Hub Problem..Need a Fix...Try This!
#1
Hub Problem..Need a Fix...Try This!
After blowing hub after hub, on my 1999 F-250 (See gallery) I began to look for a fix. Not only can this inferior product by Ford be an annoyance, but also a danger to you and yours. Most recently, I was on the road at 12:30AM heading back home, and I felt a vibration in my front right axle. Being tired, and trying to get home, I pressed on. After about two miles, it felt as if something broke, and I practically lost my steering. I had to slowly proceed from the middle lane of the Interstate to the shoulder while next to a tractor trailer. Making it to the shoulder, I jumped out and ran around to the passenger side to see inside my wheel catch on fire. The only thing I had in my truck was a Dr. Pepper to extinguish the flame. It worked, and I called a tow truck which took 1.5 hours to get to me. Once he got to me, my front right tire was seized, and we had to force the truck by winch onto the wrecker. Thankful I was safe; in the morning I looked for a better alternative. This was going to be my fourth hub replacement.
I stumbled across a product by Dynatrac, an aftermarket supplier with a superb reputation for off-road products. It is called a FREE-SPIN HEAVY-DUTY FRONT HUB CONVERSION KIT. It includes new spindles, Warn Premium Hubs, 35 spline Axle shafts (Ford is 30 spline) and new races, bearings and seals. This is a one stop, reasonably priced remedy for the inferior FORD OEM hubs.
I found a distributor for them named KLM Performance and ended up talking to a guy named Kevin about this fix. Skeptical, he guaranteed me this would fix my problem. He knew the answers to all of my questions he assured me this replacement would save me from having future issues. Here is the link: http://www.klmperformance.com/dynatrac-hub-conversion-kits.htm After now spending about 4K for previous replacements and their associated damages, I pulled the trigger. His price was the best around and the shipping was extremely expeditious to minimize my down time. I had a local shop install them the next day. Yes, I spent a bit more to replace one "good" hub at the same time as my bad one, but in comparison to the OEM, you can feel and see the improvements Dynatrac has made.
Having such a good experience with Kevin and KLM Performance, I have since ordered a 2.5" Donahoe Racing Leveling Kit for my '08 F-350 and a pair of Fabfours bumpers. Check out their web site www.klmperformance.com they carry these and many other components for Ford and other types of trucks. Dealing with their real world experience, hands on advise and expert shipping and prices, I will always go to KLM Performance before I go elsewhere for quality aftermarket products. They hand pick their products for quality based off of their personal experiences in the off-road and racing world, they don't just pick products that would give them the best margins.
I just wanted to help educate those of you who might have had the same problems that I have had and who care about reducing your future maintenance costs while protecting your investment and those you care about. Trust me, give Kevin a call, I am confident he will lead you in the right direction. Feel free to ask me any questions.
Banksstroker
I stumbled across a product by Dynatrac, an aftermarket supplier with a superb reputation for off-road products. It is called a FREE-SPIN HEAVY-DUTY FRONT HUB CONVERSION KIT. It includes new spindles, Warn Premium Hubs, 35 spline Axle shafts (Ford is 30 spline) and new races, bearings and seals. This is a one stop, reasonably priced remedy for the inferior FORD OEM hubs.
I found a distributor for them named KLM Performance and ended up talking to a guy named Kevin about this fix. Skeptical, he guaranteed me this would fix my problem. He knew the answers to all of my questions he assured me this replacement would save me from having future issues. Here is the link: http://www.klmperformance.com/dynatrac-hub-conversion-kits.htm After now spending about 4K for previous replacements and their associated damages, I pulled the trigger. His price was the best around and the shipping was extremely expeditious to minimize my down time. I had a local shop install them the next day. Yes, I spent a bit more to replace one "good" hub at the same time as my bad one, but in comparison to the OEM, you can feel and see the improvements Dynatrac has made.
Having such a good experience with Kevin and KLM Performance, I have since ordered a 2.5" Donahoe Racing Leveling Kit for my '08 F-350 and a pair of Fabfours bumpers. Check out their web site www.klmperformance.com they carry these and many other components for Ford and other types of trucks. Dealing with their real world experience, hands on advise and expert shipping and prices, I will always go to KLM Performance before I go elsewhere for quality aftermarket products. They hand pick their products for quality based off of their personal experiences in the off-road and racing world, they don't just pick products that would give them the best margins.
I just wanted to help educate those of you who might have had the same problems that I have had and who care about reducing your future maintenance costs while protecting your investment and those you care about. Trust me, give Kevin a call, I am confident he will lead you in the right direction. Feel free to ask me any questions.
Banksstroker
Last edited by Banksstroker; 02-15-2007 at 07:13 PM.
#3
#5
I think Banks is reffering to the actual hub bearing as the cause of the seize.
Changing the 4x4 hub is a 15 minute job, allowing time for anger cool down between attempts :-) with screwdrivers and a 2 minute job with the proper tool for removing the clip ring.
It took me 1:45 to install my first hub bearing, from start to finish. The biggest problem is rust and build up on bolt threads. Make sure you get new studs with the bearing otherwise you will spend quite abit of time trying to get the 4 old studs out, provided you didn't smash them up trying to remove the bearing.
If there is no rust and you get new studs for the bearing you could conceivably have it done in 40 minutes or so. Ford designed a great design except for that whole nongreasable thing (DUH). Perhaps that's why they built it so removeable
Those Dynatrack replacements are on my wish list but so far down it probably will never happen. I researched them quite abit when my first hub bearing went out. It looks to be a fantastic replacement kit.
Changing the 4x4 hub is a 15 minute job, allowing time for anger cool down between attempts :-) with screwdrivers and a 2 minute job with the proper tool for removing the clip ring.
It took me 1:45 to install my first hub bearing, from start to finish. The biggest problem is rust and build up on bolt threads. Make sure you get new studs with the bearing otherwise you will spend quite abit of time trying to get the 4 old studs out, provided you didn't smash them up trying to remove the bearing.
If there is no rust and you get new studs for the bearing you could conceivably have it done in 40 minutes or so. Ford designed a great design except for that whole nongreasable thing (DUH). Perhaps that's why they built it so removeable
Those Dynatrack replacements are on my wish list but so far down it probably will never happen. I researched them quite abit when my first hub bearing went out. It looks to be a fantastic replacement kit.
#6
#7
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#8
I just finished the DynaTrac hub conversion two weeks ago...check out my posts here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...el-o-ring.html
I think this conversion is a must-do if you get off road much, and away from civilization...like in the outback of Baja California, like we do!
It was a no-brainier to install, and everything fit perfect. They give you spacers for the Disc Brake Calipers which were right-on!
If you get this kit, go to your Ford Parts Dept and get some new parts:
(2)Inboard seals for the axle shaft to axle housing.
(8) Hub mounding studs & (8) nuts - they're cheap so you wont have to re-use your old ones.
(2) U-joints for the axles.
Have someone with a good shop press, do the pressing of the new wheel studs into the new hubs - you don't want to screw up these parts!
Then, its just a matter of removing all the old stuff...
Pressing apart the U-joints and installing the new outer axle shaft from the new kit...
Install all the new goodies, greasing up the bearings, etc...
The new hub assemblies come all assembled with the ABS ring, seals, and bearing cups pre-installed...
The Warn hubs just go on as usual, except that you install two (2) of the large retainer rings, instead of one - DynaTrac's instructions remind you of this...make sure the second ring is completely installed and seated before bolting on the outer dial housings.
You'll also need to borrow or buy a 6-lug bearing retainer socket - most all common auto parts stores sell em'.
Try it, you'll like it!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...el-o-ring.html
I think this conversion is a must-do if you get off road much, and away from civilization...like in the outback of Baja California, like we do!
It was a no-brainier to install, and everything fit perfect. They give you spacers for the Disc Brake Calipers which were right-on!
If you get this kit, go to your Ford Parts Dept and get some new parts:
(2)Inboard seals for the axle shaft to axle housing.
(8) Hub mounding studs & (8) nuts - they're cheap so you wont have to re-use your old ones.
(2) U-joints for the axles.
Have someone with a good shop press, do the pressing of the new wheel studs into the new hubs - you don't want to screw up these parts!
Then, its just a matter of removing all the old stuff...
Pressing apart the U-joints and installing the new outer axle shaft from the new kit...
Install all the new goodies, greasing up the bearings, etc...
The new hub assemblies come all assembled with the ABS ring, seals, and bearing cups pre-installed...
The Warn hubs just go on as usual, except that you install two (2) of the large retainer rings, instead of one - DynaTrac's instructions remind you of this...make sure the second ring is completely installed and seated before bolting on the outer dial housings.
You'll also need to borrow or buy a 6-lug bearing retainer socket - most all common auto parts stores sell em'.
Try it, you'll like it!
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