Well, to update, the trans let go back in March. Had it rebuilt and it worked great until tonight....I have no 3rd gear. No indication prior that trouble was coming. No '2-3 flare', no hard shifts, all seemed well.
When it tries to shift into 3rd, it feels as if I downshifted to 1st, and the engine races upto 4000 rpm.
I have read how the trans operates, 2nd gear is actually 1st with overdrive. When 3rd is needed, the solenoid that controls the 'overdrive' drops out and then the 3rd gear solenoid takes over, then the 1st gear solenoid drops out.
This makes me think that the 3rd gear soleniod is to blame, but I have no flashing 'OD' light, no 'Service/Check Engine' light.
Does the lack of lights indicate there are no codes to be retrieved?
What would cause this 'no 3rd' problem to not trip a trouble code?
The fluid is fine, no burnt smell, and the level is fine.
Help.
Another update:
Had the guy who rebuilt the trans back in March take a look at it, he tried to adjust the bands, but said they were fine. He then pulled the pan and said he found the 'third gear spool' (???) was stuck.
A cleaning, new synthetic fluid, new filter and gasket, and the truck seems fine.
So we'll see.
(If anything else comes up, I'll start a new thread)
I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac 4X4 with the 5R55E tranny...150,000 miles.
First trans went out at 60K....covered by aftermarket warranty.
Second trans same thing at around 70K more miles.
2nd to 3rd flair and OD light flashing,usually on gentle acceleration-if your heavy on the throttle it shifts just fine.
Have read the forums about blown valve body gaskets, improper line pressure, Technical service bulletins, installing reman valve body, and Transgo shift kit to fix pressure problem.
Can anyone let me know what Ford has done to remedy this or what I actually need to do during my rebuild.
I have a 2005 edge. I was driving it on the freeway and it started to jump through the gears....leaving my foot on the pedal in one spot the RPM'S would jump and fall back down. then the o/d light began to flash and the things barley makes it out of 2nd.....before I go the mechanic.....does anybody know what this problem could be?
My 2001 2WD Ranger (3.0 engine, auto tranny) is having problems. When it makes its initial upshift from first to second, it shifts hard and at a high RPM. The overdrive light starts to blink. Whats wrong and how much will this cost??
My son's 2001 is having the same problem with the blinking over drive light. Any more details as to what might be the cause or what fix is needed?
I had a minor issue that I had repaird and the "mechanic" put the wrong fluid back in the tranny. This was the beginning of my transmission problems with the Ranger and I've had them for over a year now. The tranny wouldn't even shift into a drive gear so I finally had all the forward clutches, bands, plates and steels replaced. Now with it back on the road for a bit over a week I notice that it slips when shifting up from 2nd - 3rd. I can let off and almost not notice if I anticipate it or hear the surge in RPM's, lift off and it will drop in. Any of you tranny guys know if there's a SIMPLE fix for this last problem?
Hopefully it *is* the last problem and not a sign of something else major going bad. I've just about had it with this truck/ tranny.
Thanks for any assistance,
David.
2002 4WD 4.0L V6 Ranger. Auto.
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David.
99.5 PSD. CC, SB, 2WD. Batt box/ intake delete w 6637 & Pete's cover. NO catback (naked for now), DP with 40T 80E & 120R, ISSPro gauges, still waiting to be installed and 200amp alt. with 2 brand spanking new Duralast Gold tops.
Don't think so, it didn't do it before the initial problem, and it sure doesn't feel right. I am certain that's not the way *any* transmission is supposed to shift.
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David.
99.5 PSD. CC, SB, 2WD. Batt box/ intake delete w 6637 & Pete's cover. NO catback (naked for now), DP with 40T 80E & 120R, ISSPro gauges, still waiting to be installed and 200amp alt. with 2 brand spanking new Duralast Gold tops.
I don't know if the 2009 model is affected by these issues,
I do know that if it's not this issue, it will be some other issue, so stick around, keep up the scheduled maintanence to keep things from breaking, have Ford take a look at it once a year just to get caught up on the TSB's.
Wish I had a 2009, does having a 1999 and a 2001 add up to a 2009?
i have a '01 3.0 4 speed automatic 2wd. says"d" on door.about four days ago, right after the fist cold nite we had, trans was running fine until reaching operating temp.when up shifting from 2-3 it sticks in the middle of shift if load applied(like nueutral)if i let off throttle it will shift fine.the overdrive is acting up like not wanting to engage, or kicking back down when it should not.it has an on/off switch on gear selector,which leads me to think o/d has a separate elec solenoid .no lites on dash .fluid is smelling.the reverse always had a 3-4 second delay and was on a factory tsb as a defect years ago.it has 112k and i am thinking that if i r&r fluid &screen, truck will not go anywhere!(old school)i think i have a 4r44e or 4r55e.any one know difference or how to tell?do i have a valve body defect?it does not slip in any gear.all started 4-5 days ago.this truck has been nothing but problems.i had to replace the timing cover casting, because of leakage(warped)anyone i.d. my trans?
Sounds like your tranny fluid service has been neglicted, so maybe consider doing a pan drop, clean it & the magnet, change the tranny filter, refill the pan & continue on with a full tranny fluid pump out as outlined in the Tech Info thread, to get as much of the old fluid & deposits out as you can.
The pan drop, condition of the fluid, how clogged up the filter is & how heavy the pan depost load is, should give you an idea how heavy the sludge, gum & varnish load may be in the valve body, torque converter, cooler & lines & whether or not you want to opt for a detergent additive right now, or wait a while, to see if the new fluids detergents/dispersants can tidy things up engough to help the shifting. or if you have a mechanical problem.
Right now I'd guess it's a deposit problem, maybe a sludged up partially clogged tranny filter thats starving the pump, so you have low line pressure, along with gummed, varnished, or sludged up sticking solenoids & or valve body gunk mucking things up.
So if the pan deposits are heavey, you'll want to disolve, put into suspension & remove any internal tranny deposits slowly, like they were formed, so you don't break something large loose & clog something else important up.
Or I suppose it could be a valve body gasket problem, but the shift symptoms you posted don't sound like it.
Maybe start a new thread for your problem, so you'll get faster replys & more specific answers just for your case.
Some thoughts for pondering, let us know how it goes.
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99 Ranger 4dr 4x2 4.0L 5spd auto 3.55L/S Payload pkg2 tow pkg
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I have a 99 explorer with the 5r55e automatic transmission. Over the past year I have an intermittent problem where the o/d light starts flashing and it does not seem as though the torque converter is "locking up" and is happening more as time goes on. The only way to reset is to restart the engine. It does not matter if the tranny is cold or hot, or at city or hwy speeds. I have about 130K miles and have never replaced the tranny fluid, but the level is good. There are hundreds of posting, so I have not been able to get through them all; any suggestions.
Remove transmission pan, replace gasket and filter with Ford Parts only, refill pan to proper level with Mercon V, about $4.50 at Walmart. Don't forget to clean off the magnet in the pan and replace
I have been a Ford trans tech for 32 yrs-the 5R55E is notorious for the 2-3 flare but very fixable-delayed reverse is also common.
I usually find that SS-2 is leaking out the end------this delays the movement of the 2-3 shift valve--so-when the computer does not immediatly see a rpm drop when 3rd gear is commanded it thinks it did not shift and flags code PO733.
Another common problem is the bracket retaining the pressure control solenoid breaks and lets the solenoid back out partially.
High mileage vehicles are prone to valve body gaskets blowing out-usually particals/remains of the gasket can be found in the pan when this happens.
The pieces of blown gasket are commonly mistaken for band lining material.
For the delayed reverse you can remove the "reverse modulator valve" from the valve body and place a 7/32 steel ball in the end of the reverse modulator valve-BETWEEN THE VALVE AND SPRING-----the ball works as a shim to increase spring tension
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