Re-carpeting
#1
Re-carpeting
i cleaned up all the surface on the floor pans of my '73. Im going to apply two coats of rustoleum rust reformer and then im going to paint it.My grandad has the paint. Its marine grade and is suposed to fight against the evil rust monster.( he mentioned it was silver).
When ripping up the old carpet i found on the bottom; Plastic layered "tar Paper" then Some areas had a hin layer of black flexible foam. Then there was the insulation Sound/Heat and the carpet.
I intend to now put a layer plastic "drop cloth" down and tape it to seal the seams Then i will do the same with 2 or 3 layers of tar paper. ( the paper i have is much thinner than 1 layer of the original). for now i will use my old carpet and insulation.
I worry that the plastic will trap water rather than prevent it from reaching the metral floor.
what should i do.????
Thanks -Pete
When ripping up the old carpet i found on the bottom; Plastic layered "tar Paper" then Some areas had a hin layer of black flexible foam. Then there was the insulation Sound/Heat and the carpet.
I intend to now put a layer plastic "drop cloth" down and tape it to seal the seams Then i will do the same with 2 or 3 layers of tar paper. ( the paper i have is much thinner than 1 layer of the original). for now i will use my old carpet and insulation.
I worry that the plastic will trap water rather than prevent it from reaching the metral floor.
what should i do.????
Thanks -Pete
#3
#4
#5
As long as there are no holes in the floorboards (where water can wick up to the carpet), or leaks in your cowl/glass (where water can drip down to your carpet), you should be fine with putting a plastic vapor barrier down before your underlayment/carpet. I would use rubber mats afterwards so the carpets don't get wet from rain/snow off your feet.
BTW, I rolled on two coats of Herculiner onto my floorpans/under-seat area, that's guaranteed to keep the floorpans solid. I did it because I had the interior ripped up and already was rolling in the bedliner for my box.
BTW, I rolled on two coats of Herculiner onto my floorpans/under-seat area, that's guaranteed to keep the floorpans solid. I did it because I had the interior ripped up and already was rolling in the bedliner for my box.
#6
I use a coat of Por 15 after I get the floor cleaned up, then a layer of dynamat before putting the carpet in. The Por 15 seals the floor and is a rust inhibitor and the dynamat really kills a lot of road noise. I also use seam sealer wherever there is a seam on the floor. As for the outside of the floor, I have the same coat of Por 15, then a coat of brush on bedliner and again all the seams are filled with seam sealer.
#7
I would not use the plastic. Any air trapped under it will contain moisture and it will be trapped under it. Just go with por-15 or something similar and if you want to use dynamat or fatmat. It kills sound but also will stop moisture that gets on the rug from ever reaching the floor. Being that it adheres directly to the floor there will be virtually no air under it. I did the whole interior of my supercab and it is as quiet as any newer pickup out there.
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#8
#13
Ranger73
I really like your tar paper (ideal). Tar paper would probably mold to the
floor and the ribs in the floorpan with lots of heat, like maybe a '' heat gun'' !
After the heat could lay a piece of foam, and some weight, on it over night.
P.S. post back and let us know how it turns out, I think the marine paint, if
for metal would work good.
Wally Womack
I really like your tar paper (ideal). Tar paper would probably mold to the
floor and the ribs in the floorpan with lots of heat, like maybe a '' heat gun'' !
After the heat could lay a piece of foam, and some weight, on it over night.
P.S. post back and let us know how it turns out, I think the marine paint, if
for metal would work good.
Wally Womack
Last edited by Pro-Street/StateTK; 01-23-2007 at 10:11 AM.
#14
Well heres the story with the marine paint,....its AWESOME.
My granddad had a few cans and used one a year ago.It was half full when he was done withit.When he opened it to help me with my truck (hes a profesional)
it was rock solid.Not even a screwdriver and a hammer could even chip it.I believe the stuff has alluminum dust in it or something.It basically driesd into a cylander of metal.
I painted my floor pans all the way to the bottom of my rear window.it dried over night in moderate temp.( i had a heat lamp in the trck)In the morning i woke up to what looked like a polished aluminum floor. In a sense it was, its liked i painted a layer of aluminum over my floor.I mgiht do the whole cab and then paint to match my exterior.
My dad actually painted floor and under carige of his '79 with roofing tar, he said after he did so there was almost no noise.
I however have been told that there are inserts that replace the old tarpaper. Dad said they are cardboard sealed in some kind of foil.
-Pete
My granddad had a few cans and used one a year ago.It was half full when he was done withit.When he opened it to help me with my truck (hes a profesional)
it was rock solid.Not even a screwdriver and a hammer could even chip it.I believe the stuff has alluminum dust in it or something.It basically driesd into a cylander of metal.
I painted my floor pans all the way to the bottom of my rear window.it dried over night in moderate temp.( i had a heat lamp in the trck)In the morning i woke up to what looked like a polished aluminum floor. In a sense it was, its liked i painted a layer of aluminum over my floor.I mgiht do the whole cab and then paint to match my exterior.
My dad actually painted floor and under carige of his '79 with roofing tar, he said after he did so there was almost no noise.
I however have been told that there are inserts that replace the old tarpaper. Dad said they are cardboard sealed in some kind of foil.
-Pete
#15