does anyone know the direction of flow in the heater core on a 352? is it intake to core and than to pump?

 

From intake thru upper hose to radiator and from lower hose to water pump

 

thanks but that was not the question i asked. i know the flow thru the rad. i was asking about the heater core.

 

If you have the deluxe heater you will need an inline heater hot water control valve. It mounts on the right fender apron about midway. The heater hose from the intake manifold adapter goes to it, then continues to core. The return line goes to an adapter on the pump. The heater control valve is also where the heater temperature control cable attaches.

C3UZ-18495-A Valve, Heater Control (Motorcraft YG 133)

 

once again you striaghtened me out. thank you Bill. i was thinking about putting a restrictor in the return line on the heater core. kinda like when you would use a restrictor plate in place of a thermostat. just tring to get a tad more heat.thought if i kept the hot water in the core longer might get more heat. good theory what do you think? yes i have a 195 stat in the truck and the core is clear.

 

I'd go with a hotter stat myself. It use-ter-be pretty common to swap stats for the seasons.

Keep us posted if you do try the restrictor idea.

 

We dohn need no steenkeen Motorcraft heater valve. ;)

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/bypass.jpg

You want the heater on?
Get out, open the hood and turn on the heater, don't be so lazy. :/
Or just wear warm clothes and forget about the heater? ;)

Also shows my by-pass-hose... 5/8" inside automotive refrigeration hose. ;)

They've always out-lasted the water pump on my FE anyway but... a little does good, a little more does better? ;)

Alvin in AZ and got sunburned a few days ago, no kidding

 

What was I thinking? Sorry bout that. Maybe you can put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator maybe one third coverage to see if you can improve the heat. Easier that replacing thermostat.

 

tried card board. if you let it idle for awhile heats up nice and comfortable. once you start driving it gets cold.the rad looks like it should be in a bus. i know they didn't have the best heat from what i heard but its gotta be better than what i got. yes i do dress warm and i sealed up any air leaks i had.i also never seen a stat hotter than 195.i also run the same stat all year and the gauae never gets over 180 (yes it does work) even on the hottest days in the summer in traffic.

 

I swap stats in my 360 every november. 160 in summer months, 190 in winter. works well and hasen't damaged anything so far. Only takes about 5 min to do. Then again, I'm not a smart man.........

 

Sounds like a stat stuck open. New or old, I'd have that one replaced.

Last time I did the cardboard trick, I covered all but the top 6 inches of the radiator. It carried me to the next warm spell.

 

I like alvins idea.. now all you need is to tig weld a rod through the dash and put a waterhose valve on the pipe and a **** on the dash end hehehe instant control maybe some insulation in the cab to retain the heat being output ? Uncle used cardoard ina VW when he lived in Maryland... thing would cook your azz... I agree with Hypoid no matter what sizer the radiator is the thermo should do it's job and maintain temp. How old is the waterpump ? Level of mix in the radiator where it should be (full)?

 

the thermostat is new, water pump two years old. with the original thermostat temp gauge red 170ish on 90 deg day and on a 30 deg day. put thermomitor in rad reads 180 running a 195 stat also have a 6lb cap on rad. old stat or new stat temp never changes and i run the 195 year round. yes the htr core is not clogged and flows nice. anyway is been warm the last couple of days so i'll proberly just suck it up till it gets cold again.

 

You proved the gauge by measuring the temp in the radiator; good job! I think if you tried to stop and feel the hoses when the heater went cold, the thing would blow warm by the time you got the hood open. I had to refresh my memory on the mid '60s: The core sits low, the radiator sits high, you could lose a half gallon of coolant and not run the heater core or heads dry.

I noticed how the nipple for the heater sits higher than the sender and had this crazy idea: If the low pressure system allowed the coolant to boil in the core, the sender would not especially be affected, but the heater core might. So that's my wild guess. The low pressure system is letting the coolant boil when the engine is under load. Pressure test the cap? Max out the coolant ratio?

I'm still interested in the restricter idea, keep us posted.