Just bought a '40 Pickup
#1
Just bought a '40 Pickup
Hi,
I'm just new to your group and as the title says, I just bought a '40 pickup. I had a few questions about it and wondered if the group could provide some of the answers for me.
This pickup came to me in thousands of pieces and more boxes than you can count. It was someone else's project for the last 20 years and it just never got finished.
One of my first questions was, How many people here have '40 - '41 pickups?
Secondly, does anyone know the location(s) for the VIN # ? I have noticed a few numbers and alpha's while cleaning the frame. Have others noted similar sightings of numbers and do they know what they mean?
Thirdly, What is the most poplar engine/trans configeration? I acquired two engines and trans combos with this purchase. I have a '67 289 Cobra w/ C6 and a '87 Cougar 5.0 EFI w/ AOD.
Fourth, I was thinking of under floor brakes so as to keep the firewall clean. Can anyone recommend a good Vendor of under floor brakes.
Lastly, Is anyone going to Minneapolis for the 'Back to the '50's'???
I would appreciate hearing your comments and seeing your projects Thanks, AL.
I'm just new to your group and as the title says, I just bought a '40 pickup. I had a few questions about it and wondered if the group could provide some of the answers for me.
This pickup came to me in thousands of pieces and more boxes than you can count. It was someone else's project for the last 20 years and it just never got finished.
One of my first questions was, How many people here have '40 - '41 pickups?
Secondly, does anyone know the location(s) for the VIN # ? I have noticed a few numbers and alpha's while cleaning the frame. Have others noted similar sightings of numbers and do they know what they mean?
Thirdly, What is the most poplar engine/trans configeration? I acquired two engines and trans combos with this purchase. I have a '67 289 Cobra w/ C6 and a '87 Cougar 5.0 EFI w/ AOD.
Fourth, I was thinking of under floor brakes so as to keep the firewall clean. Can anyone recommend a good Vendor of under floor brakes.
Lastly, Is anyone going to Minneapolis for the 'Back to the '50's'???
I would appreciate hearing your comments and seeing your projects Thanks, AL.
#2
Just bought a '40 Pickup
Hi, I have a forty, its not on the original frame so I cant tell you about the numbers on the frame Either one of the engine combos will work real nice in the truck As for under floor brakes mine is a granada m/c mounted backwards under the cab I made the mounting brackets and arms for it. Keep us posted about the progress. John (fatforty)
#3
#4
Just bought a '40 Pickup
Al - we're in the process of putting our '41 back together. The vehicle ID is on the top rail of the frame on the drivers side about 6" from where the front of the frame ends.
Our VIN reads IGC-23574 with a star at the end. The first letter is actually stamped a capital letter "i" but you have to use the Number 1 to get it registered. Only thing we can figure is that they used the Roman Numeral for the first number. If you read down the messages on this board, there's one where I asked about getting it titled and registered and Ken gave me all the spec's on how the Ford VIN numbering works.
Welcome to the Site & I hope this helped.
Our VIN reads IGC-23574 with a star at the end. The first letter is actually stamped a capital letter "i" but you have to use the Number 1 to get it registered. Only thing we can figure is that they used the Roman Numeral for the first number. If you read down the messages on this board, there's one where I asked about getting it titled and registered and Ken gave me all the spec's on how the Ford VIN numbering works.
Welcome to the Site & I hope this helped.
#5
#6
Just bought a '40 Pickup
Thanks Carlene,
I found a number on the same spot (#IB463) with a star on either end. I figured it looked important because they gave it two stars but I'm use to the 17 digit one's of todays cars. I would imagine that back then they had fewer '40 pickups and that is why the low number. I also found a "M C" on the right side top approximately in the center of the vehicle, I'm told this may stand for Michigan Chassis.
I did a little reading on your '41 mand it sounds like you have a very nice project going there. Keep up the good work and we'll yak back and forth in the months to come. Thanks again, AL.
I found a number on the same spot (#IB463) with a star on either end. I figured it looked important because they gave it two stars but I'm use to the 17 digit one's of todays cars. I would imagine that back then they had fewer '40 pickups and that is why the low number. I also found a "M C" on the right side top approximately in the center of the vehicle, I'm told this may stand for Michigan Chassis.
I did a little reading on your '41 mand it sounds like you have a very nice project going there. Keep up the good work and we'll yak back and forth in the months to come. Thanks again, AL.
#7
Just bought a '40 Pickup
Al
I'm putting the Brakes under the floor. I got the Master Cylinder with a remote fill so all I'll have on the fire wall is the small fill tank. I've already got the rear end, springs and shocks mounted and am beginning to work on the front end. Only problem is, the front shock kit we ordered is on BACK ORDER. I called out to Chassis Engineering and it's not really "back ordered". They build he stuff there and are a few weeks behind.
As soon as Carlene can get our scanner working, I'll have her post a picture of the progress we've made on the frame setup.
Also, Carlene wanted me to tell you that our frame also has the M C on the frame and front cross member and although it's kinda wore down, you're right - there is a star in front of the VIN number.
Good luck on building your puzzle. At least I took my own apart so hopefully I'll remember where everything goes.
Steve
I'm putting the Brakes under the floor. I got the Master Cylinder with a remote fill so all I'll have on the fire wall is the small fill tank. I've already got the rear end, springs and shocks mounted and am beginning to work on the front end. Only problem is, the front shock kit we ordered is on BACK ORDER. I called out to Chassis Engineering and it's not really "back ordered". They build he stuff there and are a few weeks behind.
As soon as Carlene can get our scanner working, I'll have her post a picture of the progress we've made on the frame setup.
Also, Carlene wanted me to tell you that our frame also has the M C on the frame and front cross member and although it's kinda wore down, you're right - there is a star in front of the VIN number.
Good luck on building your puzzle. At least I took my own apart so hopefully I'll remember where everything goes.
Steve
Trending Topics
#8
Just bought a '40 Pickup
Almost forgot - Minneapolis is far far away, but we will be in Daytona in November for the Turkey Rod Run. (Only about a 3 hour ride) Unfortunately, the '41 won't be with us.... It won't be done yet. It's that time and money thing. Will take my '92 F250 extended cab though. You never know what you'll find at a show that big.
Later - Steve
Later - Steve
#9
Just bought a '40 Pickup
Steve,
I waent to the Master Products brake kits on line and found a picture of the type of master cylinder/booster, bracket and pedal, shape and sizes that they use for their 35 - 40 pickup. It kind of gave me an idea of what I needed. While I was looking through my boxes I located a 7" booster and m/cyl. and took a walk across the lane to my neighbour's for him to have a look at it. He says, "no problem" to build the bracket and pedal. He built the last one for my '37 Plymouth coupe which I used a 8" booster and m/cyl. from a '76 Ford LTD II with a built-in proportioning valve for the rear drums. Master Products has a nice site and it explains a lot about brake systems and their components that make it work. I will be using a Mustang II suspension with stock A-arms, 11" Granada rotors, '82 Camaro calipers and brake hoses, with 5 lb. Wilwood residual pressure valve on the front. Rear end is '67 Comet nine inch with drums and using 10 lb. residual pressure valve to the rear brakes. I would like to try that remote fill tank like you are using, as it is a 'pain' to check fluid under the mat/floor door. What kind of remote did you use? Definately would like to see your pictures of your setup, I'm always open to different ways.
Was hoping to sandblast my frame and paint it, but I'm having a hard time make dry air with all the rain we been having lately. Spent the last two nights running copper pipe and line filters around the shop walls and ceiling trying to dry out my air to the sand blaster. Did you ever try painting your frame with POR15 paint? That is one paint that is impervious to stone chips and abrasion and they have my vote on that!!!
I remember seeing somewhere in the posts that you live in Florida. I guess Minneapolis would be a little jog for you and Carlene. It's still 500 miles South for me to go from here too. It sure is a nice show and last year there was about 9600 pre-'64 vehicles there and more expected this year. I saw some pictures in Rod and Custom of your last years Turkey Run show. You guys sure have some beautiful rods down there.
I wish I could find out how to post a picture on this group. I'll have to ask some of the others how its done. Thanks for the come back, its people like you and Forty that make this hobby worth while, Thanks, AL.
I waent to the Master Products brake kits on line and found a picture of the type of master cylinder/booster, bracket and pedal, shape and sizes that they use for their 35 - 40 pickup. It kind of gave me an idea of what I needed. While I was looking through my boxes I located a 7" booster and m/cyl. and took a walk across the lane to my neighbour's for him to have a look at it. He says, "no problem" to build the bracket and pedal. He built the last one for my '37 Plymouth coupe which I used a 8" booster and m/cyl. from a '76 Ford LTD II with a built-in proportioning valve for the rear drums. Master Products has a nice site and it explains a lot about brake systems and their components that make it work. I will be using a Mustang II suspension with stock A-arms, 11" Granada rotors, '82 Camaro calipers and brake hoses, with 5 lb. Wilwood residual pressure valve on the front. Rear end is '67 Comet nine inch with drums and using 10 lb. residual pressure valve to the rear brakes. I would like to try that remote fill tank like you are using, as it is a 'pain' to check fluid under the mat/floor door. What kind of remote did you use? Definately would like to see your pictures of your setup, I'm always open to different ways.
Was hoping to sandblast my frame and paint it, but I'm having a hard time make dry air with all the rain we been having lately. Spent the last two nights running copper pipe and line filters around the shop walls and ceiling trying to dry out my air to the sand blaster. Did you ever try painting your frame with POR15 paint? That is one paint that is impervious to stone chips and abrasion and they have my vote on that!!!
I remember seeing somewhere in the posts that you live in Florida. I guess Minneapolis would be a little jog for you and Carlene. It's still 500 miles South for me to go from here too. It sure is a nice show and last year there was about 9600 pre-'64 vehicles there and more expected this year. I saw some pictures in Rod and Custom of your last years Turkey Run show. You guys sure have some beautiful rods down there.
I wish I could find out how to post a picture on this group. I'll have to ask some of the others how its done. Thanks for the come back, its people like you and Forty that make this hobby worth while, Thanks, AL.
#10
Just bought a '40 Pickup
Although I sandblasted our frame and everything, it's not really required with the POR-15. Wire brush any heavy rust, then I'd wash the entire frame down good and let it dry. Next, use POR's Metal Ready product. It works the same as OSFO but only has a 20 min. drying time compared to the 24 hrs OSFO says. We've used both and other than the dry time, they appear to work the same. After that, you can put on the POR-15.
We used it on our frame and its easy to work with and they weren't kidding - it's tough. I had Steve get me their Metal Mask paint which works the same as the POR-15 but looks about as close as you can get to bare metal. I painted the rear end and all the nuts, bolts, washers with this and it looks good. Black frame, white shocks and metal looking rear.
I'll try & find time to mess with my scanner this weekend & post a picture.
#11
Just bought a '40 Pickup
Alittle40, sounds like you're going to town on that truck!!! I'm going to be way behind soon. I haven't had much time to do anything with my truck as I have been finishing my mustang and the wife has had trouble with her back. I will be starting on it soon though, If you want to post a picture just click on reply there is a link on there to upload files from your computer then copy the url and paste it in the message with [ i m g ] in front of the url and [/img* behind the url the * should be ]don't use any spaces. I will post a picture of the rear in my truck for you and show you how it should look. John