Turbocharging a Big Block Ford
#1
Turbocharging a Big Block Ford
Has anyone every turbocharged a BBF with an output around 550 Hp. If so i would like to know the setup that was used because i plan on replacing my 6.9L Diesel (IDI) with a turbocharged BBF with around 550 Hp. Any information at all about Turbocharging BBF would be very beneficial in my pursuit for power.
#3
#6
Thanks tiremine for the PM yeah i know about the prochargers. I would like know what are some common cubic inch motors that are well liked with turbo applications or just a common cubic inch that parts are readily available. I know that i am going to be putting all forged internals. (Got any other sites with good deals on engine internals) For a cam I don not think that i am going to custom make my own cam but rather buy a already ground turbo applicated cam. As for heads they will more than likely be alluminium. I know the importance of having the exhaust side flow roughly around 75% better than the intake side, so if you know of any heads that are made specifically for turbo applications that would be great. Last i am shoooting for a comression between 8.5 and 9.0. I have read that w/ a compression of 9.0 about 12 lbs of boost is the most before preignition (that is unless it is intercooled). I would greatly appreciate any more information you can give me.
#7
Originally Posted by turboman24
What is the difference in a Big Block Ford.
You're probably looking at the 460, so I'll leave it at that. But be aware that there is another completely different "Big Block Ford" around that has nothing in common with the 460.
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#9
Your not going to be able to run 9/1 cr with 12 lbs of boost without some kind of cooling whether it be intercooler or water/meth and put any timing in it.
Final Compression Ratio (FCR) = (Boost / 14.7) + 1) x CR
Boost = Maximum Boost
14.7 = Psi. at Sea Level
CR = Engine Static Compression Ratio
That would put you over 16/1 cr and imho thats too much for pump gas without cooling.
Hopefully Frederic will post up, he's the turbo man but forced induction is forced induction no matter how you do it.
Final Compression Ratio (FCR) = (Boost / 14.7) + 1) x CR
Boost = Maximum Boost
14.7 = Psi. at Sea Level
CR = Engine Static Compression Ratio
That would put you over 16/1 cr and imho thats too much for pump gas without cooling.
Hopefully Frederic will post up, he's the turbo man but forced induction is forced induction no matter how you do it.
#11
Originally Posted by turboman24
Which type of big block ford should i look for to build a turbo motor and how can i tell the difference between them?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_FE_engine
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_385_engine
There's also some others that you probably wouldn't (or shouldn't) consider:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Super_Duty_engine
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_MEL_engine
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Y-block_engine
Last edited by rusty70f100; 03-04-2007 at 01:47 PM.
#12
#13
Originally Posted by Bluegrass 7
Why go to all this hassle when you can get a 514 BBF already built that will put that kind of power out without doing any charging.
The cost will end up the same or less unless you just want to play.
The cost will end up the same or less unless you just want to play.
#14
Originally Posted by turboman24
As for heads they will more than likely be alluminium. I know the importance of having the exhaust side flow roughly around 75% better than the intake side, so if you know of any heads that are made specifically for turbo applications that would be great.
It's actually the opposite...........you want exhaust to flow aprox. 70% of intake.
Never heard of "heads specifically for turbos", but when I supercharged my BBC for my boat, I used Inconel exhaust valves for their ability to withstand tremendous heat.
During one mishap...a lean condition......I actually tulipped the valve in its seat. I believe a lesser valve would have come apart causing a ton of damage.
#15
Originally Posted by Bluegrass 7
Why go to all this hassle when you can get a 514 BBF already built that will put that kind of power out without doing any charging.
The cost will end up the same or less unless you just want to play.
The cost will end up the same or less unless you just want to play.
Keith Craft builds a 514 BBF stroker using race quality parts for about $12K but it produces 700hp/650 ft/lbs.
A 514 stroker "kit" on ebay is typically in the $2500-2900 range. Add to that all the machine work necessary to make it fit, plus the usual need for high-flow heads, carbs or custom EFI, and so on, you're getting up there in price anyway.
All to get in the 700HP range.
Or, you can buy a running 460 for less than $500 and redo the bearings and gaskets and fix anything terribly obvious (leaky seals and such) and have yourself a good, reliable engine, and fabricate turbo exhaust manifolds and add a pair of $700 T-04 turbos and be in the same ballpark as far as HP/Torque and spend significantly less.
There's the price issue. Of course one has to be able/willing to fabricate manifolds, build a carb bonnet (or customize the EFI of your choosing) and add a few other minor things but that's pretty much it.
There are several advantages of a smaller engine with turbochargers versus a huge engine that produces the same power naturally aspirated.
1. The smaller engine will give you better mileage when you're not romping on the throttle, because it's smaller. It will use less air/gas per rev than a much larger engine. And you don't need 650+ HP to cruise at 65 mph on the highway, even in a F350 crewcab like I have.
2. Engines only use about 15-20% of the heat generated by the exploding fuel. The rest of it goes into your cooling system and out your exhaust. Turbochargers by design utilize the force of the air leaving the engine that is created by heat and expansion, to spin the turbos, which in turn compresses the air going into the engine.
3. Turbocharged engines require a lower compression ratio than a naturally aspirated engine as a general rule, because you're pumping more "stuff" into the chambers and there are limitations as to the pressure that can exist in there after the ignition point. Lower compression means less emissions issues generally, so that's another bonus if you live in an area that checks emissions output.
4. Turbocharged engines built for the street can turn stock RPMs and for most engines this means you don't need exotic engine parts which costs money. In some cases bags and bags of money. For example, I built a 451 CID stroker out of a Mopar 400 "B" block, turned down a 440 "RB" crank to fit, and with a variety of other junkyard parts managed to build an 800 HP stroker for almost next to nothing. Stock parts = cheap. The dyno said the 75 pickup it was in produced 790-something at the rear wheels with somewhat wide slicks. Upon hard acceleration off the line, the truck either lifted the nose or left chards of parts from the transmission to the rear axle, all over the ground. The engine never turned more than 4500 RPM - it didn't need to - the power was "made" with the boost. 400+ CID with 30+ psi will hurt your neck. In a good way of course.
Anyway, circling around, my twin turbo 500cid homemade stroker will cost me about $3000 when done and easily produce more power than a purchased 514 BBF "long block" with a lower cost and ultimately, better mileage when not romping on the throttle - the best combination in my mind. Cheap to build, cheap to run, and no exotic parts. Just some oddball factory parts hunted down aggressively.