I wanna remove the rust on one of our steel flatbeds. What would be better, a sandblaster, or a grinder w wire wheel? I own a 4" grinder, but could buy a larger one. Whats a decent sandblaster cost? Air supply wont be a problem

 

sandblasters warp metal, and will blow out weak spots. a large wire wheel/grinder will only clean the steel.

plus, sandblasters are VERY,VERY messy.

 

On the other hand a wire brush just seems to smear the rust around.

 

Especially if the bed was ever powdercoated.
I would use a sandblaster, from a little further back they don't cause any deformation, or at a lower pressure depending on the machine you are using.

 

if you are going to remove much rust you will want to rent the sand blast hopper, and the compressor on a trailer (very high cfm). If your job is small ( size of a wheel ) you can buy a $75 sifon feed unit and run it on your regular compressor, I have a little plastic one from sears.

 

Theres also "rust bullet" or por-15 look that one up....por is for paint over rust check them out...
Rod

 

Even with the coatings I like to blast the surface to get the rust off.

 

I use a wire wheel then flap disc to remove all the large scale surface rust. If looking for a nice job that lasts then follow with the sand blaster.

You could use Black Beauty (basically black slag), some like glass beads or walnut shells. A steel flatbed is probably 1/4" steel, I do not think you have to worry about overheating the metal with a sand blaster unless you try to use it to drill holes.

 

Wire brush the flaky stuff and pick at the stubborn spots with a screwdriver. If the metal doesn't end up being too thin, saturate it with "Ospho" or "POR-15" or other anti-rust primer-making substance.

Then prime and paint for a nice, lasting finish.

 

Use the sandblaster. If you keep your pressure down and use the right blast media warpage will not be a problem.

 

Recently used cheap 'pressure blaster' to floor pans, firewall, inner fenders, and various parts and accessories and found it worked well removing the rust. Used a soft, or mild media, and as mentioned, kept nozzle at reasonable distance. If should consider, may want to test beforehand for warpage, may not want to use on dash. Goes without saying, want to make sure weather will permit painting as soon as possible, using what ever products you found works best. As indicated by another member, it's messy with sand in every oriface in the human body, felt like an emery board for couple days. Also, would not suggest blasting in garage or enclosed structure unless don't mind walls, ceiling, storage cabinets, tool boxes, oh yea, and every surface imaginable with coat of media. Came across article using pressure blaster with sandblaster cabinet and it worked great. Found my cheap cabinet/blaster combo a little humorour, couple side effects. Anyhow, had an urge to add my $.02.

dave

 

Sandblaster. A wire wheel can't get into the rust pits, and wears down surprisingly quickly.

Consider using a sandblaster attachment for a pressure washer. There's no dust, and water is a more efficient medium than air, so it needs less Hp and fuel to get the job done.

 

I have seen these, and have considered them, but wouldn't the steel flash rust pretty quick, being wet like that?

I use a good, properly fitted respirator (NOT a dust mask!), with the appropriate filter cartridges, to help avoid any problems later on. This is especially critical when using sand, as silicosis is a quick killer, and even a mild bout with it will leave you laboring for breath for weeks.

 

Unless it's the thinnest gauge flatbed in history warpage with a sandblaster shouldn't be an issue. If you run a small blaster it's going to suck, if you run a big one with a ton of air you'll be in heaven and finished in no time.