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  #1  
Old 02-04-2007, 02:37 AM
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danny jones
Is this a good deal??

This guy sell "parts to convert to use WVO" on ebay, and along with my tank, and a good heater (what kind?? Racor??) do ya'll think this is a good deal?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WVO-S...85883692QQrdZ1
Or should I just stick with a $900 kit from a big WVO kit manufacturer? I don't make a whole lot...Thanks!
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Old 02-04-2007, 12:53 PM
ToddT ToddT is offline
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That specific Pollak valve is known to have even more troubles than the 6-port. And frankly, most folks have gotten away from using them. If you are going to use the stock fuel pump and fuel filter, I suggest going with two 3-port solenoid valves rather than a Pollak. You can get them from Greasecar, Frybrid, Plantdrive or Enviofuel.

These 3-port solenoids are designed for heated fuel applications. Also, if there is a failure in the system it will default to diesel. The 6-port Pollak is actually a motorized valve. I had one fail in the "grease" mode. Not good.

I recall hearing that the chrome body 3-port Pollak valve you posted about is a true solenoid, not a motorized valve. In either case, I remember lots of negative reports on these a few years ago.

Todd
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Old 02-04-2007, 12:56 PM
willbd willbd is offline
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Mongo75,
You are converting a 99 PSD you will need a 6 way fuel valve. The kit he as is a 3 way.

My system is a combo of a kit and added parts. Just rember you can never add to much heat to the WVO.
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Old 02-04-2007, 12:56 PM
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Your signature line indicates you have a lot of stuff added to your truck. If you did all this yourself, I trust you are fairly handy. I wasted hundreds of dollars buying a kit. Why buy a kit? For access to tech support.

Frankly, the folks on this and other forums provided better tech support. And that was over two years ago when this market was even more experimental.

If you want to save some time and have somebody to call with questions... by all means buy a kit.

Todd
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Old 02-04-2007, 01:06 PM
willbd willbd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddT
Your signature line indicates you have a lot of stuff added to your truck. If you did all this yourself, I trust you are fairly handy. I wasted hundreds of dollars buying a kit. Why buy a kit? For access to tech support.

Frankly, the folks on this and other forums provided better tech support. And that was over two years ago when this market was even more experimental.

If you want to save some time and have somebody to call with questions... by all means buy a kit.

Todd
Todd,
Yes I have added all but the bed to my truck. I need to update the signature line....

You are correct about the forums and better information. I bought my kit off of Craig’s list for $600. It was a good starting point and added to the WVO system from the stock kit.
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Old 02-04-2007, 01:42 PM
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danny jones
Todd- (I think he was mentioning me willbd lol) I actually bought the truck with the gauges, intake and exhaust, but I've rebuilt a 350 and a 390, and am a airframes and hydraulics mech on Hueys and Cobras. I'd consider myself very mechanically proficient. I just want to make sure I use the right stuff so I don't give the wife a reason to say "I told you so". I hate that!! So far I've decided to go with a Hot Fox pickup, and then a heated oil filter, I guess that's enough heat. I'm assuming the filter goes between the tank and the lift pump. I believe I can just use a solenoid 3 way valve at the suction end of the lift pump? Why would a 6 port even be used, or why would I need two 3 port valves? I thought that a single three way would be fine, I'd just have to drive about 5 miles to purge the lines good. Please advise, cause I want to get rolling on saving money!!
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Old 02-05-2007, 07:45 AM
ToddT ToddT is offline
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Dude, with your background I have a feeling you'll be teaching us stuff in a month! Seriously, I suggest you check out the Vegistroke (www.vegistroke.com) design. If you can swing the bucks... that's the way I'd go. I just don't have that kind of budget so I'm building my own version.

As for the "I told you so" that's going to happen anyway. Even the 'store bought' kits are not without teething problems. Your attention to detail as an airframe and hydraulics guy will put you way ahead of most of us.

I'm a pilot, not a mechanic. If you are like me, you like instrumentation. I suggest temperature sending units at different points of your system so you can monitor the heating with accuracy. Heating is the most critical point. I also have vacuum/pressure gauges at different points to indicate filter clogging.

The hotfox and heated filter are great starts but I really feel you'll need more. I just bought a really nice 12v filter heater from Vegistroke that is reported to get the fuel over 200 degrees. Check that one out.

But, I also suggest going with a hose on hose arrangement in order to maintain the heat along the fuel path. I use 3/4" heater hose, 1/2" fuel supply and 3/8" fuel return hoses. All of this is bundled together and wrapped with pipe insulation.

Our fuel systems send way more fuel to the engine than is needed. The factory fuel setup sends about 90% of the fuel back to the tank. Therefore, two 3-ports are needed... one for supply and one for return. This is true if you use the stock fuel pump. Again... in my opinion the factory fuel pump is a weak link. That's why I'm going with the Vegistroke style dual fuel pump arrangement.

I'm going to place the fuel filter after the pump. However, I have used a standard oil filter before the pump just to protect it. That will give 30 micron protection, plenty for a gear style pump.

In your work with hydraulics, do you have any suggestions for a 12v gear pump that can handle 30gph and 70psi?

Welcome to the community. I trust you will have much to offer.

Todd
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Old 02-06-2007, 12:01 AM
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danny jones
OH, I see- I didn't think the PSD had a fuel return line. So that's why you need two three way valves. Jeez, kind of a PITA, but it can be done. When you splice into the fuel lines, are they steel, or some kinda rubber?
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Old 02-06-2007, 06:01 AM
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The fuel pump is mounted on the driver's side frame rail. The discharge side uses hard plumbing (tubing) and a special connection fitting. Go ahead and pick up one of the 'fuel line removal tools' at the auto parts store. Its something like $12.... essentially a scissor type device that spreads out the insides of a fitting. That is on the output side of the fuel pump.

The fuel line between the tank and the fuel pump is rubber hose and tubing. I cut into the tubing just prior to the fuel pump.

The fuel return line is the same way... mostly tubing with some hose. Placement of your solenoid valves will determine which you splice into.

Todd
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Old 02-06-2007, 09:48 PM
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danny jones
I think I'll take the easy route and cut into the hose. I have a hobby shop on base where we can use a lift for $5 and hr, or a stall for $6 a day, with any and all the tools you'd ever need. I'm thinking I could do it there, but they're only open to about 7pm, so maybe I should save it for a weekend at home....
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Old 02-06-2007, 09:51 PM
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Oh one more thing- I want to use the Pollack valve for ease of installation, and one less thing to go wrong. Plus once it moves, that's it- no solenoid to burn out from constant use. Any cons on using this?
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Old 02-06-2007, 10:53 PM
ToddT ToddT is offline
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I've heard mixed views on the Pollak 6 port. Mine never failed though I ended up going with two 3-port valves. One thing... you have much more flexibility in running your hoses with two 3-ports than trying to get six hoses coming in and out of one place. The hoses into and out of the 6-port was tough going. You're fortunate to have a lift so it won't be so bad.

The 6-port should serve you just fine. Two 3-ports is just an option.

Todd
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Old 02-06-2007, 10:53 PM
 
 
 
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