how often does this re-occur? it happen to me in 05' and this link saved my ***. And it started up again in 09' but thanks Obama, I car pulled the summer of 10'. But now it summer 11' and right on queue the clutch is doing the same thing again. Should i replace the clutch now, or go get a six pack and pop off two shims?

either way I'm getting a six pack

Rob

 

Read this first,
SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap
then see if you need to adjust the gap again.

You might have something else wrong. But, of course, the same problem might have re-surfaced after five years of clutch wear.

Once you have no shims left to remove, it's new clutch assembly time. They're about $125 if someone doesn't try to steal from you. They come with a new coil, but I wouldn't bother with replacing it "just because".

Then break out the six-pack!

Pop

 

Thanks, I'm going to take a shot at it today. If this does nt work i'll get a new ac clutch.

thanks again.

Rob

 

I just wanted to register to say thanks for this thread. Worked perfectly for me and I've got a/c again!

 

This has to be one of the BEST finds ever of info from FTE! Really appreciate you taking the time to post with pics and part #'s the process!


biz

 

De-nada!

(Kalleefornian for "You're welcome".)

Pop

 

I've been a lurking member for quite a while and after trying "pop's" fix and after it fixing my problem, I decided to make a post.

AC would blow cool for 5 minutes and then blow warm air. First I tried to add refrigerant but this did not help, even though I was below specs..

Next I went outside, started my engine and looked at my compressor clutch and noticed it was not spinning,so after tapping it hard a few times it finally engaged...that convinced me the clutch was not holding like it should.

I then removed the 8mm bolt to remove shims as "pop" advised, however there were no shims left to remove and the clutch disk looked pretty worn.
Went and bought a AC compressor clutch kit for ~$100. spent the good part of the afternoon dismantling and then re-assembling the new clutch, pulley, and coil; all while working with the very limited space between the fan shroud and compressor...what a PIA! But it was all worth it in the end to not have to unbolt the compressor and evacuate and re-charge the whole system.

All in all I wanted to say thanks to springerpop and FTE for their dedication to helping others solve this common problem with an easy fix. I saved alot of cash and it probably would have never been diagnosed as being the culprit anyways.

I now have ice cold AC thanks to this site!

 

Yea, next time my air gap gets too wide I'll have to bite the bullet for a new assembly, too. I'm also down to "no shims at all".

And you sure are right about one thing: Not having to break open the system is a GOOD thing! Having to determine the proper amount of oil to add back and all......

Welcome to the group. Don't be a stranger!

Pop

 

Just did mine this evening. this did help! But no shims left there was only 1. Know I'm showing that I'm about 1 can Low. So to Advanced tommorrow I go! Its Very Humid here where I live. Last week it hit about 112 degree heat index. Gonna get close to it again this week. Thanks FTE.

 

Pop we are on 32 days over 100 degrees in a row here in TX (today is 109! Actual temp) I just removed the cluth plate and only had 1 shim so i REMOVED IT AND IT IS WORKING PERFECTLY. I told a body man friend of mine and he said ford sells a new clutch for 39 and a new compressor with the clutch is 239. Don't you have toevacuate to change the compressor/clutch or just the clutch itself? I have r12. Can I add more myself? Do I need to go to 132a?

Thanks for the thread, I really couldn't afford any repair money now but i did buy locktite blue

 

If it is working perfectly, don't add any refrigerant! You could make things worse if it got over-filled.

To change the compressor and clutch, yes, evacuation and complete re-charge is necessary.

To change just the clutch, no refrigerant escapes at all.

An R-12 system needs to go to a licensed A/C repair shop because the public can't get R-12 at all any more. Those shops get a HUGE amount of green for a pound of it, 'cause they aren't making it any more. Check prices before you agree to anything.

Getting the barrier-type hoses and converting isn't the easiest thing to do, as you really need to flush ALL the old oil out of the system with a special refrigerant solvent. The old oil and the new R-134 make a corrosive mixture that eats up the internals of the system. The oil for R-134 is special, and IS compatible with that refrigerant.

Sometimes it's just easier to have a little R-12 added, even if it IS pricey.

Pop

 

So by replacing the clutch only, will that solve the airgap issue or does it need to be repaired on the compressor side. I suppose in the future i could file down the spline. Would that work?

Jeff

 

I have a completely different problem. I have a 1999 F250 5.4L that has never blown really cool air. I bought it new in Feb '99 and as soon as it started warming up (not that long, I was living in Austin, TX) I took it back to the dealer to complain it was really not cold enough - the service guy stuck a thermometer in the vent and said it was in spec. I have always regretted not taking it for a second opinion.

Well, this year, it started to blow hot air intermittently when I have the A/C set to coldest on Max A/C. I thought it was the heater control valve for sure, but I have had one of those go out before and they are usually not intermittent.

I called the guy at the parts counter at a Ford dealer on the way to Dallas (was with the wife and kids going to Six Flags when this first occurred) and he said he sold about 10 to 1 blend door motors to heater valves.

Does anyone recognize these symptoms or can make any suggestions for further troubleshooting before I just start buying things and replacing them?

Rick

 

I just signed up thanks to SpringerPop.

I read your post about removing the shims on the ac clutch to close the gap, However I only had one shim. The reading was over .040. I took out the last shim and I now have a reading of .020. Question: is this to close? The clutch appear to be working fine.

 

It's fine for now. The recommended gap is .014-.030.