure on doing one of the following:
*Get an updated Valve Body replacement, or
*Get a kit to upgrade mine, or
*Just fix the gasket with a new Separator Plate with the bonded gaskets included.

 

Perform the engine breaking test in 1st gear, if its wimpy or non existent, then a valve body gasket problem belongs on your suspect list.

Seeing as how you have a blinking OD light, it indicates the tranny controller/computer has likely stored trouble codes, so have your trusted tranny shop use their scantool to pull the codes & post All code Numbers, as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues.

If you have to fork over a pile of your gold for a tranny code scan, maybe consider opting for a low cost ELM scantool & run FORScan freeware thats tweaked for Fords & Mazda, to have it scan All of the vehicle controllers for trouble codes. The ELM can be had for around $25 shipped & they are offered in wireless Bluetooth, or WiFi, or USB corded models. It can save us Way more than it costs, in diagnosing our vehicles woes. Here is a link & some info on the WiFi model I opted for to pull my Rangers ABS codes & get me back on track trouble shooting that system, back in Dec 2013.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html

More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

I had done what I believe to be the 1st Gear test a couple of days ago. What I did was place the Trans down into Drive 1 Gear got the truck moving & then let off the gas. The truck did slow down some I'm just not sure if you might be considered as wimpy.

I like your suggestion of getting a ELM scantool.

 

OK, the valve body swap did not fix my reverse issue. So, it looks like a rebuilt is in in my plans.

I'm going to follow some local leads this week. Also exploring any transmission rebuilders that sell online and ship and do decent quality work. found a place in IL, Shift Rite Transmisssions, anyone heard any good or bad about them?

TIA