How much lift and still be able to pull a 5th wheel?
#1
How much lift and still be able to pull a 5th wheel?
Good afternoon guys, first post and long time lurker here, not sure where this thread should go, so I’ll put where I guess it fits.
I’ve just bought a 2007 F350 Crew cab LWB DRW 4X4 6.0L Lariat, its replacing a 1994 F350 Crew cab 7.3 TD LWB <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comffice:smarttags" /><st1:stockticker>SRW</st1:stockticker> 4X4. My question is how much lift can I put under it if I pull a 1998 38 Foot Damon Challenger, 12,500 empty, 3 Axle 5<SUP>th</SUP> wheel that is sitting on 16” rims? The trailer sat perfect on my 1994, with approx 4” between the sides of the bed and the trailer overhang. I believe the 94 had a 4” block lift in the rear from the factory. I understand that I have some adjustment in the hitch, but I don’t want to crowd the sides of the bed.
The bumpers are going to be replaced adding 300 lbs to the front including winch and 100 lbs to the rear. It will also carry approx 300 lbs of tools and “stuff” in the flush mount tool box’s, a 85 lbs of headache rack, and a 15,000 lb 5<SUP>th</SUP> wheel hitch.
The reason for the lift, rims and tires in the first place is that the truck is a pipeline survey rig that will be earning its keep out in the dirt and mud, but still need to pull my 5<SUP>th</SUP> wheel. I’m thinking a 4” lift is all I’m going to be able to squeeze in.
</O
Thanks guys
I’ve just bought a 2007 F350 Crew cab LWB DRW 4X4 6.0L Lariat, its replacing a 1994 F350 Crew cab 7.3 TD LWB <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comffice:smarttags" /><st1:stockticker>SRW</st1:stockticker> 4X4. My question is how much lift can I put under it if I pull a 1998 38 Foot Damon Challenger, 12,500 empty, 3 Axle 5<SUP>th</SUP> wheel that is sitting on 16” rims? The trailer sat perfect on my 1994, with approx 4” between the sides of the bed and the trailer overhang. I believe the 94 had a 4” block lift in the rear from the factory. I understand that I have some adjustment in the hitch, but I don’t want to crowd the sides of the bed.
The bumpers are going to be replaced adding 300 lbs to the front including winch and 100 lbs to the rear. It will also carry approx 300 lbs of tools and “stuff” in the flush mount tool box’s, a 85 lbs of headache rack, and a 15,000 lb 5<SUP>th</SUP> wheel hitch.
The reason for the lift, rims and tires in the first place is that the truck is a pipeline survey rig that will be earning its keep out in the dirt and mud, but still need to pull my 5<SUP>th</SUP> wheel. I’m thinking a 4” lift is all I’m going to be able to squeeze in.
</O
Thanks guys
#2
You may want to hook your trailer up to the truck while it's in stock condition, then you'll see how the trailer rides and bed/trlr clearances are.
Since you will probably be towing the trailer off of paved roads, I think you'll want 6"+ clearance between the box and trlr.
You'll want the trlr to ride level so you don't overload the trlr axles (rear axles can overload easily with the front of the trlr just a couple of inches high.
I tow a 34' Alpenlite 5th.
All that being said, you may be able to lift the trailer thru spring hanger adjustment (jake plates) or if the axles are above the springs, putting new spring perches on the axles and putting the axles under the springs.
Since you will probably be towing the trailer off of paved roads, I think you'll want 6"+ clearance between the box and trlr.
You'll want the trlr to ride level so you don't overload the trlr axles (rear axles can overload easily with the front of the trlr just a couple of inches high.
I tow a 34' Alpenlite 5th.
All that being said, you may be able to lift the trailer thru spring hanger adjustment (jake plates) or if the axles are above the springs, putting new spring perches on the axles and putting the axles under the springs.
#3
Towing ability
I'm going to agree with cfmore. I know that with my set up I would not be able to put any lift on the truck. I have it set as low as I can to prevent bed contact and I wish that I could go about 1 to 2 inch's lower on the truck to keep the 5ver level. I've already dropped the hitch to the highest level and the hitch to the lowest level and still maintain some clearence. Its still not quite right. My only other option is to raise the 5ver with some spacer blocks or somthing else to get things level.
If you get too much tail weight on the 5ver it will affect the towing ability and stability quite a bit. Can be scary.
If you get too much tail weight on the 5ver it will affect the towing ability and stability quite a bit. Can be scary.
#4
#6
#7
If you really want to get gnarly - there are custom spring manufacturers that can make any springs you want for both the truck and the trailer.
They can be arched and stacked about as high as you want them to be.
QUESTION:
How high a center of gravity to you want to risk?
Yeah - the trailer needs to ride level to evenly distribute weight on its axles.
You might also consider adding shocks to the trailer suspension. So far I have only seen one trailer set up like that.
The pin box can also be adjusted up and down.
They can be arched and stacked about as high as you want them to be.
QUESTION:
How high a center of gravity to you want to risk?
Yeah - the trailer needs to ride level to evenly distribute weight on its axles.
You might also consider adding shocks to the trailer suspension. So far I have only seen one trailer set up like that.
The pin box can also be adjusted up and down.
Last edited by Greywolf; 02-25-2007 at 02:30 PM.
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#8
Wolf's dead on, as usual ! We must always remember whoever that smart guy was that said"For every action there's an equal and opposite reaction", or something like that. I wouldn't want to go much higher. You really have to pay attention after flipping the axles or raising it another way. See what it did to your center of gravity, braking level etc., before going very fast...Brian
#9
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