I am still not certain that the "valve body" gasket repair will fix my truck's transmission since engine braking still occurs in 1st gear. The TSB also mentions no second or third gear also, but my transmission still does have second and third gears. The only problem the transmission has at this point is that it lags when shifting from first to second.
RCWMTW,
I would really like to know if the "valve body" repair will cure your transmission's troubles as well since I haven't found an answer to the problems I am having with my transmission.
I guess I'll keep checking the transmission out and see if things change.
I will try to explain my problem in the greatest detail possible. I have a 97 mazda B4000 Approx 165k miles. I also have the 5R55E. I am not sure if the problems i am currently having with my transmission is due to a blow VBG. At times my tranny does not lockup, tripping P1744 code. I took it to a local transmission shop and he drove it while the problem was accuring. When he came bag from the "test drive" he said call him in a couple of days...... He needed to do some research. I know enough about how a transmission operates to understand why my tranny is shifting hard when it does not get lockup. The tech told me the computer was not telling it to lock up, but why would it trip that code? The pcm has to tell the TCC to engage in order for it to fail the test. But if what he says is true, i would only assume that the computer "thinks" there is a load on the engine, not allowing it to go into lockup. The tranny does go into OD, and it not always has the lockup problem. I tested the stall speed which is close to 2800 rpm, which tells me the clutches and plates are okay. I do not notice any slippage, the motor is strong. Any one out there in Ranger land have any ideas? And is this full line pressure engagment going to hurt the already tired tranny?
I did not get many replies or ideas to what my problem may be, lol i figured it got buried. I have also checked for manual engine breaking, which is good. Is there anyway to check my TC solenoid with out dropping the pan? Man i miss my brothers shop. The transmission shop basically told me they do not know what is wrong with it.
Does it only do it when driving in OD? My old GMC had the same problem with the TCC(torque converter control valve) which I found to be common. The bloody thing wears in its bore to the point where fluid bypasses it, pressurizing another portion of the valve body and tricks the computer into thinking there is clutch band slippage. To compensate, the computer cranks up the line pressure to maximum and hence the hard upshifts. I pull over to the side of the road, shut her down, count to 10, start her up and she goes down the road just fine. If I drive her in drive, no problem. Could'nt get a straight answer from the mechanic, but there was a kit to fix it.
Thank you for your replies. I have not tried to drive it w/o OD off, i have been watching the tach and listening to the exhaust for changes. I figured that the computer was "seeing" slipage and that is why the full line pressure to ensure engagement. I had never thought that it leaking by would cause it to think it is slipping. If I reset the CEL it will drive fine again for a bit. LOL i remember little over a year ago i kept throwing money at it to fix both banks being lean, to later find out i had both heads cracked. I figured going to a tranny shop would prevent me from doing it all over again. I will keep checking back here for more ideas. As soon as it gets a bit warmer i will pull the pan to check the Solenoids out. The funny thing is that it does it after it warms up and has run a bit. If i park it for a couple of hours it is fine again for around 20 miles or so.
dangit, there was a site where a guy showed how to check selenoids. ill try to find it tommorow and ill pm it to you
Matt
Here's a link to an article on testing tranny solenoids that I saved a while back. It's a good read, simple and straightforward (the specs for Ranger & Explorer trannies are on page 2 of the article):
The funny thing is that it does it after it warms up and has run a bit. If i park it for a couple of hours it is fine again for around 20 miles or so.
Exactly my problem. When she starts shifting hard, pull over, shut it down and wait 30 seconds then start her up again. If she shifts normally again, you've got her figured out. Like I said, try driving it out of OD and see if she does it.
Thank you for your input. Rockledge thank you for the link i saved it in favorites, now i just need to wait for the weather th shape up a bit. I had seen a couple of places that you can buy a reman valve body with new solenoids. Do you think I would be better off to buy one or just do the single solenoid. guess i will try to find the site again and see what all comes with it and if it has the TSB done to it. And again thank you all for your replies
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