I have been doing some research in the forums on refinishing anodized aluminum trim parts, and got some good information. Thanks.

Also, I looked on the web as a whole and found this

http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize99.html
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Anodizing/anodizing_aluminum.htm

One site guy is selling some wares, like a guide and chemicals, but I'm not pushing that. The sites have good information about setting up small scale anodizing system for a shop or basement and good information about the anodizing process, in general.

I do some artistic metalworking with copper, brass, stainless, etc. and have done some electroplating on a small scale. What this guy is doing makes sense for some Slick parts. Obviously, a grille would be a bit large for a basement/shop setup. It is not as intimidating as one might think, but the chemicals can be on the harsh side and extreme care should be taken. Also, anytime you mix water with electricity danger lurks near by. One milliamp AC in the right spot will mean that your Slick is for sale. This process is all done with DC, however.

If I decide to try this sort of setup, I will let y'all know how it goes. Also, if anyone else has experience with anodizing at home, let me know.

 

Pokey, Some of the members have clear coated their polished trim rather than anodizing it again. FYI

John

 

Yep...still considering clear coat, myself, for its simplicity and such (thanks for the reply, Dave). I just thought that some may be interested in a good visual description of the process and possibly taking their Fords back to ultra-original for cheap, not that anyone could tell the difference.

It's like the whole fake diamond versus real...who knows the diff but the owner?

 

Interesting articles. No question would only have to reanodize once; whereas, applying coat(s) clear would probably need to be redone in few years. Recently took couple items to plater for quote to reanodizing. Plater said they can't duplicate the process on the early model alum. alloys so they now stripe and apply coat of sealer. Did not think at the time, to inquire as to why. Intend to call and find out before taking bumpers in for plating. Thanx Pokey for the sources, spent sometime reading the articles. Would be interested in progress if decide to go that route.

dave

 

Thanks Dave...will do on the progress. I may just clearcoat short-term (my Ford may be used as a vehicle for a parade float this summer...much work to be done). I will definitely suggest using some "practice pieces" before working on good stuff.

Please post what you find from the plater. I think anyone considering anodize would be interested. Also, if anyone knows or can find what alloy is used for trim, that could help, as well. It seems to make a difference from the articles.

 

When time permits, oh yea, intend to try the clear 'powder coat' as opposed to coat of aerosol clear. Still checking w/ local platers reg their anodize process, or lack of.

dave

 

That reminds me...There is good information on powdercoating at the mini-lathe site listed in my first post. There is a brilliant chrome powder coat process that is out there for aluminum. It might be an interesting comparison in price between professional anodize or professional powdercoat, especially for grilles. I clearcoated a piece of trim this weekend, and it didn't stick.

I've seen powdercoat machines that are pretty reasonable, but it's the oven that gets me. All you need is 400 degrees, but I don't have room for a kitchen stove in my work area. One guy uses a toaster oven, but you can't get but the smallest pieces of trim in that. Apparently, the baking process makes the oven unusable for cooking food, so using the one in the kitchen is out.

Has anyone had any experience with powdercoat at home???