Maybe you have a spark plug or wire problem producing a weak spark that blows out when the engine is loaded & thats causing a jerk that you think is tranny, or torque converter related, so maybe look there if that system hasn't been serviced in a while.

Might be a good idea to start a new thread just for your problem, so you'll likely get faster & better replies, as this one was just for blown valve body gasket diagnosis & repair.

 

The valve body gasket is bonded on the fix, so later models & I don't know when "later" applies, but surely an 07 would have it.

Along with not over using lower gears for engine braking, which puts lots of pessure build up on the tranny innards & regular maintenance with pan drops to change the tranny filter, maybe on the older trannies, also check the valve body fastner torque while the pan is off & perhaps keeping them properly torqued up would help gasket blow out on the older trannies.

But once the gasket is compromised, replacement with the boded gasket, is the answer.

 

I have a 2000 Mountaineer with the flashing OD and check engine lite. I pulled the code and P0720 was there. I replaced the sensor as well as the EPC solenoid. Everything was fine for 30 days and now the same code and same shifting problems are there. Is this a sign of the seperator/valve body gasket needing attention or have I missed something? Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

 

Hi,

I have a 98 SOHC with 236,000 miles which spent a lot of time towing my 7000lb boat. The torque converter came apart, sending metal everywhere. I took it all completely apart, including the valve body shuttle valves (except for the tcc valve). Besides for metal pieces everywhere, everything looked great. The clutches and bands still had the printed part numbers visible on the friction surfaces.

Anyway, I installed new clutches, front band, o rings and seals. Got it back together and there is no movement if you have it in drive. If you put it into 2nd or 1st, it engages. Also, you can then put it into drive, and it stays engaged. Reverse works well too. However, it will not shift out of 1st until you completely let off the throttle for about 3 seconds. Then it seems to skip 2nd and goes to 3rd. 4th works but there is no 5th. It seems that the overdrive is not engaging and that's why 2nd and 5th are missing. I did adjust the bands according to specs. I guess when I get back home, I'll check the front band and EPC pressure.

But what I don't understand is why at first nothing happens when in D until you go to 2/1 and then back to D? Oh and if I get 2nd selected, it still is getting going in 1st. My understanding is that when you select 2nd, you will actually will be in 3rd?



I have no codes yet.

Any suggestions on where I should look?

Thanks,

Max

 

Fixed it. Looked like I didn't have the L pin holding the right part of the forward modulator valve. Also reset the l pin for the inner limit valve. Runs well now!

 

I have a 95 explorer sport trac, auto. it only has reverse.. when you pull it down to 1st its in reverse again.. When it is in 2nd you can feel it want to move forward but it sounds like its lugging the motor.... Can someone help me??

 

Sounds like you may have a problem with your forward clutch. The rear band us applied for both r and 1st gear. In 1st and all other gears your forward clutch is also applied causing the forward movement. In 2nd the middle band is applied. Problem could be with the valve body, clutch apply piston, clutch discs themselves. Also the rear one way clutch could not be releasing. That would explain the bogging maybe.

Could be something completely different but I'd probably look at that first.

 

This is a great forum...and I'm hoping to find a solution here.

I've got a 2004 Explorer with 5R55S Transmission and I think I'm getting the 2-3 Flare. When I start it up there's no shifting issues until I drive for maybe 10-15 mins and then... I get the high rpms in shifting from 1st to 2nd and/or 2nd to 3rd. It's not wanting to downshift so I let off the gas until it finally shifts. And then when it does it's a hard shift. This is especially the case after taking the freeway a short distance.

I did the Valve Body gasket job (with an excellent Mercon V shower) that was posted early in this thread by Fordboy but I still have the flare issue. I'm now debating buying a solenoid pack, or looking into a valve body...or adjusting the bands. I'm trying to avoid too many trans fluid showers. Any suggestions?

By the way, downshifting to 1st gear does slow the vehicle.

Thanks!
Doug

 

................You know , after reading the last ten pages of this Thread , I'm not going too have any problem with paying $200 to get my 2008 Ranger 5 speed Auto , completely serviced at 20k miles !!! I was planning on waiting till 30k but NOT Anymore , No Sir , I'll plunk down that $200 and not bat an eye , lol ! , rb

 

Most likely the servo bores are worn in the case, just about every one I build for what ever failure it has the case is worn. I have to bore the case and install brass sleeves to save the case.

Unfortunately this cannot be done in the vehicle and the transmission has to be completely dissembled.

 

Doug,

Not sure how similar your 5R55S is to my '97 5R55E; however, the intermediate and overdrive bands were a piece of cake (academically) to adjust. Total job took me about 45 minutes simply because the adjusting studs were difficult to get to. Not saying it'll fix your problem, but heck, it's free and relatively easy!

 

1995 ford explorer with 180000 miles runs great but everytime i shift from park to reverse or reverse to drive the trans slams into gear also shifting funny sometimes very hard sometimes engine revs then shifts need and idea what it is trans fluid is fine and am due for another trans filter change want to fix while have pan off thanks

 

Hello, new here, not yet familiar with format. I have a 2000 Ranger with four cyl, and 4R55E trans. Forward works well, just has absolutely no reverse. Any advise on this problem would be much appreciated, I am disabled, on fixed income and can ill afford the price shops charge at this time. I have some experience with Gm auto's , Ford aod, c-4, c-6, but not these four speed electric auto's. Thanks.
darkrider56

 

I have a 05 Ranger Edge 4.0 Auto 4x4. 36,000 miles. My over drive light is flashing. I changed the fluid mercon 5. Light flashed again. Took it to Ford was told 3 and 2 gears are bad. Handed me my keys and never tried to sell me a thing and didn't charge me. I thought they were acting weird because they rushed me out. Any way. It is taking it's time shifting from a stop RPM's go way up and then it slips into gear.

Do I get it rebuilt or get a new or used one? I see some recommend a shift kit. I'm so mad thinking this should not have gone bad after 36000 miles.

 

How much will it cost me ?