i done this today with a factory rebuilt valve body i got and now have no gears what so ever so what did i do wrong any help please

 

I'm not having issues but, I have a 99 XLT with original trany fluid @ 98k. People have been suggesting I change the fluid. In tha past, every time I changed fluid on my cars, my trany fell apart shortly after.
Not having any issues and I don't want any but I never had a vehicle with this many miles so I'm in uncharted waters...need advise!

 

Hello I have read most of the posts in here but I still have a question. I just bought a 1999 Ranger 2WD auto trans and the trouble it has is when you put it in drive you have to rev it up to almost 3 grand before it will engage into drive and reverse seems to be about the same. If you shift it into drive or reverse it wants to die but will no engage. Am I looking into getting a new valve body gasket a new solenoid or bite the bullet and hit up pick a part for a tranny.

Thanks in advance and I hope I explained it correctly

 

Welcome to FTE.
Sounds like you may have more than one problem, so use your ELM scantool to have it scan the tranny & engine computers for trouble code clues & post All code Numbers.
I'd suggest you start a new thread, so you get answers just for your problems & post All of the trouble code clue numbers there.
Right now, without more info, it sounds like the tranny pump belongs on your suspect list, maybe low fluid level if your lucky.
On the engine wanting to stall when the tranny is shifted into gear, maybe look to putting the IAC=Idle Air Control on your suspect list, as its responsible for maintaining idle speed under changing engine loads. Let us know what you find in your new thread. To start a new thread go to the forum thread index page & click on the "New Thread" button located top left of the index page listing. This will open a new window for you to title your new thread, post info & receive answers.

 

Question;


In post #11, I click the link to the tutorial & only get black "x"'s where the photo should be?


Thanks,
NT

 

My tranny recently went out on me, no reverse, no forward gears what so ever. Do to my Finacial situation I am forced to work on it myself. I checked the fluid and it was clean, I also checked it about 10 minutes later after letting the car run and the fluid level didn't drop. I was told this is a pump issue. My question is:
A: are there any special tools I need to to do this job?
B: is there anything else I need to look at beyond the pump?

Any insight or advise is appreciated.
5r55e transmission automatic 4x4

 

Check the level with the engine off, then check it again the engine running, the level should drop with the engine running.


A: A pump tool will be needed if the pump is disassembled to get things lined up before its reassembled, you might find one that is complete and ready to install if you look around.


B: The only way to know if anything else needs attention is to go look. They do have many different failure spots other than the pump.


The converter hub will most likely be damaged as well from a pump failure.


.

 

Hello, Does anyone know if the bellhousing bolts are the same length on the 5r55e. Thanks

 

Ok. Thanks

 

My 2004 Ford Ranger Transmission slips, slams into gear, OD light flashes and I have had it rebuilt and re-looked at after the rebuild many times, 10 times or more... still end up with the same problem within a few weeks, every time...

 

I have a 03 explorer i bought from a friend, it has a very hard upshift from 2-3, this only happens on upshift everything is fine on the downshift. My friend had some work done on the tranny (not sure exactly what they did, i think they replaced a shift solenoid) and the problem is still there, he took it back and they said he probably needs a valve body so he opted out of the repair at the time. Is the valve body the issue here?

 

The flashing light means the computer has seen a problem with the transmission, so there is a code or codes stored in the computer. Find out what the codes are, this will help identify were the problem is.

Find a better shop...

 

Before writing this message I spent about 2 hrs reading this conversation in hope to find exactly my situation, but did not. So I hope the experts here will help me with some information.
Ranger 2003 xlt 2.3. Auto 5r55e, 100kmiles.
When I got this truck more than 6 years back it had 70kmiles on it, so I did full ATF flush then. Until last year it was used for short commute – not more 10miles daily, so I did not change atf since. Last year, though, I commuted about 50 miles daily and began noticing some issues, like light intermittent slippage, but I could live with it. Couple days ago when moving in start-stop traffic I heard some jerks when downshifting to 1st, then kind of thump – going from 2 (or from 3 skipping 2) to 1, and od/off started blinking. Over weekend I decided to use drain/fill to refresh some atf and take look inside of the pan. Unfortunately, I did not check DTC codes right on arriving home. When I tried recheck it later, the truck culled down and no light anymore. I could not find any particles, shavings in the pan, atf was pink and clear. This morning when I was driving to work I still could fill some jerks at slowing down, but no light this time, though I think it will come back sooner or later. So, I am asking for expert opinion- what could cause such issue when driving in start –stop traffic about 20-30 m/hour. No UpShift issues. No issues on high speed. OD work Ok when not blinking. TNX

 

A number of things could cause your symptoms. SO, come by the inexpensive ELM scantool running FORScan or the like software to the viewing device of your choice as discussed here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html & have it scan the tranny & engine controller/computers for trouble code clues & post All code Numbers. Consider starting your own new thread by clicking the "New Thread" button, upper left, atop the thread index page listing, so you receive replies just for your needs.

 

Sorry to bump but i just recently bought a 1996 ford ranger xlt 3.0 automatic 4x2. Engine was done and needed replacement so we did swap. I notice now that theres a long delay when shifting from park to drive. The engine moves and as i accelerate it slips and revs really high with no movement. Reverse 2, and 1 are fine, if i shift the car to 2 from park it shifts instantly it seems like its just drive thats affected. I've been shifting to 2 and then D to move the truck around and it seems to shift nicely once its starts moving, although sometimes its rough from 2 to 3. I've checked fluid, and lifted the car to inspect for leaks, at the moment the car is leaking from pan and its leaking from tailshaft housing. Would that fix that problem?


I've gone through this thread and alot of the pictures on the first page have expired, i dont want to spend alot of money since i just spent so much to get the engine running.. but it seems like i have no choice? Its a nice truck and its driveable from 2 to D. Again thanks in advance for the reply, this forum has so much info i glad i found it,