i was under the impression that the 4r55e and 5r55e were only in the 99 and newer trucks / expliders. i thought it was the a4ld was in the other trucks, a totally diff trans
i was under the impression that the 4r55e and 5r55e were only in the 99 and newer trucks / expliders. i thought it was the a4ld was in the other trucks, a totally diff trans
Matt
The 4R55E started out in '95 in the Ranger. The 5R55E debuted in '97.
I have a 2000 Explorer 4X4 4.0 SOHC with 5R55e trans. It has 75k miles on it and it slips when shifting from 2-3. Is this a symptom of the seperator plate valve body gasket problem. Has no other symptoms. No fault codes.
Thanks
Jim
I have 133000 and my Explorer od light starts flashing then the trans goes into limp mode I am going to try the valve body soleniod and new fluid I'll let you know
2000 ranger, hard downshift one day while pulling into the driveway. abs light went on o/d light was flashing and it would'nt go past 2nd gear. hooked it up to an OBDII code reader and read speed sensor. I fogot what the code was. I took it to the shop and the mechanic said the speed sensor was in the transmisson and it would cost $1100.00 to fix. No way. I limped back home, lokked for the speed sensor in the book and in small print read that 97 and newer models have the speed sensor and the abs sensor together and was mounted on the differential just above the driveshaft. One bolt to remove and $17.00 for the part. Problem solved.
2000 Ford ranger. Downshifted hard one day while pulling into the driveway. The ABS light went on, the O/D light was flashing and the truck would'nt go past second gear.
I took it to the shop where they hooked it up to an OBDII code reader. I forgot what the code was but it read as a bad speed sensor and they wanted 1100 bucks to fix.
I limped back home read the manual and found that the speed sensor and ABS sensor was one and that it was mounted on the outside of the differential just above the driveshaft. I unpluged it took out the one bolt holding it in and went down to Clark's auto and got a new one for 17 bucks. Problem solved.
2000 Ford ranger. Downshifted hard one day while pulling into the driveway. The ABS light went on, the O/D light was flashing and the truck would'nt go past second gear.
I took it to the shop where they hooked it up to an OBDII code reader. I forgot what the code was but it read as a bad speed sensor and they wanted 1100 bucks to fix.
I limped back home read the manual and found that the speed sensor and ABS sensor was one and that it was mounted on the outside of the differential just above the driveshaft. I unpluged it took out the one bolt holding it in and went down to Clark's auto and got a new one for 17 bucks. Problem solved.
Sounds like you took your truck to a very seedy auto repair shop. I'd spread the word around town if it were me.
Good to hear you fixed it. The ABS speed sensor on the rear pumpkin is indeed somewhat prone to failure.
Wife drove truck tonight and overdrive off light was flashing during most of her ride. Trans has been shifting like new and I had fluid changed at 60K.(Mileage at 100K)
Today I fixed parking brake light switch and alternator. Any possible connection?
From reading this post it looks like the value body and/or gasket problem. Does this problem just pop up with no warnings?
If I do the first gear test, if it is the value body problem,would truck continue as in neutral if this is bad?
__________________
The Only Dumb Question is the One You Didn't ask!
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95 Pontiac Bonneville SE 210K
99 Oldsmobile Silhouette 124K
00 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD 3.0 121K(Gone!! Sold )
06 Ford Taurus SLE 49K
Azu--I suppose the problem could pop up unexpectedly. If the gaskets hold and hold and then suddenly blow out, you could suddenly end up with symptoms.
As I understand it, the O/D light flashing is an indication that an OBDII code has been set. Pull the codes on it and see if that gives us any guidance.
If you put your truck in manual 1st gear, speed up a bit and then take your foot off the gas, engine braking should slow you down. If the tach just goes to idle and the truck continues ahead as if in neutral, it's a pretty good indication that the valve body gaskets may be the culprit.
I drove it last night for about 90 minutes with mixed driving and trans shifted flawlessly and no OD off light.
I did lst gear test and truck did slow down. Must have been a burp since computer is still relearning parameters since disconnecting battery during alternator replacement. I'll just keep an eye on it for now. Hopefully this was just an isolated incident for now.
__________________
The Only Dumb Question is the One You Didn't ask!
__________________________________________
95 Pontiac Bonneville SE 210K
99 Oldsmobile Silhouette 124K
00 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD 3.0 121K(Gone!! Sold )
06 Ford Taurus SLE 49K
My recent service failed to fix the problem. Ford pros replace 3 solenoid switches in a "prepack". Round 2 begins on Tuesday. Any suggestions when the code reader and the new parts are so far apart?
roberts46iy
getting ready to do the plate/gasket replacement ordeal on a 96 B-series 2wd.
Ford says plate is discontinued. Mazda has plate and gaskets so I will get them in tomorrow. For 96 the gaskets are separate and not bonded so I guess there is no choice there, right?
I have a couple questions. Should I clean the valve body from old fluid? and if so what would you use to clean? and of course i have to make sure that all the little springs and balls go back whre they were.
The gasket between the plate and valve is stuck on to the valve so in removing it comes off in little pieces. Once I get clear off all that the new one just lays on top and gets tightened with the torx screws right? no adhesive of any type. is this correct.
By the way this is an awesome post/forum on this subject.
i used brake parts cleaner, u can wash parts and then it evaps off. if u dont use bonded gaskets u need to buy the alignment tools because if the gaskets are a hair off they will block ports in the tranny.
I've done the TSB on two '97 transmissions. '97 and earlier separator plates are not available with bonded gaskets. Matt mentions an "alignment tool" if you don't have bonded gaskets. I didn't use an alignment tool but had no problem aligning both gaskets as I tightened down the separator plate. I liberally spread Vaseline on the mating surfaces and that held the gaskets in place nicely as I torqued down the cap head bolts. Other than the Vaseline, the gaskets are a dry fit.
I didn't bother cleaning out all the valve body nooks and crannies and don't see a reason to unless they are visibly dirty. After all, you're just going to dump transmission fluid right back into the valve body as soon as you start the truck. Be careful with the type of rag you use to clean the separator plate mating surfaces. I used one of those standard red garage rags and left lint all over everything. Paper towels didn't work very well, either.
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