Guess it would help to add that it is a 2001 Sport Trac 4 speed auto.

 

Normally wouldn't buy a ford, but took a chance, and so far it's been really making me think that I shouldn't be so hard on ford's... It's pretty Nice.......but of course, right away, the tranny light starts up..... Seemed to only pop on after some freeway driving... Just light cruising, not during acceleration or deceleration... I read over 500 posts on this thread and I'm still not sure if I have the valve body gasket failure problem or what... (pretty sure it's not the speed sensor? No abs or the other lights on) ..... Mostly the only issue seems to be at freeways speeds, under normal operations I'll be able to cruise at 60 at about 2200 rpms, and when I accelerate a little, the truck will go faster, but rpms won't really increase (TC locked up)... But when the od light comes on the rpms will be about 2600, and will go up to 2800 +when I press the gas harder, not really picking up acceleration until the rpms go up a bit (tc not locked in?).. I wouldn't call this "flare" as it's still clearly attached, just not as solid as normal operation. The second symptom I observed was that when the od light is on, 1-2 is a little harder of a shift, and 2-3 is even harder than 1-2...other than that, and possibly no tc lockup after 5th, I didn't feel anything different.....no 2-3 Flare, no slipping, no delay to engagement. . Shutting off and restarting makes the light go out, and it runs normal... Until light pops back on...... After reading, I tested the 1st gear engine braking, and I don't have any.... That's the only symptom that makes me think it's the valve body gasket.....

So... With no 2-3 Flare, and instead hard shifts, plus no engine braking, am I looking at only solenoids? , whole valve body? , or the usual gasket issue? I'm assuming bands aren't needing adjusted (well maybe for good measure)...... I'm a really broke student with a new baby, so taking it in and paying for anything is really not high on my list, but I'm willing to do work to the valve body if it's what is needed (sort of hoping it's the beginning of the gasket problem, or just 1 solenoid) .... I'm going to call around to see if anyone can scan the Trans codes for free since clearly that's the best first start. (Oreilys couldnt)

 

Yea you need to get the codes first for sure, they will probably have something to do with the converter lock up.

The shifting hard is because of the computer set a code.

 

Is there a dipstick for the tranny ?
If memory serves me some had no dipstick !

 

Yes, there's a dipstick..... Pretty sure it's the 5r55e..... I really don't want to drop the pan twice, so my real question is, how much should I expect to do? Entire valve body, gasket and solenoid, or just the solenoid, (assuming that's the code).... How can I tell if mine is in the time range for the tsb?... Like I said, new baby, and really broke, so want to fix this in one shot.

Oh, also, engine braking in first is back... Haven't continued to test, but that's good, yeah?... Would a bad tcc solenoid cause the loss of engine brake in 1st?

 

The fix for the valve body is to replace
the seperator plate with a new seperator plate
that has the gaskets bonded to it , and then
also install a shift kit !

Ford dealers have the gasket and shift kit to fix
these valve bodies , but you will have to give them
the part #s !

I had everything to redo the VB packed away ??

 

Not sure if you are responding to me, I'm aware that the fix is for a Separator plate and bonded gasket, plus shift kit...what I meant to ask is, if the code comes back as the tcc solenoid (which I expect), should I even be bothering to worry about the valve body gasket problem, or is it just the tcc solenoid .... I figure to do it right, my options are: get a eBay reman valve body already done up with new solenoids and Separator ..... Or, just the Separator plate and shift kit and tcc solenoid (from eBay or dealership) ..... Or just tcc solenoid.... I don't want to have to open it up again, so i want to do it right first, however I can't afford $300 right now, so I want to do this as cheap as possible... (I saw some people talking about a $40 reman valve body on ebay? Sounds cheaper than buying the Separator and shift kit from the dealer, let alone a tcc solenoid.)

 

With this problem the Torque Converter
could be low on pressure and there can be
Shuttering. So this could throw that code.

I would never trust a valve body from eBay

Even a valve body from the dealer wont have the
proper fix. It will be just a stock body!

I would pull it and do it myself.

 

So Is this a symptom of the beginnings of the valve body gasket issue? Or a failing
tcc solenoid? I don't ever feel any shuddering... Only noticeable difference is slightly higher rpm at freeway speed, and the feeling of no tc lockup (I think, I have a 2000 Suzuki esteem with the exact same issue, oddly, and it throws a tcc solenoid code...they are known for those solenoids going bad intermittently)...

 

I to have had the same problems,the od light comes on but it is some what in overdrive and yet not. I have a harder shift between 1-2gear. The code came back that the TCC was bad, replaced it and no improvement, darn light came back on. Replaced 1gear shift solenoid and stills shifts hard. It has been like this for two years now, going to take it in to have it fixed. I can't afford to replace good parts with new ones, that's like wiping before you poop. It don't make any sense. I really don't have time to do the work either. Thanks

 

I rarely have to replace the TCC solenoid, most of the time the TCC problems are with the converter itself or worn valves in the valve body, the pump can also cause converter problems. Blown out valve body gaskets generally cause shifting issues when hot.

http://www.sonnax.com/system/announcement/37947-09K.pdf

http://www.sonnax.com/system/announcement/37947-07K.pdf

 

I have a problem on my 1999 ford ranger 3.0 v6 I just put in a new transmission and when I turn it of it makes a schreching sound and I look up real close and it looks like my fly wheel is rubbing up an against the top of oil pan what do I do to fix this problem.

 

I was driving my 02 Ford Ranger Edge and I stopped to get gas. When I started it back up it wouldn't go when I put it in drive. I put it in 2 low and it would barely go. The O/D light was flashing. Drove it across street to auto parts store to see if they could hook up to to pull codes. They told me that since the check engine light wasn't flashing they couldn't pull the codes. When I tried to go again it wouldn't go in drive, in the lower gears or in reverse. I had to get someone to bring trailer to get me home. I then changed the transmission fluid and filter. When I dropped the pan there were no metal shavings and the fluid didn't smell burnt. After doing that i was able to back the truck out and I drove it down the road and it shifted good and had no problems and turned around and drove it back home and right before I pulled in the driveway the o/d light started flashing again. Then it wouldn't go in drive, the lower gears or reverse. Since then I have changed both speed sensors and it didn't fix it. Need help figuring out what is wrong with it. Please help.

 

Check the tranny fluid level as called out in your owners manual. If ok, have a trusted tranny shop pull the tranny computer trouble codes, as a flashing OD light says trouble codes are stored & they can offer up good trouble shooting clues & post All code Numbers. If you can't do that, then consider investing in a $20 ELM327 scantool, load FORScan freeware & let it scan the tranny computer for codes & post the numbers. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html

 

I had a similar problem. All of the interior parts of the transmission had to be replaced with a new outer core. If I had to do it over again. I would just have bought a brand new transmission. After 500 miles, I had to have it redone but it was warranted. These are crappy transmissions that were recalled. The feds let them get away with an additive.