The Back window will not go up or down?
The key and the panel both will not operate the window
the two 30 amp fuses tested OK
I tested the motor it works great.
I have power to the black and light blue wire but not the black and white one?
Coult it be the tail gate closed switch?

 

I had I problem sorta like that one on my 93 it turned out that it has a connector under the rear bumper and it had corroded up, try finding it and cleaning it out, i think its white.


96 Bronco, Eddie Bauer, 351w, Auto

 

I had that problem, I always had to slam the gate to make the latch switch work. I replace the plastic striker bushings and all better.

 

My was do to a broken wire, dont know but it was the rubber seleve with all the wires

 

had a problem too, theres a mercury switch which was broke so the switches would not work because it thought the tailgate was down incase the window wont work with it down, so check that see if that works, if not check and trace back your wiring.

 

If the wiring is the same as my '92, there are only three places to break the window circuit. 1) the dashboard and key switches 2) the fuse and 3) the driver's side latch switch which is meant to keep the window from moving when the gate is down. If the driver's side latch does not fully engage on its post in the jamb or the latch is dirty or damaged the switch may not engage and keep the window from moving. There is a two wire grey connector that plugs into the switch inside the tailgate on the driver's side latch.

 

The switches may be in the LATCHES - these have to be looked at first if BOTH circuits are faulty.

The switch at the dash provides the GROUND for the window motor when the KEY switch is used, as they are GND on both side of the switch when in detent position.

The BLACK and WHT wire is the 12V source for the 2 position KEY switch. ALso look at the connector that should be behind the driver taillight assmbly. Its a good point to test for the 12V.

The two switches - the Dash and the Key have their OWN power source from 2 separate CBs (circuit breakers), not fuses.

IF both switches do not operate the window - chances are your latch switches are buggered or a wiring fault. You have to do a continuity check of all wiring.

Don't discount a bad motor.

I hope some of this helps.

 

 

My rear window in my '90 will only roll down, but not up. It was woking fine, and then quit going up. Anyone know what could be the cause? To roll it up, I had to run a wire to the battery, ground another, and touched them to the connector in the tailgate...

 

I had the same problem. Unfortunately I can't offer any other solution other than what I did - sell the 89 Bronco for 500 cash and change my phone number and move.

 

If the dashboard switch is shorting out inside itself, then neither the switch nor the tailgate key will work the window. I fixed my dashboard switch by taking it apart and bending the tabs. It was a while ago and I don't recall exactly how it goes, but I figured it out by looking at it. If in doubt, you can replace the switch. Also, the dashboard switch can be a source of the window going down but not up, or vice versa, if it is only shorting on the "up" side or the "down" side. Take it apart and you will see what I mean. You can keep it plugged in while it is apart to see how it operates, just don't short it across the leads or you will blow the fuse.

 

The dashboard switch is a toggle that toggles power to the window motor - One way to raise, the other way to Lower. When the switch is in REST position, it provides the GROUND path for the KEY switch in the tailgate, which also does the same thing as the DB switch, but the electric motor uses the GND path through the DB switch.

It sounds like the switch is broken or defunct. Change it, or jumper it to test it.

A VOM is a handy tool to do this and other tests.

hope this helps

 

Again, if you look inside the switch, you can see how it works. There are two sets of contact points (they look like ignition points). One set is for up, and one for down. The flexible copper that the points are on gets bent over time, and can cause symtoms like having to press real hard on the switch to get the window to move, or the dash switch working and not the tailgate switch, or only going up or down. If you look at how the switch works, you can bend the points back to their proper positions. I did this and have never had any trouble again from my switch. At first, I bent one of the sets to far, and shorted it across. It worked fine, but caused the tailgate switch not to work. So watch for this.