AX do you experience any binding in the braids/springs when you open the door all the way before closing? I was told by some unremembered person that it happens with the spring type sometimes, and that you have to guide it in by hand partially to keep it from kinking. Are your braids different than the spring systems?

 

I put mine close to the inside edge to keep the operating arc as large as possible. I have opened the doors well > 100 times since I put them in without a single malfunction. The braids have a tubing core and are quite stiff, I doubt you could kink them.
They are not inexpensive but rate a highly recommended on the Chuck-o-meter.

 

AX,I am getting ready ( finally ) to do this. I bought the MF kit but they require 2 different size holes, so I bought the Autoloc set up. Can you give a a spot location or a pic of where you put yours. Mine require a 5/8" dia hole but I have not yet found a hole punch ( die) and the greenlee guys are gone. I may have to run down the Snap-on guy. I have stalled on this sine it appeared to me that they wond make a sharp enuf bend in the 56 door ..???
Thanks,
Jon

 

I used the autoloc ducts, I found them a bit small inside for all the wires I needed, so I put two in each door. The upper one is based on the original interior light switch hole, you can see the original hole just to the right of the VIN plate in the first pic in my "making changes" gallery. The second one can be seen in the first pic in my "console" gallery just below the VIN plate. Put them as far towards the interior side of the door you can for smooth operation. You can see both ducts installed on the pass side in the same pic. I Made the hole in the doorpost first, then transfered the location onto the door with a scribe inserted thru the kick panel area. I drilled mine with an Irwin Step bit in a right angle drill. Lacking a right angle drill I'd remove the door to drill it with the step bit. A step bit is the best thing for making truely round holes in sheet metal and a range of hole sizes can be made with the same bit. A twist drill will drill a ragged hole. The door switch hole is a little oversized and has notches so will need a little weld filling. After drilling I found there is a reinforcing plate inside the front of the door that also needs to be drilled for a grommet to pass the wires thru.
If you are putting the window switches in the door (mine will be in the console) and/or are not using remote door locks you probably won't need the second duct.

 

Jon I was trying to post a pic to Ax's gallery but I was too slow.

 

Thanks guys. If Tymnbux had Gracies console we would not be taking about this. Can't wait to see it finished. AX, this is a good chance for Gracie to become my desktop and we will send Waynes truck to screensaver status. I had thought about the lightswitch hole, but I guess the spot below the tag could work. I am looking at the "console" pic from the right side view and the lower conduit looks to be kinked with the door open, is it??
Thanks again to the both of you,

Sonwtimes the simplest things offer the most confusion and challenge..oh well.
Jon

 

Nope no kinks work real smooth.

 

So let it be done. I will do as soon as I get a warm day. Thanks again.
Jon