Pulled in to fuel up yesterday shut the truck down and when I got back in, and turned the key the dash all lit up, but there was no crank when I tried to start it. Here's what I've tried so far:

• Start in Park wiggling the shifter
• Start in N
• Checked the 50a fuse (starter under the hood)
• Replaced the starter relay solenoid (NAPA Brand)
• Replaced the ignition switch
• Checked the grounding between the solenoid and the fender
• Checked voltage to solenoid (relay terminal) in the key ON position and get about 5.5 volts
• Checked voltage to solenoid (relay terminal) in the key CRANK position and get about 11.5 volts
• Checked for continuity between solenoid studs and starter solenoid studs and have continuity



I was able to finally get it started after I crossed the solenoid with a screwdriver, so at least the truck is in the garage and not in a frying pan of a parking lot.

I don't have a scanner
Going out to check the wiring from the starter to the solenoid now.

Any other suggestions?

 

That happened to me. Do you get a "wait to start" light? I didn't and it was the stinking BD Diesel chip that was there when I bought it. Threw the chip away and it works great and no more random codes either.

 

Yep. got the wait to start light. I threw away my chip long ago

 

I had the tranny (4r100) replaced about 6 months ago. Any chance this could be the Neutral Safety Switch? Suggestions on how to test it?

 

UPDATE:
from my first post:
• Checked voltage to solenoid (relay terminal) in the key ON position and get about 5.5 volts

From what I am reading on the web is that I should not be getting a constant voltage reading here. It is constant even if the key is in the off position. I ended up pulling the 5A fuse in the #15 position and the voltage reading from the solenoid dropped to 0. This fuse controls the GEM, PCM, the ABS module, the brake shift interlock and speed control.

 

UDATE: #2
I replaced the Neutral Safety Switch for the hell of it. Still nothing

 

Replace the solenoid on the fender. That is most likely the culprit. Also check the plug/connection that pushes on for the wire that voltage goes to and “activates” the solenoid with key turn. It is possible that napa gave you a junk unit, I would go with oem

 

Thank you. I replaced the solenoid this morning (no luck), and I am getting around 11.5 volts to that wire when I turn the key to crank position. But I am also getting around 5 volts to it when the truck is completely shut down...

 

That thought did cross my mind...

 

So you can cross the 2 large terminals on the solenoid and it will crank/start. (Rules out starter)
You also have 11.5v to the small keyed start wire at the solenoid but no crank. (Rules out ignition switch, NSS)

This sounds like a bad solenoid to me.

Try crossing the large always hot post to the small keyed post. If it doesn’t crank then the solenoid is the likely culprit.

I can’t speak to the 5v you are seeing at rest.

 

Pull the range selector connector on the drives side of the transmission and check for corrosion and/or mud packed in the plug.

 

Ok I ended up replacing the solenoid with an oem and it started right up. So i took the NAPA solenoide back to the store and threw it through their plate glass window. Actually, I sheepishly returned it hoping they wouldn't give me grief since I didn't have the box. But vandalism did cross my mind.

 

good to hear you are back up and “starting” again

 

Crap the solenoid was bad out of the box? Yeah I'd be greatly annoyed too.

Glad you got it figured out and are back on the road!

 

Wow this is the exact same situation I'm in, all the way down to the new NAPA solenoid. Looks like I'll be getting an OEM one tomorrow.