I've got a three speed, column shift behind a 292 that is not original to the truck. The part numbers and identification numbers don't jive with any of my parts books, but I've only got up to 57 covered.

Here's what the thing is stamped/cast with:

Cast into bottom of case:
9G24
"B"

Stamped into bottom of case:
22

Cast into driver side of case:
D

Stamped into driver side of case:
TAAA-7222A
3

Anybody with 1957 and later books have any ideas?

Here's a pic:

 

TAAA-7222A is a 53 part number. I thought all 53-56's used thes same case numbers. The drivers side that has this part number is specific for the 53-56's as the 57-60's dont have the provision for the clutch linkage bell crank attachment, the 2 bosses that the linkage piviots bolt to are only 53-56.

Kevin Bigwin

 

Not much help with the numbers, but that thing looks identical to the light duty 3-speed column shift in my '53. It's behind a 215 in my truck and is stock.

 

Turns out that "TAAA 7222A" is just the part number for the "housing assembly, transmission gear shift"...the flat plate that houses all the column shifter levers on the side of the tranny.

That housing is listed for all the 3 speed light duty transmissions, either with or without O/D.

So it's a light duty 3 speed.

Is that the BW T-86?

I still don't know what "9G24" means. July 24, 1959?

 

I have the 1957/63 Ford Truck Parts Catalogs, and the numbers you posted aren't listed there either.

However, there are these numbers listed for 1959:
9T4A
9T3B
9T3A
9T4B
Close, but no cigar. My guess is that 9 refers to the year and T refers to a truck. Beyond that, I don't know..but it's probably from a passenger car Ford, Edsel or Mercury. Those books I don't have, sorry.

EDIT: The original metal tag number was bolted on the rear housing..it appears to be missing (nothing new).

 

Kevin, I just read your post closer and understand what you meant by the clutch linkage and it being specific to the 53-56 trucks.

So it's a 1953 to 1956 light duty 3 speed.

The reason I'm curious is I'm starting to research the options for a BW overdrive, and from what I've read that light duty 3 speed is a perfect bolt on for the overdrive. The only complication would be driveshaft length.

To avoid sounding stupid in conversation, is the light duty three speed a T-86?

 

The T-86 was the common Tranny used with the B-W OD, its a very good solid combonation. B-W Manuals here, free: http://www.speedprint.com/Deves50/overdriveindex.php

Also the T-85 was used with the OD including some early Muscle Cars.

 

Nice link.

That OD combined with a better rear end will really make 55-60 mph a lot more pleasant.

Right now highway speeds make the engine rev so high you expect to hear Mr. Scott from Star Trek say "warp factor 9...captain...she's breakin' up!"

 

Find one of those wheel/gear speed calculators and play around with tire size and rear end ratios calculated on the 1:1 and the OD ratio.
You can work out the best combo to get a good town/road setup.

 

Rob,
You are correct in understandind the side cover specifics for the 53-56's. The transmissions them selves are basically the same otherwise 53-62 or so. I use any of the years listed and install the shift covers from 53-56's to make them work. The 57-60's has a hydraulic clutch so there was no longer a need for the linkage bosses

This is the same trans that I have in all my half tons including my panel and it has the overdrive.

I'm running 3.92 gears and it just purrs down the road. There is one feature with the ovedrive that I dont like. When you have it in the overdrive selection ther is no engine braking when down shifting into second. It freewheels and now you have to solely rely on brakes, kinda scarry with the single master cylinder. Otherwise its a wonderful upgrade.

kevin Bigwin

 

Under "Normal" operating to get the OD to disingage you need to floor it. When going down hill as you described thats a poor option. What you can do is give it just enough gas to "Tension" the drive line and flick the ignition switch off and on real quick. This acts just like the gas pedel switch and will take it out of free wheel.

 

Have '53- 250, 4.88 rear, hearing all kinds of solutions to change this ratio, from switching rear end, to adapting s-10 tranny 5-speed. Also had seen post from someone with '59 rear end ford, curious if this will adapt. In nutshell, looking for easiest way to change this very low ratio, with 4 speed and 8 bolt pattern. thanks for input.

 

Welcome to FTE, Blueflat! The topic of rear end swaps is popular around here and there are many threads from the past 7 years that discuss it. Try using the "search" function up on blue bar above, click "advanced search", and then look in the 48-60 forum for "rear end swap".

Here's a quick answer for your question about an F-250 rear end: The easiest swap for us is a later model F-250, all the way up to 1968. Apparently that's a bolt on swap, and the late 60's F-250's came with much better highway ratios than 4.88, more like 3.50.

If you don't care about keeping the full floating rear axle or the eight lug wheels, then you'll have a huge number of choices open to you. Do the search, and if that doesn't turn up the info you want, start a new thread.

Again, welcome to FTE. It's always good to have more big truck guys around.

 

thanks Rob, this looks like simplest change. And this is what I need. Will a older rear fit easier than say a '68? Or will I find a better ratio in the later years. Also, when looking for replacement, I'm thinking 8 bolt would always be on a 250?

 

From what I understand they all fit the same up to 68 (or was it 69?!?), same spring set up, width, everthing.

You'll have to find an F-250 or F-350 for the eight bolt wheels and full floating rear axle. The full floating rear axle is the main mechanical difference between F-100's and F-250's. It allows a much heavier bed load than the rear end design on the F-100's would allow.

F-100's have basically the same rear end design as a car. The rear axle shafts carry the weight of the bed and the only thing holding the axles (and the rear wheels!) onto the truck is the bearing retainers. The full floating rear axle carries all the weight of the bed on the thick steel outer housing of the rear end, and the wheel hubs are kept in place with large nuts instead of little bearing retainers. The drive axles run down the center of the housing and attach to the wheel hubs via that big can looking thing at the center of the rear wheels. All the drive axles on an F-250 have to do is transfer engine power to the wheel hubs. They don't have to carry any of the bed weight, and they don't hold the wheels in place. A side benefit of this is you can literally take the rear axle shafts right off the truck without jacking it up.

That's also why four wheelers and rock crawler guys love the full floating rear ends. You can break a drive axle right in half and you won't lose a wheel!