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2004 - 2008 F150 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008 Ford F150's with 5.4 V8, 4.6 V8 or 4.2 V6 engine
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  #16  
Old 11-03-2008, 07:28 PM
Seasprite Seasprite is offline
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According to my Chilton's you are suppose to remove the exhaust rocker from the #1 cylinder and both intake rockers on #4 cylinder with the keyway on the crankshaft at 12 o'clock position. this should be just past TDC on cylinder #1.(passenger side head )
for the other side (drivers side ) rotate engine 180 degrees or the keyway at the 6 o'clock position remove the intake rockers from cylinder #5 and exhaust rocker from cylinder #8.
This is to prevent valve to piston contact
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  #17  
Old 11-21-2008, 08:30 PM
Steve Bassen Steve Bassen is offline
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Yeah, but I think that's only required if you're removing the camshaft itself, which it sounds like you don't have to do if you're just replacing the phaser. Can anyone clarify the procedure? I'm going under the assumption that you:

1) pull the valve cover
2) align the engine to TDC (for the passenger side head, or another value for the driver's side)
3) shove the timing wedge in
4) mark the timing chain link, phaser, and camshaft in relation to each other
5) remove the phaser bolt and remove the phaser
6) transfer the mark to the new one
7) install the new one in the same orientation as the old one
8) install the new bolt, torque to 30ftlbs, add a 90* turn
9) pull the timing wedge
10) install valve cover

Also, I heard somewhere that you have to discharge the AC and remove/move the condenser to get clearance for the passenger side valve cover to come off. Any clarification on that?

Thanks!
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  #18  
Old 11-22-2008, 09:18 PM
usmc161 usmc161 is offline
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I just had mine done at the dealership.....that cured the ticking noise. When the engine was apart the dealer took me over by the machanic and showed me this phazer thing. From what I could see, you don't have to remove the cam, you need that tool to hold the timing chain in place. the machanic made it sound easy with the right tools. I hope this helps...I really just wanted to know what the hell this thing does and will I need to replace it again in another 40k.
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  #19  
Old 11-23-2008, 07:35 AM
mswpj mswpj is offline
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mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech22_250k.wmv
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  #20  
Old 11-23-2008, 07:42 AM
mswpj mswpj is offline
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Here is the in vehicle procedure.

mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech17_250k.wmv
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  #21  
Old 11-23-2008, 07:43 AM
mswpj mswpj is offline
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I don't know if those links will work. Here is the site. Look at episode 22, and 17

Try this link: Automotive Technicians | Mechanics | Auto Techs | Auto Advice | Auto Tech Forums | Ford Techs | GM Techs | Chrysler Techs | Toyota Techs | Honda Techs | Nissan Techs | Volvo Techs | Land Rover Techs | Diesel Techs | BMW Techs | Volkswagen Techs | Lex
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  #22  
Old 11-23-2008, 07:46 AM
mswpj mswpj is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bassen View Post
Also, I heard somewhere that you have to discharge the AC and remove/move the condenser to get clearance for the passenger side valve cover to come off. Any clarification on that?

Thanks!
I read this in a Hayne's manual. It doesn't look as though the valve cover can be removed on the driver's side without moving an A/C line. Therefore you would have to discharge the A/C system.
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  #23  
Old 11-23-2008, 11:27 AM
Steve Bassen Steve Bassen is offline
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I've looked at those videos, but they include removing the camshaft, which some say you don't need to do...
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  #24  
Old 11-23-2008, 11:41 AM
Steve Bassen Steve Bassen is offline
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Just got done talking with a friend of mine who's a Ford master tech who's done a bunch of these. He says:

Pop the valve cover
Mark everything (chain, phaser, camshaft)
Throw vice grips on the camshaft so you've got something to hold the cam in place with when you unbolt the phaser from it (to keep it from drastically shifting, and to help you line it back up when you bolt the new phaser in place)
Shove the timing wedge in good
Pull bolt and remove the phaser
Transfer mark to new phaser, bolt it up, torque specs, yadda yadda
No need to pull lash adjusters, line the motor up, pull the cam, or anything, "simply as hell".

He says I "might" be able to move enough stuff around on the passenger side to get the valve cover off, but if not, then I'm going to have to discharge the AC.

I'll try to take some good pics while doing this and make a good DIY writeup.
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  #25  
Old 11-23-2008, 01:55 PM
kenwowski kenwowski is offline
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I am not sure if I have the same problem but I was under the hood today and I heard this like clicking/ticking noise...Is this the cam phasers? my truck is an 07' with not even 20k

Should I take it to the dealer? Is this something that will go out again in another 20k?

Thanks for any info
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  #26  
Old 11-23-2008, 02:05 PM
Steve Bassen Steve Bassen is offline
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A light clicking/ticking noise from the top of the engine is probably injectors and is considered normal. A bad cam phaser will sound like a diesel at warm idle only.
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  #27  
Old 11-23-2008, 02:43 PM
kenwowski kenwowski is offline
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it is a light ticking/clicking i hear when the engine is at idle regardless of temp

not to hijack the thread but one thing that I failed to mention was I noticed this after I took it to my local dealer for an oil change (I usually always do it myself)

Could the dealer have used the wrong oil? The guy didnt even put in the right amount....it was a quart low

I hope it is just normal injector noise

Thanks
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  #28  
Old 11-23-2008, 02:46 PM
Steve Bassen Steve Bassen is offline
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Check this video, it has the various different noises the 5.4L's make in it...
mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech22_250k.wmv
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  #29  
Old 11-23-2008, 03:29 PM
kenwowski kenwowski is offline
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wow thankyou so much this video described exactly the "injector" noise we heard with the hood up....i'm glad its normal

thanks again
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  #30  
Old 11-24-2008, 08:54 AM
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As long as you make plenty of reference marks, you should be fine. If the cam does move, you should be able to line it back up. I do not know of a cam lock tool for this engine.
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Old 11-24-2008, 08:54 AM
 
 
 
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