My F-150 is a 2007 with 10,000 miles on the odometer. TG it's still under warranty!!
I never could get the truck to act up at the service department of our Ford dealer so problem could not be diagnosed. Picked it up today after it having been there 2 days with no luck (this was the second time in less than 3 weeks that it's been there trying to get this issue resolved). We went out to eat & was heading home when I pulled up to a stop sign and it started shaking like an earthquake. 15 minutes till the shop closed so back I went. Service guy brought out his handy dandy laptop computer/diagnosic machine, plugged it in & said "by jove, I think I have it". It's the cam phaser. New word for me so he explained. Now I see I'm not the only one who's suffered through this issue.
The first time it happened I'd just gotten a full tank of gas & figured I had some bad gas. Got a bottle of injector cleaner & put in & it seemed to help but hadn't really (as we all know now!).
I am sure instead of helping the engine be more fuel effecient it's wasted more as I have had to keep the RPMs up above 900 when stopped in traffic to keep from getting my teeth jarred out!
Thanks for all the help....parts on order & will be getting repair done when they come in (hope there's no longer a 2 month wait!!).
Thanks for that info Steve. You just made my day. I have the wedge ($95 from SPX) and the phasers, but was unsure if the cams could stay. Now with my trusty vice grips I'm confident I can do this!
Originally Posted by Steve Bassen
Just got done talking with a friend of mine who's a Ford master tech who's done a bunch of these. He says:
Pop the valve cover
Mark everything (chain, phaser, camshaft)
Throw vice grips on the camshaft so you've got something to hold the cam in place with when you unbolt the phaser from it (to keep it from drastically shifting, and to help you line it back up when you bolt the new phaser in place)
Shove the timing wedge in good
Pull bolt and remove the phaser
Transfer mark to new phaser, bolt it up, torque specs, yadda yadda
No need to pull lash adjusters, line the motor up, pull the cam, or anything, "simply as hell".
He says I "might" be able to move enough stuff around on the passenger side to get the valve cover off, but if not, then I'm going to have to discharge the AC.
I'll try to take some good pics while doing this and make a good DIY writeup.
hey all, I have a ford 150, 2004, and the cam phaser broke. I have 60,000 miles and I drive to work and back. I was told there are pins on the phaser that just boke off. So, I wouldn't push the problem. They had a hell of a time figuring it out in the first place.......good luck
Well my 04' has been ticking quite loudly now for about 14k miles. It is VERY loud and sounds destructful. Started just before the warranty ran out. Truck now has 49K on it and is obviously out of warranty.
I know it's the cam phaser and was just wondering how this job went for those of you that did it yourself. I'm no mechanic but very mechanically inclined and have no hesitations about trying this stuff myself as long as i have good De-structions. How much does the phaser cost?
My truck also just started to get a weird shimmy in it. Almost like a wheel/tire is out-of-round or something. Anyone?
On another note I've never had my truck in the shop for anything and am wondering if there are any updates that should be done.
Just wanted to say what a wonderful site this is. I was just googling around for 5.4 triton engine knock and cam accross this site so I registered to see what advice I could get. After reading numorous post on the cam phaser, I came to the conclusion that is what is wrong with my 2004 f150 fx4 screw. I currently have 37k miles on and just a coupe of weeks ago started to notice all of the symptoms of the cam phaser knock. Starting my truck in the morning before work it sounds normal, by the time I get to my work, I hear the knocking sound in the cab (mainly on the passagner side) and have also noticed it starts to sound like a disel when I am in a drivethru. Anyways, called the ford dealership and they quoted me $1500 to replace both cam phasers. Well, I don't have that kind of money right now, so I guess my questions are, will it be allright to drive for awhile? Would it be allright to have just the one replaced and the other later? Is there a procedure anywhere on how to do change them out? A friend of mine has been a mechanic in a small shop for about 10yrs, he said he could probably do the replacement if we had a procedure, since he has never seen nothing like that come through his shop. If you have any advise please let me know.
I took my '05 in for a ticking noise and was told it was the phasers. Got them replaced (paid a $100 deductible) and the noise came back. Took it back in they've had it for two days; said they had a guy come in from Ford to look at it. Now they tell me it's the lash adjusters. And...since it is a different part/service they are charging me an Additional $100.
The service guy said that they must have backed off after I took it home. The noise was not there when I first fired it up but it got progressively louder and when I dropped it off it was as loud as when I took it in the first time.
Does this sound like a load of chit or what? I figure that as long as the covers are off and you're working on the engine because of valvetrain noise wouldn't you check the valve lash since the noise is nearly indistingushable from cam pahser noise?
I have a 2004 F 150 that is being repaired for the cam phaser issue. The Service Department told me that this issue is caused from using "Quick Lube" establishments and not Ford certified facilities. I was told that there are design differences in the various oil filters and that the Quick Lubes may use a sub-standard filter. The sub-standard filter will not allow the engine oil to flow completely to the far side of the engine resulting in cam phaser failure. If your vehicle is making this noise take it to the dealer quickly as this can result in having to replace the motor. I believe this to be true as there are three others that I know that have F150's; 2 make the same knock and one does not. The difference in the one truck is that it has only been serviced by Ford. This is a very expensive repair and I wish you luck.
My name is john, and i have just joined this forum. I have a 2004 f150 with the 5.4, the truck has 59,000 miles, and started this loud tick, then knock on the passenger side of the engine. After reading your forum inputs i think this is the problem. I took the truck to a auto parts store, and had them run the engine codes. The first was p1352, and 1537. the truck is at the ford dealer right now, waiting for there diagnostic results. Any imput would be greatly appreciated. Take care all
Guess it's my turn, I have a 2005 F150 5.4 Triton with the same issues, sounds great till it warms up then it has the engine knock, just started a couple weeks ago, sounds like a lifter.. also started throwing a message engine failure safeguard, after which you loose pedal response, engine shuts down and you coast to a stop, key off, key on and away you go for a couple days, local Ford dealer says throttle body, said engine noise is typical.. sounds like I'll be reading more about how to change out the cam phasers.. can anyone tell me how much they cost, any detailed teardown instructions would be appreciated... anyone having the throttlebody problem?
Wow! I thought I would finally jump on the bandwagon. My 2005 F-150 Crew begin to make the characteristic clatter around 75,000 miles. Usually after engine warm-up and at low rpm(like in a drive-thru or driving through parking lot). No noise at highway speeds. Had mechanical breakdown coverage through Geico and took it a dealership at 96,000. They said cam phazers on passenger side. $800 plus dollars and I am out $250 for the deductible. 20 mile drive home and the noise was back. Dealership says, replace phasers on other side but said it might fix it. They recommend replacing the heads also. Total cost was getting close to new engine but Geico opted for a used engine instead. Total engine replacement with used engine! Okay!!! Replacement engine makes more noise than the original engine. Dealer replaces cam phasers on both sides, got my truck back this evening and engine making the same noise. $6000 and still no fix!!! Don't know what the solution will be. The battle now seems to be between the insurance company and the engine supplier. The dealership doesn't won't to touch it now without someone else coming out to look at. I guess it is making them look bad too. Ford needs to seriously look at this!! I would strongly success that anyone who has the option of getting mechanical breakdown coverage to do it! The extra $5-10 dollars a month has been a life saver for me. $250 out of pocket for what looks like to be a least least an $8000 job.
ps-I had a 2004 crewcab with a 4.6 prior to upgrading to a Lariat and had no issues!
Replacing the heads was the next thing the service dept. was recommending for replacement if the new cam phazers did not work. The cost of replacing the heads and cam phazers were about half the price of a new engine. Ford said it would be better to replace the engine because there was not a guarantee that the phazers and heads would fix the problem.
It was an 100,000 extended warranty that is referred to as mechanical breakdown by Geico. It covers repairs minus the deductible. What started out as a simple repair has transformed into a landslide. Geico has been fair but it is frustrating that the problem can't be solved.
i did my own phasers,cams (i put hot rod racing cams in)
I have the ford wedge, YOU NEED if doing it yourself! I'm willing to rent/lend it out, save you 105-125.00
Might even be able to get you ford phasers at a better price!
phasers: cold start, no knocking
let motor get up to opertaing temp, bump throttle to higher rpm and let it come down, then it will knock,knock,knock,knock Phasers/phaser
lash adjusters and phasers do sound different!
You may need someone to bump throttle and you can listen to each side. they are in front,right under tappet covers,on each side.
OR you may choose to just do them both!
i will note: If you have some mechanical skills and patients... you can do it (lol,you can do it)
But the valve covers are a to get out!
Don't be rough,then you can possibly reuse your valve cover gasket! (reused mine with no leaks, Just be careful and pay attention) Because the valve covers JUST clear in the rear!
You usually need to disconnect your AC by fire wall,i have heard guys doing it by bending,but i'm always afraid of it just cracking and leaking.
Your suppose to unload the AC fluid into machine or Then it WILL need a machine to put vacuum into the line and fluid (usually local shop can do it,ALL will vary in price)! You will not be able to do it yourself,unless you have a special pump or you can suck start a harley!
You will need torque wrenches (i might rent/lend them out too) too save you more money! Don't even think there is a way around, there isn't. The bolt holding the phaser onto the cam, is a stretch bolt. Requires certain amount of ftlbs, to stretch and keep it from coming off in future!