yep, lint free is good. newspaper works or else just blow everything off when done wiping. use brake cleaner or an air compresser. i think i used 3-4 cans on my rebuild
props on the vasealine idea, its what you use on trannies. i would suggest putting all of the bolts in before tightening down. make sure u follow my guide to the t! torque settings on the VB is a very very important factor
the bonded sep plate may not have the right holes in it so i would say no. there are some alignment "pins that you use to hold the gaskets in place. i suppose you could use the bolts.......
OK. I think the bolts will work. Coming to think of it I dont think its anything more precise than that.
Taking the old gasket off the valve body is a PITA. Its seems that its fused on there so I am breaking it off in little f*4%6$ pieces.
I also checked my solenoids and they all were within range.
I am getting harsh long shift times going from 2nd to 3rd and do not think it ever would get into OD.
Probably need to look at the bands too. The first time I changed ATF I did notice a couple small pieces of metal in the old fluid. I did use Mercon III and an Autozone filter. This time Mercon V and filter from Mazda.
We'll see how this goes and go from there.
Last resort would be to order a redone valve body from Rob in Oklahoma (Valvebodies rebuilt place) completely redone solenoids and everything for $229 + .ship.
Thanks so much for all the info. Would never have attempted this without.
ok, just noticed that the small little metal pieces I had referred to were off the gasket which has embedded little round metal pieces all around. The new one did not have any of these and the old one was too dirty and oily to see. So I do not think these came out of anywhere else. Will probably have this back together either today or tomorow.
This one is for Ford Boy. I've read the thread, and I've seen it a dozen times, but seriously, my problem is different. Once my 2002 Ranger Edge 4.0 is warm, it doesn't slip as bad. When I am towing, it doesn't slip at all. However, when the engine and tranny is cold, it slips fiercly from 2nd to 3rd. My engine braking is fine, so I don't beleive its the gasket issue. Any thoughts??My OD light does flash when this occurs.
Thank you to everyone, this thread is great and informative!
hrm. im absolutly completly a novice on transmissions. i actually found this fix elsewhere on the internet after a week of searching. I cant help you one bit. yours could be a bad selenoid. i have heard that the EPC goes bad after about 50k miles on many trucks. im not sure mine wasnt going bad when i sold my truck. even if they test out, it doesnt mean they are handling the pressures.
when your oil is cold, the pressures are pretty dang hi (if im thinking right) and it might be bypassing somewhere. i would start by replacing the epc and the 2-3 gear selenoids. i know im throwing parts at your problem. but thats all i can do
its posted further back in this topic. there is a picture showing it. its easily accessable with the pan off. i would do a filter and fluid change while i was in there.
Temperature was a factor in my blown gasket. I had engine braking in 1st gear when the transmission was cold. Within 10 minutes, I lost engine braking. I suspect higher fluid pressures in a cold engine were the culprit.
If your OD light is flashing, you have a transmission code set. Pull the codes and see what help they can provide.
For those people wondering how the 5R55E actually carries out the shift from 2nd to 3rd gear:
Quote:
Okay, let’s stop and look at what’s going on in the transmission.....in 1st gear, only shift solenoid 1 is energized, which applies the forward clutch. To shift into 2nd, rather than energizing solenoid 2, the computer energizes solenoid 3, applying the OD band. This actually overdrives 1st gear. Then, to shift into 3rd gear, the computer turns shift solenoid 3 off and solenoid 2 on...
So to shift into 3rd gear, the unit releases the OD band and applies the intermediate band. With that in mind, what could happen that would create a flare on the 2-3 shift? Unlike the 4R44E and 4R55E, the 5R55E applies the intermediate band for 3rd gear; not the direct clutch. At the same time, it releases the overdrive band. So if the OD band releases before the intermediate applies, you get a 2-3 flare. The flare is a timing issue; the intermediate band is applying too slowly. Source.
It's interesting that the 5R55E handles the 2-3 shift differently than the 4R55E. I'm not sure how that bears on the subject (i.e. whether or not the valve body is as often a problem on a 5R verses a 4R model). But it might explain why some people who have adjusted the bands on their 5R55E have experienced better shifting between 2nd and 3rd.
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