Where to put the anti Seize?
#1
Where to put the anti Seize?
I have heard alot of dicussion about the 5.4 spark plug problem. First...Is it the plug? Second...Is it the engine? When I do change them???...Just exactly where do i put the antisieze??? My understanding is that I should put that on the threads??? Is that correct?
#6
Here, before someone gets hurt or screwed completely..
NOTE
ONCE THE SPARK PLUGS HAVE ALL BEEN
REMOVED, NEW PLUGS SHOULD BE
INSTALLED USING A FILM COATING OF
MOTORCRAFT HIGH TEMPERATURE NICKEL
ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT (XL-2) ON THE GROUND
ELECTRODE SHIELD OF THE NEW SPARK PLUG
(FIGURE 7). DO NOT COAT THE ELECTRODE
STRAP OR THE PLUG WILL MISFIRE. THE NEW CONDITION PLUGS SHOULD BE INSTALLED WITH
NO LUBRICANT ON THE THREADS AND TORQUED
TO SPECIFICATION, 25 LB-FT (34 N•m).
NOTE
ONCE THE SPARK PLUGS HAVE ALL BEEN
REMOVED, NEW PLUGS SHOULD BE
INSTALLED USING A FILM COATING OF
MOTORCRAFT HIGH TEMPERATURE NICKEL
ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT (XL-2) ON THE GROUND
ELECTRODE SHIELD OF THE NEW SPARK PLUG
(FIGURE 7). DO NOT COAT THE ELECTRODE
STRAP OR THE PLUG WILL MISFIRE. THE NEW CONDITION PLUGS SHOULD BE INSTALLED WITH
NO LUBRICANT ON THE THREADS AND TORQUED
TO SPECIFICATION, 25 LB-FT (34 N•m).
Last edited by HomerWinzlow; 02-27-2007 at 08:16 PM.
#7
Originally Posted by HomerWinzlow
Here, before someone gets hurt or screwed completely..
NOTE
ONCE THE SPARK PLUGS HAVE ALL BEEN
REMOVED, NEW PLUGS SHOULD BE
INSTALLED USING A FILM COATING OF
MOTORCRAFT HIGH TEMPERATURE NICKEL
ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT (XL-2) ON THE GROUND
ELECTRODE SHIELD OF THE NEW SPARK PLUG
(FIGURE 7). DO NOT COAT THE ELECTRODE
STRAP OR THE PLUG WILL MISFIRE. THE NEW CONDITION PLUGS SHOULD BE INSTALLED WITH
NO LUBRICANT ON THE THREADS AND TORQUED
TO SPECIFICATION, 25 LB-FT (34 N•m).
NOTE
ONCE THE SPARK PLUGS HAVE ALL BEEN
REMOVED, NEW PLUGS SHOULD BE
INSTALLED USING A FILM COATING OF
MOTORCRAFT HIGH TEMPERATURE NICKEL
ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT (XL-2) ON THE GROUND
ELECTRODE SHIELD OF THE NEW SPARK PLUG
(FIGURE 7). DO NOT COAT THE ELECTRODE
STRAP OR THE PLUG WILL MISFIRE. THE NEW CONDITION PLUGS SHOULD BE INSTALLED WITH
NO LUBRICANT ON THE THREADS AND TORQUED
TO SPECIFICATION, 25 LB-FT (34 N•m).
JL
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#8
Originally Posted by ReAX
So, just finger/hand tight? Just under 5ft lbs?
JL
#10
Originally Posted by Johnny Langton
There's a certain "feel" that you have to learn for it. Just using a torque wrench screws most guys because they just dial it to the spec,and grab the end of their torque wrench,and twist 'til it clicks. There's very little resolution on a torque wrench at low torque setting,and clicker style wrenches will damage the threads nearly every time when you try to use them at a torque spec that low.
JL
JL
Also, are the 2v plugs suposed to look like that?
#11
No they dont look like that. When I read the OP comment about hearing about the plug problem on the 5.4 I ASSumed he meant the new 3V 5.4. My appologies. I hadnt considered that all these years later someone just heard about the blown plug issue. I stand corrected.
However there is a large issue looming on the 3V plug problem that those whom it applies should know about. There is a TSB of several pages to show you how to replace the plugs without destroying your engine.
However there is a large issue looming on the 3V plug problem that those whom it applies should know about. There is a TSB of several pages to show you how to replace the plugs without destroying your engine.
#12
Originally Posted by ReAX
What if your torque wrench is digital and is accurate to 2% down to 5 foot pounds?
Also, are the 2v plugs suposed to look like that?
Also, are the 2v plugs suposed to look like that?
JL
#13
#14