Do a search on ipr o-rings. With a full hpop, little or no white smoke while cranking, and block heater plugged in, I would be leaning to the ipr and wiring as being suspect.

There are a couple of o-rings on the end of it, that, if they are cut, worn, torn, etc, will not allow the oil pressure to build up for the injection system. When the onboard computer sees too low oil pressure there, it won't let the injectors fire. That could be why there's no white smoke.

There's also a little stamped steel nut that holds the solenoid part of the ipr on, and if it's backed off, the engine will run very rough. If it just falls off, and the solenoid backs off, that will cause a no start too.

Same thing with the ipr wiring harness, sometimes if it gets a prolonged fuel soaking, the insulation will peel away from the wires, and they'll short out, then again a no start condition.

There was a nice diagram of where the various sensors and such were in a posting i made for Ruthless Recovery a few days ago.

Here it is - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...?highlight=icp

Here's a writeup on ipr removal and replacement, with rebuild tips too. It's for a SuperDuty generation engine, but the basics are all the same for our trucks.
http://cw-diesel.com/LuxSite/IPRInfo.htm

You can do some troubleshooting of the ipr with out removing anything too. It involves using a high pressure gauge in the cylinder head oil galleries, and seeing what kind of pressures are developing there. I haven't tried it yet, and would have to do some hunting to find what all you'd need, and how to set up the gauges, and what to do with the hoses. Let me know if you want to go that route fro diagnostics, and i'll see if i can find the info, and pass it on. Maybe someone else will chime in.

Ken

 

IPR itself or IPR o-rings. On the back of the HPOP reservoir down low in the valley, just under the front of the fuel filter. Check the little tin nut on the end of it that holds the solenoid and the spacer bushing on it. You can snug it up with needle nose pliers. Be careful with it. it is thin stamped metal and will break if you're rough with it. You may need to pull it out and replace the o-rings on it. Not too bad a job but it is really easy with a special tool that you can easily make( 10 minutes easy) The tool is a 1 1/8"(I think) deep 1/2" drive socket with a little handle welded on it from the side like a chainsaw wrench. If you dont have a welder or a trorch to weld with you can drill it and use a screwdriver shaft to slide in the hole. To be sure take off the tin nut, then the bushing and the solenoid and the socket will slide right on. Verify the size and then modify the socket so that you can turn it from the side without having to try to get a ratchet in there. There is also a deep socket like that with a hex head end on it that you can put a large wrench on to turn it. As soon as it is loose it will come the rest of the way out with your fingers. Pull it out and replace the o-rings on it. You can use any type o-rings as long as they're the right size. You may lose all the oil from your HPOP when you pull the IPR so make sure to fill it back up before you try to start it. After you put it back together it may miss and run rough for 10-20 miles until all the air is bled or forced out of the high pressure oil system.

 

I got the same exactly the problème, Did replace the CPS, no tach on start and absolutly no white smoke, Glow p. Relay is ok. The hpop top screw is stuck i just soak it with wd 40 as i guess i cant heat it... Would like to check oring and selenoid of the ipr but not shure at 100% of how to make it, you should do a video of your explaination man, you seam really good. Im considering towing it a the stealership...

 

Put a CPS in it

 

Wow, this was an old thread.

Check the easy stuff first, presuming you didn't yet. IPR o-rings usually still allow it to start when cold, then leave you stranded when you try to restart after the oil is hot. But as with anything, there's always an exception to the rule.

Did you confirm the crankcase oil level? Low oil will not allow the injectors to fire.

Did you check the #22 fuse on the block under the hood? Is the "Wait to Start" light on when you first turn the ignition on?

If the #22 fuse is blown, the fuel heater element in the filter bowl has likely broken free, and is contacting the side of the housing. The PCM won't allow the engine to start if that fuse is cooked.

BTW - if it is the fuel heater element, just remove it totally, i live in northern ontario, and haven't missed it yet in many cold winters. Just be careful, the plastic standpipe the filter sits on, and holds the heater in place, is left hand thread, and from what i hear costly to replace.

Check those ideas, if you haven't yet. Good luck, let us know what worked when you finally get it running.

 

Also might want to take a look at the ICP sensor (injection control pressure) for leaking around the top and wiring connector. Location is front top drivers side rail. I chased a no start problem for a month and this cured mine. We all love our 7.3 PSD's and 99.9% of the time they are trouble free but they will get your attention when a problem jumps up in your face. Like my 96 (105K) Supercab 4WD yesterday; the pressure line to the PS pump blew right out of the fitting that screws into the pump. It took me longer to clean up the mess than it did to replace the hose.