My car currently shifts fine on gears 1 through 4 (Smooth with no flares). The car stays between 1500 - 2000 rpm when going up to 45-50 mph. Once over 45-50 mph the O/D light flashes and the engine has to go between 2500 and 3000 rpm to go 65 mph. Also when decelerating the transmission shifts a bit harder (I think this is because of the torque converter being locked). Once the car engine is off for a couple hours, the light is cleared and the DTC code is gone. When the O/D light is flashing, the DTC is "p0741 torque converter clutch circuit performance or stuck off".

When the issue first started, I could still get into overdrive, but I would have to purposely keep the rpms around 2000 at around 50 mph. I would then see the overdrive kick in (the car would shift and the rpms would drop down to 1500) and be able to accelerate to around 65-70 with the engine running a little over 2000 rpm.

My car is at 136,000 Miles.

Work Done:
- Changed fluid, filter and checked level (original fluid was in great condition, not burnt or brown (transmission fluid changed every 30,000 miles)) I am pretty sure the level is correct. The dipstick does not have full and empty, It has 2 holes and then is thatched after the second hole. When cold, the fluid is at the second hole and when hot it is in the middle of the thatched.

- Replaced valve body and all solenoids (All New [Did not want to rebuild])

- Replaced valve body wire harness (New)

- Replaced PCM and have most up to date software flashed. (New)

- Adjusted the overdrive and intermediate bands to spec

- Replaced torque converter (New)

Im lost... Any ideas?

 

Did you happen to notice the condition of the sealing ring on the end of the pump stator?

 

Luckily I saw and read the TSB on the pump seal issue before I replaced the torque converter so when I dropped the transmission to put in a new torque converter I inspected the pump seal and did not see any damage.

I also inspected the bands which also seemed to be ok.

This issue has really got me scratching my head...

 

Sealing ring, not the pump seal.

Its a small nylon ring on the end of the pump stator. The are known to wear.

 

Thanks a lot jk080! Unfortunately I did not check for that. Guess I will drop the transmission this weekend and inspect it (Hooray for private time in the garage away from the wifey and screaming kids.. haha). Anything else you think I should look for while it is dropped? I think I am going to inspect the servo pistons too to see if they need replacing while it's dropped because I do not think I am able to replace them if needed while the transmission is still in the car.

 

Team,

I just picked up a 98 explorer and the truck will not shift from first into 2nd. I have read the entire post ( I now have a headache ) and I'm not really sure of the direction I should take. The truck will engine brake while in first and it is dramatic. The bottom of the trans is covered with fluid and I have yet to even attemp to look at the VB.

any ideas before I start throwing parts at it?

Thank you in advance!

 

I ordered an inch pound torque wrench yesterday. The one they had at the autoparts stores was not in the proper range. I may try to tackle this project this weekend if it comes in by then (supersaver shipping). I picked up a filter ($32) and cork gasket ($19) from the dealer. Then went and got a filter that came with a rubber gasket from Autozone ($10). I think I will take back the parts to the dealer when I return any excess transmission fluid. I picked up 10 qts. and it sounds like I only need about 7, if I don't drain the torque converter.

 

Here goes, I have a question that I am trying to figure out by reading this thread. I am experiencing a shifting problem from 1<SUP>st</SUP> to 2<SUP>nd</SUP>, the truck is revving pretty high and then slipping into the next gear, other gears seem ok. I just drained the fluid and found no metal shaving or junk. Except this fancy little metal “puck” looking piece. I am going to try to post a picture, but it is like a hockey puck, except it is only about 1/16<SUP>th </SUP>inch or so wide and tall. I haven’t driven it far (10 miles) once the slipping started. Any ideas about what this is and what needs to be done would be appreciated. I was planning on putting in the new filter and fluid, but now am wondering if I should wait as I may need to do some of the other work I have been reading about on this thread.
01 sport trac, 4x4, 5r55e transmission (I think), 80,000 miles 4.0
Thanks for any help, I will be rereading this thread today to see what I have missed in it. Not sure on how to post the picture, so I just measured the puck is 1/8 inch round and 1/16 inch tall, just like a tiny metal hockey puck.

 

The first thing that comes to mind about the little puck is the small aluminum pucks that are embedded in the stock cork gasket, they are there to prevent the gasket from being crushed. They can fall out of the gasket when its removed.

As far as the problem goes it sounds like it might have a broken band or a valvebody gasket that has blown out.

 

Yes, thank you, the puck is out of the original gasket, I hadn't even looked at it until I read your post and now I see it is one of them that fell out when removed.

So at this point can I tell if there is an issue by looking easily or should I install filter, refill and drive?

I did not try the 1st gear "engine braking" and am thinking that is one of the next things to check.

I also read on another site that the star (T15) bolt in the ECP (?) solenoid could be tightened 1/4 turn to clean up shifting. I was going to do this, but noticed that when the bolt is turned the entire solenoid spins and is loose, is this normal or should that be tight?

Thanks again.

 

Thanks to all who have helped on this thread. I did the valve body plate and TSB, now shifting is back to normal or even better I think. Just some info, the plate from Ford is now 32$, the valve TSB thing is now 28, and the reverse servo gasket is 4.61. I would have ordered online, but I wanted the parts this morning and they could have them by 10 so I just ordered them there. Total cost with 14 quartes of fluid (changed twice) was still under 220, with a fancy new torque wrench. Thanks again.

 

My 1990 Ranger, 3.0L, XL, 4x2 has an 4R44E transmission. It has 141,000 miles on it. The previous owner used the truck to deliver light weight items around town. The town being Las Vegas NV. The previous owner put around an average 1500 miles a month on the truck. The previous owner had the truck serviced at the nearest "Quickie" Lube joint, the one starting with a "J" and ending with a "iffy". There was a record of the transmission being serviced by this dubious mechanic shop, (the one starting with a "J"). I called to check on how this service was done. The response was that the old fluid was sucked out of the transmission cooler line while the new fluid was pumped into the transmission. The fluid was not Mercon V, but had an "additive" added that resulted in the same as Mercon V. The transmission pan was not dropped and cleaned out during this "service".

Now I haven't had any problems or symptoms with this transmission in the 10,000 miles that I've driven it. So there's no issue to address here.

I did take the pan off and replaced the filter and cleaned the pan. The pan had a considerable amount of metallic sludge on the magnet and plenty of stuff floating around and coating the inside of the pan. The fluid was also black. I drained the fluid out thru the transmission cooling lines into a clean bucket. Upon draining the bucket into the AutoZone collection tank there was noticeable remains of black debris on the bottom of the bucket which had to be wiped out with paper towels. I was able to remove around 2.5 gallons judging from the 5 gallon bucket that I was using.

All in all, not a pretty sight. I'm hoping that I dodged a bullet with this fortunate decision to clean the pan and replace the filter. The Ford scheduled maintance doesn't mention changing the filter at all and recommends a fluid change only in severe service conditions. The 1999 Ranger service manual has an interval of 30,000 miles for filter and fluid change in "Special Operating Conditions" while in "Normal Maintenance" the interval is "Not required. Filled for life." IMO, that's funny.

I used a Ford filter and gasket for replacement parts, 75 dollars. I used Mercon V for replacement fluid, about 7.5 quarts, so it wasn't a full change. The Ford filter came with instructions to use the enclosed shorter bolt to replace the longer orginal bolt in certain year transmissions, 1995 to 1998, if I remember correctly. So there was that. The gasket was a separate item that was shipped in a plactic bag flat with a cardboard backer. It was cork with metal inserts close to the bolt holes. I installed it without sealant. The filter came with two new o-rings, one small one large.

So, should I be worried about the fluid not being a pure clean refill of Mercon V? Should I have this fluid pumped out and replace with all pure Mercon V? I've driven the truck 1,000 miles over the highway from Las Vegas to Butte with no problems so far.

 

That tranny sounds like it's seen some severe duty. If it were mine, I would pour a bottle of Auto-Rx in the tranny, drive 1000 miles, and then bring it somewhere to have a full fluid flush/exchange.

FWIW: What I do is buy my own ATF fluid (16 quarts of Castrol Mercon V - not cheap, I admit) and I instruct the tranny shop to use it instead of their house brand. This way I know for sure what's going in my Ranger's tranny. Because the cost of the fluid makes up so much of the total cost of the service, the shop only charges me $60 for the exchange. It all kinda comes out in the wash economically. But I have the extra POM knowing the correct fluid is being used.

 

I agree, with doing a full fluid pumpout, seeing as how the old fluids condition seemed to be in such bad shape & the 30% remaining will hasten the demise of the new fluid.

You were at 70% of a full tranny fluid pump out when you did this service, so maybe consider trying the Auto-Rx Rockledge suggested, to really tidy up the tranny innards & follow the routine I did here, for a "do-it-yourself", full tranny fluid pumpout, it's easy & not messy at all.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-pump-out.html

If you'll first disconnect the tranny return line at the cooler & with the vehicle level, the engine at warm idle, let the tranny pump empty the pan, Then raise the vehicle on stands to do the pan drop, you'll find it Much easier & less messy, as the pump has removed most of the tranny pans fluid.

If we first raise the front of the vehicle then have the tranny pump do the pan emptying, the pump can't remove as much, as with the vehicle level, so the pan drop is a little more messy this way.

More thoughts for consideration.

 

My 98 has a FEW miles on her and it slips when shifting into 3rd. Once in gear it is fine. Does anyone know of any adjustments to the bands or attempted a rebuild themselves. Thanks