My 79 F-150 is being quite a bear. Why did Ford change out perfectly functional screws to rivets? - Oh sorry, off topic.

Anyway, I tried to remove the dash bezel to get to the instrument cluster and half of the screws were stripped. I ended up breaking the bezel, cutting off one of the screws, and prying off 2 other ones. Now, I am experiencing the same problem with the instrument cluster screws. But I would prefer not to break the instrument cluster if possible.

I already have an extra dash bezel to replace the busted one, but I need to locate new screws and fasteners (not sure what they are called). Also, should I start shopping for a new instrument cluster or can the existing one be removed safely?

If you need to know, my dash lights are out and part of the reason is that I've had a couple bulbs come off. I wanted to make sure the circuit board is okay. Another off-topic question: will the circuit board (or entire instrument cluster) from a 73 fit a 79?

 

Sounds like the tabs on the retainers are allowing the threads to do their job.

Try a really small pair of C clips pliers insetred into the philips heads slots and then turn and lightly pull.

Which ones (location) aren't coming out ?

 

The screws and spring nuts can be found in any wrecking yard. Most Ford Pickups, Cars, Broncos, and Econolines use the same type between the late 60's to around 1987. Should be really easy to get some. I always get a few every time I go to the wrecker.



Try to remove it in one piece if you can. Do not be surprised if it crumples and falls to bits though. Common problem is the plastic starts to decompose.

Good news is you can use the cluster out of an Econoline van. I believe that the 1978 to 1984 Econolines are a direct swap. While the others between 1975 to 1991 you will have to use your old printed circut on the newer cluster back. Try to get the cluster back with the number that starts with "E1TF". (not the printed circut, the actual white back that the printed circut bolts to.) Those are made of better plastic and are less likely to "rot".

That may be a hint of cluster rot.

The circut board is probably ok, but it will need to be cleaned.


No they will not swap. The printed circut is totally different for the 1973 and 1974, and the cluster back is missing several holes for lights that were introduced in later model years. You can modify a later cluster back to fit the 1973 if you use the printed circut, the connector and cover face of the 1973 cluster, but not the other way around.

Hop0e this helps...

 

You could always take a drill bit a little smaller than the head to drill the head of the screw off, take off what you need and then get the rest of the screw out. May end up drilling the rest of the screw out and ruining your clip, but its better to ruin a screw and clip than a cluster or bezel. I think that's why many bezels get busted out in the salvage yards because the screws get stripped or rusted and people just break the bezels to get them out. I found a nice wood grain bezel, no wear and tear, but it was busted in half laying on the seat. Looked exactly what you described, couldn't get the screws out so they busted it. Anyway, at least you have another bezel. If your cluster gets busted also, not to worry too much, they are a dime and a dozen in salvage yards and on ebay.

 

To answer Mil1ion's question about which ones - for the bezel, it doesn't really matter now because I've torn everything all to *, I doubt even the retainers are useful anymore. As far as the cluster, I was able to remove the top left screw, and the other 3 spin in place.

Originally for the bezel, I had tried a flat head screwdriver under the head of the screw to pull on it a little (to no avail) but I can see where the C-pliers would work better. I'll give that a shot.

About cluster rot - bummer. The front of the cluster looks pristine, just a couple marks on the plastic cover and a little fading on some of the orange meters.

Not looking forward to drilling out the screws (if the C-pliers don't work), but if that's what it takes to get the cluster out, then so be it. And I guess I'll be calling my local yards.

Thanks for the help.

 

Yes the cluster is basicly a two piece unit. The front gauge cover that you see through the lens has the turn signal and fasten belt and brake lights in it. This is bolted to the back portion of the cluster where the printed circut and gauges are attached. It's the back portion that rots, crumbles and turns into something like the consistency of dry laundry detergent. The front portion usually is unaffected.

Check around the "light holes" for this "crumbling" plastic rot. It may only be in it's early stages, and that's why the bulbs fell out etc...

 

Here are the two Ford updated part numbered cluster backs that Ford uses on F100/350 1975/79. The printed circuit is not included.

E1PZ-10848-A Instrument Cluster Back Plate-use with gauges

E1PZ-10848-B Instrument Cluster Back Plate-use with lights.

Even though the dash on the F Series trucks changed in 1980, the Econolines did not. E150/350's continued to use the same back plate for several years.

These plates may still be available from Ford.

Please note: I said updated part numbers, something Ford does frequently. I don't want anyone here having a hissy fit over the fact the numbers reflect a newer model than the years they replaced.

 

Just like to add that these are the ones made of the better plastic as well. The only difference between the "D5's" and the "E1's" is the plastic they are made of.

Also if you get these at the wrecker the engineering code on the back will either start with a E1PF or E1TF (I forget which now. ) An Engineering number is different than a Part number.

hope this helps...

 

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