Power Steering return hose
#1
Power Steering return hose
1983 F-150 1/2 ton 2WD, 300 4-speed
Yes, I did a search ; found a couple of answers but need a couple more (or at least some assurance).
Power steering return hose has rusted through. It's a long steel convoluted pipe with a threaded fitting for the steering box, and then a section of rubber hose going into the pump. Exact replacement has been harder to find than an honest politician on payday. Most stores just list X length of bulk hose. But of course, I'll have to incorporate the threaded fitting for the box end of the hose.
The original line has a loop in it, and courses along the front frame rail. A little bracket holds it onto the rail. There's a photo of it at http://userpages.chorus.net/ptoleary/returnhose.jpg .
I've read a couple of posts (and gotten similar guidance from parts counters) about just cutting off the pipe upstream of the leak, flaring the end like a fuel line, then slipping the hose over it with a worm gear clamp (or two, for good measure). I'll also de-rust the remaining pipe and paint it. But here's what I'm wondering. Since it's the low-pressure side, why did they run such a long, convoluted steel section of hose? I'm presuming I should "mimic" that with the rubber hose as best I can, right? I suppose I can put a plastic or metal strap around the hose at some point and fasten it to the same point on the frame rail the way the old one was. I'm just wondering, what purpose did it serve to have the hose not only that long, but that shape, and in that location?
Any other ideas about building this line, so it works the way the old one did (well, minus the leak...)?
Thanks
Yes, I did a search ; found a couple of answers but need a couple more (or at least some assurance).
Power steering return hose has rusted through. It's a long steel convoluted pipe with a threaded fitting for the steering box, and then a section of rubber hose going into the pump. Exact replacement has been harder to find than an honest politician on payday. Most stores just list X length of bulk hose. But of course, I'll have to incorporate the threaded fitting for the box end of the hose.
The original line has a loop in it, and courses along the front frame rail. A little bracket holds it onto the rail. There's a photo of it at http://userpages.chorus.net/ptoleary/returnhose.jpg .
I've read a couple of posts (and gotten similar guidance from parts counters) about just cutting off the pipe upstream of the leak, flaring the end like a fuel line, then slipping the hose over it with a worm gear clamp (or two, for good measure). I'll also de-rust the remaining pipe and paint it. But here's what I'm wondering. Since it's the low-pressure side, why did they run such a long, convoluted steel section of hose? I'm presuming I should "mimic" that with the rubber hose as best I can, right? I suppose I can put a plastic or metal strap around the hose at some point and fasten it to the same point on the frame rail the way the old one was. I'm just wondering, what purpose did it serve to have the hose not only that long, but that shape, and in that location?
Any other ideas about building this line, so it works the way the old one did (well, minus the leak...)?
Thanks
#2
My guess is they ran the twisty turney line for enhanced cooling.
I have bought a fitting in the past that threads in then has a barbed end for the hose to attach to. I don't remember exactly what it looks like or the difficulty of finding the fitting. Thats the route I would pursue though.
I have bought a fitting in the past that threads in then has a barbed end for the hose to attach to. I don't remember exactly what it looks like or the difficulty of finding the fitting. Thats the route I would pursue though.
#3
#4
Here's the original part number for your application
E3TZ-3A713-E .. P/S Return Hose, Gear to Pump
The return hose is not under very much pressure, hence the squeeze or screw clamp only on the rubber portion of the hose where it attaches to the pump return nipple.
Remember: Just because one dealer says the part is obsolete, doesn't mean that's true. Might just pay to check around. The era of "I don't give a scheiss" has befallen this country's new car dealers parts depts today...especially when it comes to older car/truck parts. Ask at a parts counter about older parts, the counterman just says..."obsolete" without even looking. Makes me wanna puke!
You can also call Green Sales, in Cincinnati (513-731-3304) and give them the above number and the application. They may have one.
E3TZ-3A713-E .. P/S Return Hose, Gear to Pump
The return hose is not under very much pressure, hence the squeeze or screw clamp only on the rubber portion of the hose where it attaches to the pump return nipple.
Remember: Just because one dealer says the part is obsolete, doesn't mean that's true. Might just pay to check around. The era of "I don't give a scheiss" has befallen this country's new car dealers parts depts today...especially when it comes to older car/truck parts. Ask at a parts counter about older parts, the counterman just says..."obsolete" without even looking. Makes me wanna puke!
You can also call Green Sales, in Cincinnati (513-731-3304) and give them the above number and the application. They may have one.
Last edited by NumberDummy; 01-25-2007 at 06:27 PM.
#5
Paden, sorry, I missed your comment about the cooling. And I think you're right. I took NumDum's part number (thanks, ND!), called my local dealer, he poked around and found out it's more likely 3A713-F. They can get one, for $63 and change (yow!). And I found a Russian site with the number, and enough English, to determine that the "F" number is "with cooler".
I went ahead and cut the old line, and got the end flared (no charge at the neighborhood muffler shop!), and bought enough rubber return hose to match the old line for length. So I wonder, if I just use that whole length of rubber hose, and locate it approx. where the old hose hung, will the air flow past the rubber hose sufficiently cool the returning fluid? Yeah, expense is a consideration, but mostly, I just wanna get this bad boy back on the road.
I went ahead and cut the old line, and got the end flared (no charge at the neighborhood muffler shop!), and bought enough rubber return hose to match the old line for length. So I wonder, if I just use that whole length of rubber hose, and locate it approx. where the old hose hung, will the air flow past the rubber hose sufficiently cool the returning fluid? Yeah, expense is a consideration, but mostly, I just wanna get this bad boy back on the road.
#6
I would just patch it, splice in a new chunk of hose somehow. I really think the actual cooling if thats what it's for is negligable. If you notice your steering not being quite as easy or the pump squeeling some later then you can get the actual part.
I hve a couple and have seen several with the original line replaced with a length of rubber hose and no noticeable effect.
I hve a couple and have seen several with the original line replaced with a length of rubber hose and no noticeable effect.
#7
[QUOTE=madpogue]Paden, sorry, I missed your comment about the cooling. And I think you're right. I took NumDum's part number (thanks, ND!), called my local dealer, he poked around and found out it's more likely 3A713-F. They can get one, for $63 and change (yow!). And I found a Russian site with the number, and enough English, to determine that the "F" number is "with cooler".[QUOTE]
"With cooler" doesn't mean a curlyque in the hose, it means there's an actual cooler on the p/s pump, that the fluid recirculates through.
These coolers resemble a mini radiator, and were used under abnormal conditions. 1961 and later T-Birds and Lincolns used a similar cooler, tho they're huge by today's standards. People use these older P/S coolers, and adopt them today to rear axle coolers.
"With cooler" doesn't mean a curlyque in the hose, it means there's an actual cooler on the p/s pump, that the fluid recirculates through.
These coolers resemble a mini radiator, and were used under abnormal conditions. 1961 and later T-Birds and Lincolns used a similar cooler, tho they're huge by today's standards. People use these older P/S coolers, and adopt them today to rear axle coolers.
Trending Topics
#8
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Northern California
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes
on
17 Posts
$63 Bucks???
I bought one in 2004 for $25 or $30 something...
The return line on mine where it bolted to the crossmember rubbed through and caused a hole.
================
As for the parts counter men, I know what you mean, Numberdummy.
Most of the time especially nowdays when I call in for a part I just ask them for the part like this...
"Hello, I need a E3TZ-3A713-E thats E as in Edward, 3, T as in thomas, Z as in zed, dash 3, A as in alpha, 713 dash E as in Edward, do you have one in stock?"
Nine times out of ten it cuts through the BS.
I bought one in 2004 for $25 or $30 something...
The return line on mine where it bolted to the crossmember rubbed through and caused a hole.
================
As for the parts counter men, I know what you mean, Numberdummy.
Most of the time especially nowdays when I call in for a part I just ask them for the part like this...
"Hello, I need a E3TZ-3A713-E thats E as in Edward, 3, T as in thomas, Z as in zed, dash 3, A as in alpha, 713 dash E as in Edward, do you have one in stock?"
Nine times out of ten it cuts through the BS.
#9
Originally Posted by NumberDummy
"With cooler" doesn't mean a curlyque in the hose, it means there's an actual cooler on the p/s pump, that the fluid recirculates through.
These coolers resemble a mini radiator, and were used under abnormal conditions. 1961 and later T-Birds and Lincolns used a similar cooler, tho they're huge by today's standards. People use these older P/S coolers, and adopt them today to rear axle coolers.
These coolers resemble a mini radiator, and were used under abnormal conditions. 1961 and later T-Birds and Lincolns used a similar cooler, tho they're huge by today's standards. People use these older P/S coolers, and adopt them today to rear axle coolers.
Originally Posted by 81-F-150-Explorer
As for the parts counter men, I know what you mean, Numberdummy.
Most of the time especially nowdays when I call in for a part I just ask them for the part like this...
"Hello, I need a E3TZ-3A713-E thats E as in Edward, 3, T as in thomas, Z as in zed, dash 3, A as in alpha, 713 dash E as in Edward, do you have one in stock?"
Nine times out of ten it cuts through the BS.
Most of the time especially nowdays when I call in for a part I just ask them for the part like this...
"Hello, I need a E3TZ-3A713-E thats E as in Edward, 3, T as in thomas, Z as in zed, dash 3, A as in alpha, 713 dash E as in Edward, do you have one in stock?"
Nine times out of ten it cuts through the BS.
Well, I went ahead with the rubber hose and the cut-off remains of the steel pipe. Zip-tied it to the cross-member; it _looks_ like it's clear of anything that'll chafe it. Pump sucked down some fluid of course, but it's holding pressure just fine. It's too d@mn cold out to a deluxe job. When weather permits, I'll look more closely, and construct chafe shields out of old bits of bike tire as needed.
Looks like I'm back in Kansas. Thanks, everyone.
#10
#11
Originally Posted by madpogue
Ah, and that Russian/English site has a 3A713-G listed as "w/o cooler". I'm guessing that's closer to what I need.
Bingo! When I called the dealer yesterday, thinking it was the pressure hose, I got "It's obsoleted. [click]" (well, not quite, but...). Tonight, when I called, I read off the part number just like that: "E Edward, 3 T Thomas, Z zebra....", somehow he had more time to poke around.
Well, I went ahead with the rubber hose and the cut-off remains of the steel pipe. Zip-tied it to the cross-member; it _looks_ like it's clear of anything that'll chafe it. Pump sucked down some fluid of course, but it's holding pressure just fine. It's too d@mn cold out to a deluxe job. When weather permits, I'll look more closely, and construct chafe shields out of old bits of bike tire as needed.
Looks like I'm back in Kansas. Thanks, everyone.
Bingo! When I called the dealer yesterday, thinking it was the pressure hose, I got "It's obsoleted. [click]" (well, not quite, but...). Tonight, when I called, I read off the part number just like that: "E Edward, 3 T Thomas, Z zebra....", somehow he had more time to poke around.
Well, I went ahead with the rubber hose and the cut-off remains of the steel pipe. Zip-tied it to the cross-member; it _looks_ like it's clear of anything that'll chafe it. Pump sucked down some fluid of course, but it's holding pressure just fine. It's too d@mn cold out to a deluxe job. When weather permits, I'll look more closely, and construct chafe shields out of old bits of bike tire as needed.
Looks like I'm back in Kansas. Thanks, everyone.
I just hope you used actual bulk p/s hose. Vacuum hose will work in a pinch, but it won't last.
There were 5 different p/s return lines that would have worked. I still think the one I typed first was right...but it doesn't really matter..it's fixed, and that's what counts.
Y'all don't have to go through the phoentic BS when calling a dealer...just do it the way it been done since 1908, when the current part number system was first implemented.
When the guy answers.."Hello"...just say..."Check a number" then read it off..''I must have done that 50,000 times in 35 years.
Last edited by NumberDummy; 01-26-2007 at 01:22 AM.
#13
Originally Posted by NumberDummy
Correct way to read it is: echo 3 tango ...
Oh, and I did have to say "E - edward" when I called, 'cuz Mr. Deafwrench kept hearing it as "A".
Originally Posted by Sport45
They're $18 at NAPA. Just put one on my '83. It fit fine.
Last edited by madpogue; 01-26-2007 at 08:34 AM.
#15
I just bought one at PepBoys a month or so ago and it was under $20 if I recall. I imagine any good parts store should have one. I would look around some more at a "discount" auto store like AutoZone, Pepboys, NAPA etc.
If you still can't get one, Rock Auto has two manufacturers for them. One is $13 and the the Gates is $17 but you also have to pay postage........
www.rockauto.com/applet3.html
Good Luck,
Lee
If you still can't get one, Rock Auto has two manufacturers for them. One is $13 and the the Gates is $17 but you also have to pay postage........
www.rockauto.com/applet3.html
Good Luck,
Lee
Last edited by Lee Lichterman; 01-30-2007 at 07:00 PM.