If you have followed this thread you know I did the separator plate and related TSB. It fixed the first gear no manual braking issue and for a short time the shift flare. I have just now replaced the EPC solenoid and an initial test drive indicates it did not help the flare problem, although it does seem to run better. I did not attempt a band adjustment, if I recall l that requires dropping the valve body again and I don't know if I want to fool with that, not today anyway
I'm not sure whether to try a shift kit, a new valve body, or stop throwing good $ after bad and get it rebuilt or buy a rebuilt one off the shelf.
Anyone have an suggestions or gone through a similar process with this flare problem?
the reason i rebuilt my valve body is my ranger would not shift into third gear. i did everything in my driving style. i had a very severe flare and this fix fixed mine
...or this: 1-877-341-0266 Phone number of a company that rebuilds valve bodies, they can test and refit yours or sell you one right off the shelf with upgrades from Sonnax. Good price too. I ordered one and will post the results when I put it in
mine was recalled for the wrong tranny fluid about 4k from purchase and i'm starting to feel hard shifting between 1-2 from 2-1 is smooth but from 3 and on is smooth about 30k from the recall
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1984b ford f-150 3L I6 (sold for scrap )
2004 ford ranger xlt supercab 3.0L V6 (totled )
2006 ford ranger spt supercab 3.0L V6 (driving )
I had done the separator plate with bonded gasket fix and the tsb related to that, and had replaced the EPC solenoid but still had the 2/3 flare. I installed a rebuilt valve body with aftermarket shift kit upgrades and that finally fixed the problem. I did not adjust the bands but I have read sometimes that helps as well. See the phone number above for where I got my valve body, cheaper than buying the individual components such as an EPC solenoid, separator plate gasket, etc. The gasket that came with the valve body was not a bonded one, at least not on the transmission side, but I think they have dealt with the gasket blow out problem a different way, in the valve body. Owner was very knowledgeable and helpful. By the way, filter and pan gasket is a dealer item according to my local auto parts store. I also had a friend weld in a drain cock, sure makes the draining part easier. The plastic washer that is supposed to make the seal on the drain just didn't do the job. Wish I had known all the above when I started, hope it helps someone else.
I had done the separator plate with bonded gasket fix and the tsb related to that, and had replaced the EPC solenoid but still had the 2/3 flare. I installed a rebuilt valve body with aftermarket shift kit upgrades and that finally fixed the problem. I did not adjust the bands but I have read sometimes that helps as well. See the phone number above for where I got my valve body, cheaper than buying the individual components such as an EPC solenoid, separator plate gasket, etc. The gasket that came with the valve body was not a bonded one, at least not on the transmission side, but I think they have dealt with the gasket blow out problem a different way, in the valve body. Owner was very knowledgeable and helpful. By the way, filter and pan gasket is a dealer item according to my local auto parts store. I also had a friend weld in a drain cock, sure makes the draining part easier. The plastic washer that is supposed to make the seal on the drain just didn't do the job. Wish I had known all the above when I started, hope it helps someone else.
It's great feedback like this that helps others avoid the trial-and-error that you had to go through.
Glad to hear it's fixed, and thanks for the follow-up.
I have a friend that recently purchased a 2000 Ranger with the 4.0 V6/55EOD. In the cold months it seems to shift ok but now that it is getting warmer it is having a problem downshifting to low. When you approach a stop light it will downshift to second and stays there, even if you try to shift it with the shift lever. It then is in 2nd when you leave the light and seems to upshift ok. If you stop, turn the ignition off, then restart, it resets itself to low and will operate correctly for awhile. Any ideas what is causing this malfunction? Might be why the PO sold it.
I have a friend that recently purchased a 2000 Ranger with the 4.0 V6/55EOD. In the cold months it seems to shift ok but now that it is getting warmer it is having a problem downshifting to low. When you approach a stop light it will downshift to second and stays there, even if you try to shift it with the shift lever. It then is in 2nd when you leave the light and seems to upshift ok. If you stop, turn the ignition off, then restart, it resets itself to low and will operate correctly for awhile. Any ideas what is causing this malfunction? Might be why the PO sold it.
The 4R/5R trannies are pretty finicky when it comes to the right type of ATF. I would suggest a flush and refill with fresh Mercon V fluid. Not cheap, I realize, but it's the logical first step. After that, if the problem persists, then I'd say it's time to start thinking about the things that have been posted in this thread concerning valve body problems.
Another suggestion, while at the fluid change get a drain plug welded into your pan, or at least put in the plastic washer type. It is hard to drill a neat hole in aluminum and the plastic washer type is prone to leaks, that's why I got a friend to weld mine in
I have a dumb question. How do I know what transmission I have? What is the 5R55E? I have a 2003 Ranger XLT, automatic. I did have to have my rear main seal replaced. I was lucky it was still under warrenty at the time.
I have a dumb question. How do I know what transmission I have? What is the 5R55E? I have a 2003 Ranger XLT, automatic. I did have to have my rear main seal replaced. I was lucky it was still under warrenty at the time.
Thanks ,
Bruce
Pretty sure the 5R44E transmission is used in 2003 Rangers with 2.3L and 3.0L engines, and the 5R55E is for the 4.0L.
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I had done the separator plate with bonded gasket fix and the tsb related to that, and had replaced the EPC solenoid but still had the 2/3 flare. I installed a rebuilt valve body with aftermarket shift kit upgrades and that finally fixed the problem. I did not adjust the bands but I have read sometimes that helps as well. See the phone number above for where I got my valve body, cheaper than buying the individual components such as an EPC solenoid, separator plate gasket, etc. The gasket that came with the valve body was not a bonded one, at least not on the transmission side, but I think they have dealt with the gasket blow out problem a different way, in the valve body. Owner was very knowledgeable and helpful. By the way, filter and pan gasket is a dealer item according to my local auto parts store. I also had a friend weld in a drain cock, sure makes the draining part easier. The plastic washer that is supposed to make the seal on the drain just didn't do the job. Wish I had known all the above when I started, hope it helps someone else.
