Ok I've been reading up on all of this and here's my situation...
I had the hard shift/slipping between 2nd and 3rd? (roughly 30mph) but other than that initial slip everything was ok. I didn't have the money then to repair ir, so I drove it minimally as possible (I was laid off so it wasn't too hard)
Today, after leaving the local dunkin donuts, my reverse practically stopped working. It was slipping but barely moving. I put it into drive and same thing as reverse. I dropped it down to 2 and it drove fine. At 40 MPH i put it back into drive and still slipping. Engine revs high but barely accelerating. I then tried taking it OUT of overdrive (turning overdrive off) and it drove fine. On the highway when I reached 70, 75 I could turn the overdrive back on and be ok.
I stopped on the way home and changed the filter and fluid, to no avail. I did notice a couple pieces of what seemed to what everone is calling the valve body gasket (kinda like roofing felt). There were no metal shavings in the pan, but there was that gray metaalic sludge on the magnet. yes I did clean all of that off when I changed the filter.
Did I kill my transmission? How do I check/replace the bands? Where are the bands located? How many bands do I need? Is it even the bands at all? I am considering buying a remanufactured and tested valve body assembly with solenoids (EBAY $39.99) and the valve body gasket. If i need to replace the bands I want to have them on hand and do it all at once.
Any info or links to other sites would be greatly appreciated.
no, read my article and you will see. it is in this topic. The sep plate is the plate that divides the valve body and the oil gallaries that run the pressure to the different clutches / disks
okay I just swapped the valve body, I did have a blown upper gasket..
i put everything together, torued it all down according to the book, put in the mercon fluid, started it up and NOW in Neutral AND Reverse, the Explorer wants to drive forward!!!!
either the shift pin is not installed correctly (the little rod that i circled in my tutorial) or else the gasket didnt get properly aligned (not possible if you used a sep plate with a bonded gasket
how was the gasket installed? there should have been a gasket between the valve body and the sep plate, then between the sep plate and the body of the transmission
ok well, I checked it, and yep the pin wasn't lined up.. changed that.. fixed the "all forward" problem, but now it's the same thing as before i did the valve body swap. no reverse, can't drive unless I drop it down to 1, then use it like a manual trannie.. AND now it's running rough. The engine seems to have some sort of "vacuum leak" running sluggish especially when it's in gear..
I like the wipe the computer memory part, as it likely learned some bad things while acting out.
Do you have a CEL lit, if so pull & post ALL the trouble code numbers before pulling the B- battery cable to wipe the computers memory.
To have it relearn it's cold & warm idle speed, let the vehicle completely cool down, before restarting it.
Then without touching the throttle & with ALL electrical loads off, start it & after the idle speed drops some shift into ALL gears including R, long enough to feel them engage, ending in N or P.
Don't touch the throttle or turn anything on & let it fully warm up in N or P, then shift into ALL gears again.
Now that it's relearned it's cold & warm idle strategy, do some highway & stop & go driving & see how it goes.
Ford has a specific & rather complicated & long relearn driving cycle profile, but I've had good results just doing the cold/warm idle relearn part, then just diving it like I usually do, but then I don't drive with as much "Gusto" as Matt!!!! lol
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Okay, I went out to the exploder this morning and it ran fine, no bogging down of the engine when it is in gear. I got the codes and there was a P0720 (Output Speed Shaft Sensor) and P0174 (Too Lean Bank 2) I replaced the upstream O2 sensor on bank 2, and had disconnected the wiring harness to clear the O@ trouble, so that may have contributed to the engine running rough. Anyways Still no reverse or low gears when in drive. I did check the fluid and it's a bit low so I'm gonna add some more. I had read that it need 120psi for reverse. So I'll keep you posted, but thanks for your help guys, I really do appreciate it.
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