Hold on, did you ever get the tranny computer scanned for trouble codes???? If so, post up All code Numbers found, as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues.

 

Well I never did pull codes, I assumed (yeah I know) if the "OD off" light isn't flashing there is no code. But I can check tomorrow.

The symptoms are: when cold reverse does not engage at all. If I put it in L1 or L2 and stand on the brake while revving the engine for a bit I can finally get reverse to engage but it's pretty hard. Similar if I drive around the block and shift to reverse there will be a delay before it slams into reverse. Not an expert but it sounds like a pressure problem to me.

I'll try to get codes.

Thanks

 

If the foward gears are ok, the pump pressure is likely ok, so given your description, I'd maybe suspect a control problem, like a shift solenoid. So if the battery hasn't been disconnected since it last acted out with a lit OD light, there should be a code/s clues in the tranny controller/computer, but you'll need a scantool that can access that controller, like the ELM mentioned above, or a high end tranny shop or gararge scantool to extract the codes. Let us know what you find.

EDIT: What kind of shape was the tranny fluid in when you dropped the pan to do the valve body & what did the pan deposits look like????

 

So far, it drives just fine going forward, manually shifting to L2 and L1 give me engine braking as always. Just seems to be getting reverse to engage that is giving me the problems. Since the rebuilt valve body included all new solenoids and shows the same symptoms as the old valve body I'm not suspecting solenoid at this time. Although I won't rule out a wiring or connector problem, or a controller module problem.

Prior to swapping the valve body I replaced the reverse servo and seals, the fluid was red. When compared to new fluid the old fluid was slightly darker. Inside of pan was clean, hardly and deposits at all. I saw a small amount of dark sludge come off the magnet when I hosed it off with brake cleaner. Even cut open the filter, again some fine sediment/sludge but no bits of gasket, seals, or anything.

 

OK, with no trouble code clues, maybe put the TRS, its wiring, connector & linkages on your suspect list, as if its acting out, it might not be shifting the tranny into R completely.

 

I had a bit of time to check a few things, before heading over to the in-laws for the cookout.

I hooked up my autotap, no codes present but I'm not 100% sure it will read transmission codes. There is a transmission shop on my way home from work, if I get a chance to stop and check codes I'm also interested to see what they have to say about the operation.

I also checked tightness of the cable bracket under the steering column, went through the shift cable adjustment procedure. Also pulled off and reconnected the TRS wiring connector and the wiring connector on the side going to solenoid valves. connectors looked good. Also tried again when it is cold and reverse will engage, eventually. without going for a drive and warming things up it takes about 30-45 seconds for reverse to engage. Also noted I hear a faint "buzz" sound just before it clunks into reverse.

I'm curious what you mean by "it might not be shifting the tranny into R completely", and how the TRS fits into that? I assume you have the manual valave operated by the shifter cable, and the TRS feeds back to the controller to switch the solenoids.

 

If you have not taken the reverse Servo apart in all your endeavors you should have this is a common problem also the valve that controls it will cause the same problem shift repair kits address this valve. If you are sure it is none of this then you have a bad reverse band or the planer gear is dying.

 

Yes, reverse servo was replaced first, then the valvebody about two weeks after that. I'm planning to check wiring this weekend, possibly swap PCM. I don't expect it to be electrical, I think it would throw a code if it was, but you never know when you might get lucky.

Thanks

 

After years of fighting my problematic poorly rebuilt 5R55E, it finally half bit the big one at just 78,000 total miles. Burned out some clutches and locked the trans in forward gear. It still shifted 1-5, but reverse turned into neutral, and neutral turned into a second drive. Drove the truck like that for two months while I collected the parts for a manual transmission swap.

The manual transmission swap wasn't easy on a PATS equipped truck, but it was well worth it in the end. Total cost was probably $1300, which still beats the cost of an automatic transmission rebuild.

Goodbye 5R55E! It hasn't been fun.

 

Well I got a OBD2 ELM scan tool as you noted. It works fine but it did not pull any Codes.
Today I took the 2001 Ranger to a local transmission place. The place is not the cleanest place but they've been in business a long time. They placed the scanner on the truck & pulled code P0735-(Incorrect Fifth Gear Ratio) He stated that it said to check the solenoids & sensors & some other things. I also do believe the trans fluid is to full. For now I'm going to try replacing the transmission sensors & if that doesn't fix it. He said I could bring it in next week & he'll check the solenoids. At which time I'll have the fluid replaced along with the filter. Having just purchased this truck a month ago & it having only 69400 miles on it I bet the fluid has not ever been changed.

Any comments?

 

Hi, Truck shifted late and hard when first purchased used a couple years ago. Transmission performance has seriously deteriorated to the point where the engine light comes on and the overdrive light starts blinking. So I followed some advice here about just replacing the gaskets as advised. I took it to a trusty shop that will only do what you ask and had the pan and valve body gaskets changed along with the tranny fluid (around $360). The tech said that the tranny must have gotten really hot because he had a hard time scraping the old gaskets off. I had hoped that the work would have fixed it, but it didn't and its only getting worse. Both lights come on in about 20 minutes of normal driving and the tach begins to crawl upwards.

So.....Should I have the shop just replace the valve body and solenoids with new, or should they have to dig deeper and rejuvenate the whole case, bands, and gears? I ask because of the difference in $. would be from $600 to maybe $2500.
Thanks, Tim

 

There is no doubt you need to go through your transmission and replace the items that are bad. A shift kit should take care of the valve body. Use only a Ford gasket on the valve body the after markets may give you problems. Good luck!

 

I have a 2011 ranger with 79,000 miles, 90% highway mileage. Had to have the 5r55e transmission rebuild this week. started slipping from 3rd to 4th gear. I have only towed a 4x6 trailer twice.

 

Many folks will disagree with what I am going to say! MercronV came along somewhere around 2004 and is a very good product. None of the transmission oil change or repair shops use it as a rule. The MercronIV with a add in package is used because it is half the price problem is it doesn't measure up to MercronV. MercronV has a much higher temperature range than other's, better lube quality and as a whole and will hold up much longer. So it looks as if you use MercronV in your Ford auto transmission it will last longer.

 

I was trying to read the the Fordboy write up on replacing the valve body gasket on the 4r44e and the pictures are broken, is there another source for this information?