I am getting her ready for the road this spring. I have a list of bulbs, gaskets and lens that I have to replace.. I still need to replace/repair wiring going back to the tail lights. But that will get done as soon as I get a day with the temp above freezing.

I am ordering a few parts and want to included this switch in the order if I need it. Running up to my local auto parts store does not work to well for me because it is 40 miles away.

Other then having good bulbs and wire (which would still not rule out the fuses which I have not looked at yet) how can I test the switch itself?
Is it a simple open/closed switch with power sitting on one leg waiting to close and pass the juice to the tail lights?

Help is appreciated.
Thanks.

 

i invested in a continuity tester. test fuses, switches and such.
i'm not 100% sure about the 60 brake light switch, but from my 67 mustang and ranchero, the spring metal piece hits the two contacts and completes the circuit which would trip lights.

i think i would hook tester to each prong and depress the spring and check the resistance.
should read 0 ohms. (you have continuity). maybe somebody else has done this?

 

Yep, I would ude my Radio Shack multi tester. By checking on the continuity setting, the beeper goes off it the contact is made. Everybody needs one of these. Jag

 

C0TZ-13A024-A Switch, Stoplight (Motorcraft SW 263)

These are cheap, buy one or more...you'll prolly need one sooner or later.

Turn Signal/Parklight/Brake Light Bulb: 1157

Dome Light: 1003

Instrument Cluster: 53, 1445, 1895

License lamp: 97

 

Excellent, I have the tools to complete the test.

Simple electronics (if it ever is simple).
Thanks for sharing what you have learned about these beauties.

 

Bill,

Those #'s are great info!!

Are they the same for a 56 F-100??

 

Not sure...my fleabay bought 1948/56 parts books haven't arrived yet.

Some prolly are...

Seller says shipped yesterday. When the books arrive, I'll list all the bulb numbers for 48/56.

 

Thanks

 

56 and up numbers shoud be the same, 48-55 will be different being 6volt

 

Test successful.
I pulled the wires off and metered it for continunity (open)
I had someone press the brake pedel, and the leads shorted.
Guess my switch is good after all.

 

When testing any switch check to make sure each contact doesn't show continuty to ground (surrounding metal). Switches may check ok from contact to contact but may be shorted internally to ground. Also in another article some switches have voltage through them but many only provide a ground through the switch. This is the safest way, if the switch breaks interrally the light will be on or off and don't blow a fuse. The best way is to check your wiring print. Many modern prints use the switch controlling the ground. God luck,chuck

 

Chuck gives some very good advise here. Leaking to ground is a good way to drain the battery, and it is hard to find.

 

If your tone signal continuity's battery is dead, or you don't have a pal around to press the brake, you can use a simple test light on the brake switch by propping a 2x4 cut to a size able to brace the brake pedal by wedging it against your seat frame. This will also allow you to walk to the back of your truck to inspect the rear bulbs to see if they are working.

 

Here's one that works better then the 2x4 (for me anyway).

My girls are into horses, so I have a broken lung whip available. It is a fiberglass rod approx 3.5' - 4' or so. I can jamb it into the brake pedel and back seat. With the flexability of the fiberglass, I don't need an exact length.

Also works good to check my fuel level since I haven't got that working yet either.

By the way, I have all my lights working except the turn signals as of now. I have replaced the flasher. I checked the fuse before (the taillight fuse was blown, but not the turn lamp fuse). I probably need to check the turn lamp fuse again.