I got the pads and calipers back on but the problem is I'm a little worried because the caliper doesn't seem to be seated like it was when I first took the wheel off. When I got my first look the pads were really low, so there was more room for the caliper to be seated. Between a new rotor and pads I can't get the caliper to slide over any farther (towards the truck). The outer pad is already against the rotor. I have included pictures. It seems to be seated securely. I can pull with all my force and it stays seated inside the beveled edges, and obviously it can only move so far in and out. Can anyone tell me if the way I currently have it (pictured) looks right...is it safe? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

did you back off the caliper inside plunger with a C-clamp? (sometimes helps to open the bleeder valve just a touch)

 

hit the brake pedal and see if the caliper recenters.

But just looking at it, something definitely doesn't seem right. It's almost like you have an outbaord pad inboard, but i don't think that that's possible.

Hit the pedal, if it straightens out, it straightens out. if not, post an "after" picture

Justin

 

yes u have them on right n the reason i know this is i just put a set on my 1980 ford f-150 n mine r the same as urs so yes they r correct.

 

Thank to everyone for the input. I know it looks a little off from what I used to as well, but the thing just won't move any deeper. Thanks BugsB1976 for resting my conscience. Last thing I want to do is get my brakes on wrong. I actually had to remove the calipers to back off the piston and get the bleeder valve to open. Just not enough room to get the necessary torque while it was attached. Whole caliper is pretty rusty and I'm too cheap to buy another. One other quick question, as you can see on the last picture, I have a tiny bit of slow leakage where the brake line attaches to the caliper. I have undone and redone the bolt a few times but still a tiny amount of fluid slowly seeps out (very minimal). I was considering putting a rubber washer in between the connection or maybe using some sort of RTV type sealant around the connection to keep it from coming out. Any suggestions on these ideas or perhaps a better solution?

 

If that was my truck, I would try the RTV first and see what it can do with this leak. If it fixes it, then problem solved for cheap. If not, then you can try something else. The rubber washer might work but is dicey if the thing was not made to work this way. Unless the surfaces surrounding the rubber washer are close to parallel, it is unlikely that the rubber washer will do the trick. I haven't had this problem so am just tossing an idea out there FWIW.

I had tranny fluid leaking from the fill hole of my T-18 4-spd. a couple of months ago. My son helped me change the old fluid out and refill it. The old fluid was pretty nasty... probably the original fluid. Anyway, the RTV on the fill hole plug threads did the job and the leak stopped. I understand that there is very little pressure on the tranny fluid, so fixing this leak was not difficult. The pressure in the brake system may make plugging the leak you have more difficult. I still think that it is worth a try, though.

Ed

 

they make a copper compression washer that is supposed to be installed there, that should stop the leak. personally, i add a copper gasket sealent to the copper washer first, it seals better in my opinion.

looking at the pictures, it shows that you still have the wedge pin in. not trying to imply anything, but i'm assuming you took the wedge pin out before you put the caliper back on? if not, that is your problem. i'd agree with srercrcr about clamping down the piston. put the old pad in there, and tighten the clamp slowly, it should compress. if it doesn't then you you need new calipers. they're really not all that expensive anyways. if that doesn't work, and you still can't get them centered, leave the wedge pin assembly out entirely, center it as well as possible, and then slowly pressure the brakes. having a partner helps. have them press the brakes while you align the caliper. should help out. let us know how its coming

 

That makes alot of sense about the copper washers. It sounds like they are once use type of item. I will have to get a couple new ones as well as a copper sealent.

In regards to the piston on the caliper, I was able to get it down all way. The outside pad is actually what is keeping the caliper from moving in any further (as seen in the second picture). My biggest concern was that it wasn't stable, even though I am not able to move it. I'm gonna bleed the line tomorrow or the next day and then I'll know what happens to the caliper when the pistons closes.

 

You don't need any sealant but you nee new washers! Go to ford and buy them. The ones you get from an autoparts store are 1/2 as thick and I have had them leak. Never had on OEM leak! I takes less torque to seal the OEMs!

 

Thanks to everyone for the help. I managed to get the extra parts I needed, bled the lines, and I once again have decent braking ablility.

 

Looking at the pictures it looks like the ouside pad is not correct. Can't compare it to any thing right now, but it seems like the outside pad should be scalloped to fit around the hub portion. Kind of a semi circular cut around the hub. Can you compare the pads that came off? Hope this is clear.

 

As mentioned earlier, C clamp that piston all the way in. If the piston is recessed all the way in, it HAS to be in correctly. Also make sure the inner walls on the caliper have not been "scored" by the old piston. Scoring will cause a leak.