Hi guys, was reading about guages around here and wondered about the pre-turbo install.... how do you prevent chips of metal from getting into the manifold when you drill it for the pyro mount? I am planning to do the guage thing soon and was really wondering what was up?
Dave
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2012 F-150 Supercrew EB, XTR trailer tow and locking 373 diff, etc. Had a 2002 Excursion, 7.3l, Limited, Dark Blue/Tan, 6637... RIP
Start with small bits and work your war up to the right size, most of the shavings will end up in you face as gravity is helping you. When you are finished drilling tak a "magnet on a stick" and stick in the hole to get the bigger stuff. When you crank all of the little stuff will be blown out the exhaust before the turbo has a chance to spin up good and wont hurt anything.
Guzzle: quit changing your title.you are wearing my latin dictionary out...LOL
When I installed mine (4 weeks ago) I drilled the manifold from the bottom so the Thermocouple is upside down. So all the shaving kept falling out anyway. Wear safty glasses when you do this because the shaving are small. But I started with a 1/8 then went to 1/4 then used the "R" bit to finish the hole. Then when u tapp it turn the tapp a few turns in then back again to clean it out. I didnt et any shavings in my manifold this way. You can also use a vaccuum to suck out any remains if there are any. But shouldnt be hardly any. Jeff
__________________ 2002 7.3 PSD Lariat Crew Cab F-350
AIS intake w/fender mod, ISSPRO 3 guage pillar, MBRP 4" SS exhaust, Bilstien shocks, Dick Cepek Fun Country II Tires, Reverse backup sensors. ARE fiberglass hartop w/airfoil, ITP overboost Kit, BTS valve body, DP-Tuner, Powerslot Rotors/Hawk Lts pads. 6.0 Tranny cooler,Warn Premium Hubs
I drilled mine from the top on the drivers side manifold, seemed to have the most room to manipulate my cordless drill, i used the engine running method. took a lot longer especially when running in the tap, the air blowing out of hole kept getting too hot, and i was cutting in the threads very very slow, afraid of breaking it.
i just moved my pyro to pre-turbo a couple weeks ago and it was nerveracking at first but is acually was very easy. i too started with a small bit and worked my way up. i also costed each drill with axle grases to grab as much shavings as possible, worked very well. i also started the truck after i tapped to let the shavings blow out and with the ammount of compression these engines have there was no way any shavings were going to stay in there. no worries, piece of cake, youll do fine.
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1999.5 F250 4X4 7.3l now with a ZF6, Rough Country AAL, 4" blocks, firestone air bags, Boss gooseneck hitch, Autometer gauges, 6637, MBRP 4", ITP ported compressor housing, ITP in-tank mods, Harpooned, Riffraff FRx, PHP tunes,bellowed up-pipes
Ok, some times I amaze myself with dumbness.... never occurred to me to drill it from below! Or even to remove the bits with a magnet!!
Sometimes the learning curve can be so steep!
I will try it myself, more fun to work on it myself anyway and you know if it is done right or not.
I got a line on factory installed exhaust system so, might not tackle that one on me own.
Thanks again guys,
Dave
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2012 F-150 Supercrew EB, XTR trailer tow and locking 373 diff, etc. Had a 2002 Excursion, 7.3l, Limited, Dark Blue/Tan, 6637... RIP
I drilled and tapped my pyro while the engine is running. Somebody called it the hoop method. Hope this helps. BTW apply the parking brake for safety if you use this method.
I was told by a guy who has installed a whole of of pyros to just drill and fuhgeddaboutit. Start small, don't use any grease (let the chips fall out), install your pyro and enjoy.
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Chase
PAA Member #2
97 F350 CCLB 4x4 PSD
96 F350 CCLB 4x4 PSD - totaled 4/17/11 and sorely missed God speed Markadeck, you will be missed ThumperTalk / All Things Moto! / Back Country Rebels / SAWS / BRC
I was told by a guy who has installed a whole of of pyros to just drill and fuhgeddaboutit. Start small, don't use any grease (let the chips fall out), install your pyro and enjoy.
That's exactly what I did.
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Curtis
2002 F-250 PSD
Gambling with 250/200's on PMR's
Your connection to the Colorado diesel community.
Just don't that when your running the tap in, For every 1\2 turn in back out 1/4 turn. This will help prevent the tap from binding and breaking.
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Jim
01 F350 DRW, Autometer Gauges, Custom CAI with Petes Cover, 6" Miter Stacks, 38R Turbo, Casserly SS Injectors, Live tuned by DP-Tuner (F6) , and a bunch of other stuff some show, and some go. PAA #14 www.roadsidehelpnetwork.org RIP Mark.. I'll never forget you!!
When drilling upside down like that here is a little trick I use to keep shavings from getting in my face. Take a paper cup like small dixie cup and drill through the bottom of it then slide it up near the chuck on your drill and start drilling your hole.
Then once everything is started and going well just slide your cup up the drill bit close to the hole you are drilling and it will catch most if not all the hot chips before they end up in your shirt or armpit.
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Lance
99 PSD Crew Cab dually 4x4 (built 7/98), 4in straight exhaust, AFE II intake w/ petes cover, DP Tuner 40t, 60t, 80t, 80E, 120 race, OBA, CCV, 6.0 trans cooler, Isspro old school boost, pyro and trans temp., Warn Hubs
Thanks Clay@ Riff Raff Diesel Performance WWW.pistonswild.com
I was told by a guy who has installed a whole of of pyros to just drill and fuhgeddaboutit. Start small, don't use any grease (let the chips fall out), install your pyro and enjoy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pocket
That's exactly what I did.
Drill, tap, install and drive.
Unless you live somewhere that they have turned off gravity to save money, 99.9% of the shavings will fall in your face. I have done close to 60 pyro installs over the years. Never had a single issue...
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