Used Injectors
#16
11-08-2016, 05:43 AM
This covers how, specs and tools, it talks about replacing the seals, but will do you good.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ed-for-it.html
Older threads have a tendency to not get much attention.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ed-for-it.html
Older threads have a tendency to not get much attention.
#17
11-08-2016, 07:58 AM
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#18
11-08-2016, 12:40 PM
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I purchased my long torx set at Advance Auto, used an 18 mm 12 pt socket to push the injector plug out, and a router wrench to pop off the oil line. You might could do that with two flat blade screw drivers. I will try it this weekend and report back.
I have had injector issues and went through the procedure twice now on my 03. It is not that time consuming. I would suggest a small step ladder and a moving blanket for padding. You will be all over the engine bay.
I also purchased a Milwaukee 3/8" battery powered wrench at Home Depot that is well worth the money.
I found my startup time was better if I did not drain the oil rail.
I also followed the startup procedures from FICMrepair.com to avoid stressing my FICM.
You can send me an email if you want the manual with the torque specs for an 03. I followed the install guide from swamps diesel, although there were not any pictures like the thread above. Your oil rail will not look like the one in the thread. It will be the log style.
Good luck.
I have had injector issues and went through the procedure twice now on my 03. It is not that time consuming. I would suggest a small step ladder and a moving blanket for padding. You will be all over the engine bay.
I also purchased a Milwaukee 3/8" battery powered wrench at Home Depot that is well worth the money.
I found my startup time was better if I did not drain the oil rail.
I also followed the startup procedures from FICMrepair.com to avoid stressing my FICM.
You can send me an email if you want the manual with the torque specs for an 03. I followed the install guide from swamps diesel, although there were not any pictures like the thread above. Your oil rail will not look like the one in the thread. It will be the log style.
Good luck.
#19
11-09-2016, 01:46 PM
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#20
11-09-2016, 02:02 PM
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Yes I do.
Correct, the 03 does not have a dummy plug.
The quick connect to the standpipe will stay in place. The braided line will just rotate up and rest in place after disconnecting it from the oil rail.
Yes, I lifted it up and flipped it to keep the oil inside. The first time I drained all of the oil out of it and it seemed to take longer to crank.
I used this process:
https://16x1p531pcnxjpi9p2ewt95n-wpe...stallation.pdf
Correct, the 03 does not have a dummy plug.
The quick connect to the standpipe will stay in place. The braided line will just rotate up and rest in place after disconnecting it from the oil rail.
Yes, I lifted it up and flipped it to keep the oil inside. The first time I drained all of the oil out of it and it seemed to take longer to crank.
I used this process:
https://16x1p531pcnxjpi9p2ewt95n-wpe...stallation.pdf
#21
11-09-2016, 02:04 PM
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#22
11-10-2016, 03:21 PM
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ive got a router wrench. hope its big enough. im now looking at diagnostic equipment and apps to help see whats going. im looking for a wireless connector for an ipad. i understand a lack of fuel pressure is detrimental to injectors. my injectors did pass the click test. do u know if that means the ficm and the coils are working and more than likely internal damage to the injector? these things arent cheap. i got over 200k on the originals and 125K on these now.
#23
11-10-2016, 09:11 PM
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I am new to the 6.0, so my knowledge is limited to my own trouble shooting, reading on FTE, and wrench time.
I believe the injector buzz test will only confirm the coils are operating and electrical current is following from the FICM through the harness.
You need to complete a contribution test and ohm test the pins on the injector. You should also test the FICM voltage at various stages.
A bad FICM will not hold the correct voltage or throw low circuit codes.
What codes are you getting?
I believe the injector buzz test will only confirm the coils are operating and electrical current is following from the FICM through the harness.
You need to complete a contribution test and ohm test the pins on the injector. You should also test the FICM voltage at various stages.
A bad FICM will not hold the correct voltage or throw low circuit codes.
What codes are you getting?
#24
11-11-2016, 10:18 AM
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The garage tested the truck while it was warmed up and the ficm voltage was up 48 +/-, the buzz test went good, some of the glow plugs showed some weakness. The fuel pressure wasn't good enough on the test drive and at idle. The balance test showed #2 extremely low and #5 weaker than The rest. They wanted to do diagnosis with the truck cold but I couldn't leave it. I'm ordering an OBDII doggle so I can check on the basics. It seams to crank fine and idle slightly rough after warmed up. I started a post about my trouble and wanting to get a scanner that can help me monitor my 315K 6.0 money pit. I do change oil at 6-7k using rotella and or motor craft 15w-40, (considering synthetic with same mileage intervals) motor craft fuel filters every 3rd oil change. Coolant changes and monitored. I don't haul much, just a couple tool boxes and saws and I don't sit still in traffic much. Engine is pretty clean on top with a 7 year very small oil leak on the passenger side dripping below block heater. Tech thinks it may be oil pan or bed pan. Don't have to add oil between changes. Love this platform for work and family travels but scared to do any mods on the engine for performance or efficiency. Looking into additional filters for fuel, oil, coolant.
#25
11-11-2016, 03:30 PM
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I paid $356 for Auto Engenuity with the Ford bundle. The average replacement part for our engine is close to that. Money well spent to see the codes for yourself and live dat a monitoring.
Based on the comments above, I would replace #2 injector. Buy OEM or you may be back where you started. See my other posts.
I will post the oring part number for the 03 glow plug buss bar. It is more durable that later years IMO and should be reused to save some cash. I would replace those glow plugs and orings while you are that deep on that side. They are not that expensive. Again, OEM.
You could wait on #5 since it is on the opposite side. I am not sure about injector life span,but you may be chashing them around one by one at 125K. If you do the labor once, you will not think it is a big deal to get back in there when another lets go.
Based on the comments above, I would replace #2 injector. Buy OEM or you may be back where you started. See my other posts.
I will post the oring part number for the 03 glow plug buss bar. It is more durable that later years IMO and should be reused to save some cash. I would replace those glow plugs and orings while you are that deep on that side. They are not that expensive. Again, OEM.
You could wait on #5 since it is on the opposite side. I am not sure about injector life span,but you may be chashing them around one by one at 125K. If you do the labor once, you will not think it is a big deal to get back in there when another lets go.
#26
09-21-2023, 10:37 PM
shop Manual
{You said "
Fire me off a PM with your email (make sure you don't put the @ symbol in it so the filters don't kill it) and I'll email you PDF copies of the shop manuals.[QUOTE=SpartanDieselTech;4357141]Fire me off a PM with your email (make sure you don't put the @ symbol in it so the filters don't kill it) and I'll email you PDF copies of the shop manuals."
mrhudson47 at g mail.com}
If possible, Thanks
Fire me off a PM with your email (make sure you don't put the @ symbol in it so the filters don't kill it) and I'll email you PDF copies of the shop manuals.
Fire me off a PM with your email (make sure you don't put the @ symbol in it so the filters don't kill it) and I'll email you PDF copies of the shop manuals.[QUOTE=SpartanDieselTech;4357141]Fire me off a PM with your email (make sure you don't put the @ symbol in it so the filters don't kill it) and I'll email you PDF copies of the shop manuals."
mrhudson47 at g mail.com}
If possible, Thanks
Fire me off a PM with your email (make sure you don't put the @ symbol in it so the filters don't kill it) and I'll email you PDF copies of the shop manuals.
Fire me off a PM with your email (make sure you don't put the @ symbol in it so the filters don't kill it) and I'll email you PDF copies of the shop manuals.
First thing you have to do is dig your way to the valve covers. All I can say is, just start removing parts. For ease of doing this, I would remove the hot side intercooler tube, passenger side inner fender liner, air filter assembly (all the way up to the turbo will be neccessary; when you pull off the last peice, it will have the CCV tube attached to it- manuever it so that it has rotated 90 degrees in the valve cover then pull up). Drain the coolant and remove the degas bottle, the drivers side battery and battery tray.
On the passenger side, remove the glow plug control module and bracket and then the transmission filler tube... all of it is fastened with 10mm nuts. After the coolant has drained, remove the clamp and heater hose from underneath the alternator...there will still be some coolant left in it so keep a rag underneath. From there you should be able to get to the valve cover bolts...be sure and mark the position of both the BOLTS and the STUDS on both valve covers because there are positions for both. Once the valve cover is off, you will see the high pressure rail sitting underneath. There is a hydraulic line with a quick disconnect fitting going to it- chances are you won't have the tool to remove the line, but don't worry about it. Simply remove the 8mm bolts holding the rail down; pull it up, let the oil drain out then lay it over to the side out of your way with the line still attached- not a big deal.
Pretty much same procedure on the drivers side. Remove the nut to the oil dipstick tube, but instead of pulling the entire tube out, just rotatate it down and out of the way. Mark the position of the valve cover bolts and studs again, and remove. The Fuel Injection Control Module has 10mm bolts holding it down in the back, and 13mm bolts on the front. Remove them and pull the FICM up so you can see the connectors on the back. There is a tab that needs to be pushed on both the top and bottom of each connector to remove it; wrap both hands around it, push from either side, and pull out...they can be quite stubborn. Once it is off, there are 10mm nuts holding the mount down, simply remove.
To disconnect the injector from the rocker carrier- there is an electrical connection at the top of each cylinder head. You will see a c-shaped metal clip locked onto a plastic connector on the outside- either mash this clip IN while you wiggle on the connector to release it, or simply pull the clip out and lay it to the side...either way works. Remove the connector. Now there are two tabs holding the actual injector wiring into the top of the rocker carrier- from the outside, take a shallow well 18mm or 19mm socket and rock it back and forth on top of the connector. This will release it from the head and you will see it slide down a bit- then just reach inside and wiggle it the rest of the way out. From there, take your T40 bit and remove the injector.
Remove the old o-rings and compression washer from the new injectors. Use a 9mm deep well socket to push the new compression washer over the nozzles and install the new o-rings. You can use either vasoline or engine oil to lube the injector o-rings. Oil is a little less messy but will smoke on initial startup for a minute or two.
Put the injector hold-down clamp up against the injector with the tab locked in, and install both down into the cylinder head together. You'll need to wiggle it a bit and you will feel both the injector fall down into its hole and the bolt of the hold-down start in its tapped hole. Run it the rest of the way down then torque 24-26 lb-ft. Shove the electrical connector back through the rocker carrier hole until you feel it click (takes quite a bit of force) then reinstall the injector harness connector back into the top...don't rotate the harness connector while installing or you could bend the pins.
Make sure there is oil in the top of each injector (I usually just take a half quart and dump all over the top of the injectors) then carefully place the rail back down over the injectors, with the joints into the tops. There is a torque spec for the 8mm rail bolts, but it is not critical...just torque snugly with a 3/8 ratchet.
Reinstall the valve covers and put the truck back together.
When you go to crank it back up, it will take 15-30 seconds of solid cranking to fire it up- don't be alarmed. Don't stop halfway through, continue to crank until it starts.
If you want to change the glow plugs- there is a small trick to removing the glow plug harness. The harness is located right at the bottom of the aluminum portion of the cylinder head- use a peice of 16 gauge wire to pull out the connector. There is a ring at the bottom of each connector, wrap the wire around it then yank the wire with a pair of pliers. The glow plug is 10mm, just remove and reinstall.
First thing you have to do is dig your way to the valve covers. All I can say is, just start removing parts. For ease of doing this, I would remove the hot side intercooler tube, passenger side inner fender liner, air filter assembly (all the way up to the turbo will be neccessary; when you pull off the last peice, it will have the CCV tube attached to it- manuever it so that it has rotated 90 degrees in the valve cover then pull up). Drain the coolant and remove the degas bottle, the drivers side battery and battery tray.
On the passenger side, remove the glow plug control module and bracket and then the transmission filler tube... all of it is fastened with 10mm nuts. After the coolant has drained, remove the clamp and heater hose from underneath the alternator...there will still be some coolant left in it so keep a rag underneath. From there you should be able to get to the valve cover bolts...be sure and mark the position of both the BOLTS and the STUDS on both valve covers because there are positions for both. Once the valve cover is off, you will see the high pressure rail sitting underneath. There is a hydraulic line with a quick disconnect fitting going to it- chances are you won't have the tool to remove the line, but don't worry about it. Simply remove the 8mm bolts holding the rail down; pull it up, let the oil drain out then lay it over to the side out of your way with the line still attached- not a big deal.
Pretty much same procedure on the drivers side. Remove the nut to the oil dipstick tube, but instead of pulling the entire tube out, just rotatate it down and out of the way. Mark the position of the valve cover bolts and studs again, and remove. The Fuel Injection Control Module has 10mm bolts holding it down in the back, and 13mm bolts on the front. Remove them and pull the FICM up so you can see the connectors on the back. There is a tab that needs to be pushed on both the top and bottom of each connector to remove it; wrap both hands around it, push from either side, and pull out...they can be quite stubborn. Once it is off, there are 10mm nuts holding the mount down, simply remove.
To disconnect the injector from the rocker carrier- there is an electrical connection at the top of each cylinder head. You will see a c-shaped metal clip locked onto a plastic connector on the outside- either mash this clip IN while you wiggle on the connector to release it, or simply pull the clip out and lay it to the side...either way works. Remove the connector. Now there are two tabs holding the actual injector wiring into the top of the rocker carrier- from the outside, take a shallow well 18mm or 19mm socket and rock it back and forth on top of the connector. This will release it from the head and you will see it slide down a bit- then just reach inside and wiggle it the rest of the way out. From there, take your T40 bit and remove the injector.
Remove the old o-rings and compression washer from the new injectors. Use a 9mm deep well socket to push the new compression washer over the nozzles and install the new o-rings. You can use either vasoline or engine oil to lube the injector o-rings. Oil is a little less messy but will smoke on initial startup for a minute or two.
Put the injector hold-down clamp up against the injector with the tab locked in, and install both down into the cylinder head together. You'll need to wiggle it a bit and you will feel both the injector fall down into its hole and the bolt of the hold-down start in its tapped hole. Run it the rest of the way down then torque 24-26 lb-ft. Shove the electrical connector back through the rocker carrier hole until you feel it click (takes quite a bit of force) then reinstall the injector harness connector back into the top...don't rotate the harness connector while installing or you could bend the pins.
Make sure there is oil in the top of each injector (I usually just take a half quart and dump all over the top of the injectors) then carefully place the rail back down over the injectors, with the joints into the tops. There is a torque spec for the 8mm rail bolts, but it is not critical...just torque snugly with a 3/8 ratchet.
Reinstall the valve covers and put the truck back together.
When you go to crank it back up, it will take 15-30 seconds of solid cranking to fire it up- don't be alarmed. Don't stop halfway through, continue to crank until it starts.
If you want to change the glow plugs- there is a small trick to removing the glow plug harness. The harness is located right at the bottom of the aluminum portion of the cylinder head- use a peice of 16 gauge wire to pull out the connector. There is a ring at the bottom of each connector, wrap the wire around it then yank the wire with a pair of pliers. The glow plug is 10mm, just remove and reinstall.
#27
09-24-2023, 01:02 AM
Logistics Pro
SYK, that thread is 16 years old and I haven't seen Spartan here in awhile. I also didn't like the way he jumped to conclusions, no codes, no data, and he knows it's injectors and says to replace the GPCM and glow plugs as well??? Honestly, sounds like typical shop tech who doesn't mind throwing parts at it since it's the customer's money.
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Bigfwt04
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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