So presumably this crankcase ventilation (PCV in gassers) is sending engine oil for burning which is in my case is not making it ot the combustion chambers but rather leaking out from the coolant charge system ("intercooler")at the flexible hoses?

hmmmm....thats a lot of oil, given how wet my engine is in back.

Me hopes its not blowby engine oil and rather a leak an external seal or HPOP.

 

I took some more pics last night after a 60 mile drive. The sheen and camera flash seem to show the latest wet spots.

I haven't had the time to clean off the oil yet. (Frankly I'm not to fond of washing down engines even with low pressure water. I've always had no start conditions afterwards.)

Anyway, it appears that most of the oil is from around the flexible couplers.

 

well you can take the ic tubes off, and air filter assembly off, clean it all off the truck real good. then clean all in the bay with just a bunch of paper towels with some type of cleaner. when you put everything back together make sure its nice and tight, not saying use a 1/2 ratchet with a 3 foot long breaker bar.

 

you can use solvent sprayer & skip the water.

 

Good ideas gentlemen.

My buddy always jokingly suggests gasoline (great and cheap solvent) and a match.

I can handle the cleaning and tightening part. Im more concerned about why so much engine oil is passing through the CAC plumbing. Is this normal on a motor with 205k miles?

 

Lets wait to render judgement on that until after you have REALLY cleaned up that engine bay. Run it for a little while, and lets see how fast it gets dirty again and FROM WHERE.

 

Get some purple power or your favorite degreaser and soak down the HOT engine with it. Turn off A/C, let engine idle and BLAST THE CRAP out of that dirty engine with a pressure washer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Do not spray the fuse block under the hood ('99-01 trucks), but everything else gets a HEALTHY dose of 2500-3000 psi.

I won't even work on one of these before I do this. I have literally p-washed DOZENS of 7.3 engines and engine bays and never had an issue yet. There is no reason to fear this. YOU will thank me and your engine will love you. I will spend up to 2 hrs cleaning an engine like yours, starting underneath and working my way up. The HOT water p-washer is by far the best tool, but cold water works OK. My customers are always happy to pay for this and I often hear the first thing they do when showing off their truck is pop the hood!!

The oil I see in these latest pics is likely an accumulation of years of neglecting the engine washing and is typical of trucks that are marginally maintained. After the engine is CLEAN, you could do a boost leak test - but I can almost assure you there are leaks. No matter what else you find, I would strongly recommend removing the CAC pipes and 5-way plenum - then degrease the pipes, wash the boots in hot, soapy water until 'squeeky clean', then final-clean all of the boots and mating surfaces with brake cleaner and clean, lint-free rags as you are assembling them. THEN, do a boost leak test (look up FTE member Trey Spooner's youtube video 'How to perform a boost leak test on a 7.3'). You can build a boost leak detector for less than a Starbucks...

If upgrades are in the budget, the first recommendation I have would be Riffraff's plenum inserts and t-bolt clamps for the 5-way plenum to heads. The cheesy OE worm clamps here ALWAYS loosen up over time - the t-bolt clamps do a much better job of staying tight/sealed. The next time budget allows, I would upgrade the CAC boots. Once you've done these (2) things, the oil from CCV becomes a non-issue.


If you have oil pooling in the valley and running onto the ground, there is a leak somewhere - not CCV oil weeping from boots.

This engine was pretty filthy, but we don't put up with that!!! If there was a leak here, we could find it pretty easily.

 

SkySkiJason,

I cant thank you enough for your post.

Sunday I started cleaning. I took the black and blue couplers off from the CAC. I used some GUNK brand engine cleaning gel on the bottom of the engine, with a brush, and used 2 cans of brake cleaner (not NEARLY enough) on the areas in the valley along with some ZEP 505 degreaser in the valley.

I'm not even half way done. I noticed the oil pan needs painting so I also ordered some paint for the pan (Rust-Oleum 7830730 8-Ounce Rust Reformer). Lots more degreasing needs to happen. I just ordered 2 bottles of Spray Nine 22732 Grez-Off Heavy Duty Degreaser, 32 oz. which folks on Amazon seem to think works well.

That being said, there is NO WAY in HELL I'm brave enough to pressure wash my engine. I've always had bad luck when washing motors. I'm scared to even run a hose over the engine and its electrical components. The DS fender is chock full of electrical connectors, some of which have been sampled and likely enjoyed by some vermin.

As for your advice on the oil leak and couplers. I took the couplers off, cleaned them and the mating surfaces thoroughly and re-tightened. I agree that the engine oil leak must be from something other than boost leaking through the couplers. But Its not obvious to me from where. After I clean, I'm gonna add some dye to the engine oil as well.

The truck was a fleet vehicle for 190k miles...so you can imagine that it was treated accordingly. Ive since begun to pamper her.

I'm a little nervous because when I was cleaning the motor and had the cold and hot side couplers off I may have sprayed a little water into the open tubes inadvertently, but its impossible to know for sure. Please tell me everything is gonna be ok Mr.

I'm gonna look for the video.

Will you come over and pressure wash my engine? I will squint and peak through my fingers...

 

A little water in the CAC or even intake won't hurt anything - I promise!

Cover the stuff on driver-side fender with a garbage bag if that's what is making you nervous. There is NOTHING you can get wet that will hurt anything. (except that fuse block)

If the varmints have compromised the wiring someplace, I'D much rather find out in the driveway than in a rainstorm - right after a heavy snow - on the way to the airport with in-laws after they've visited waaay to long already...

If you leave the engine running, and your worst fear happens (engine dies) - you'll at least know what you were spraying when it quit! Seriously though, I know it looks like A LOT is going on in there, but there are only a couple of connections/sensors that will be affected by you BLASTING away under there. ICP sensor and VC wires top the list and they are not prone to water intrusion.

You can bring that thing over any time and I'll give it the love you are afraid to! I'm on the GA/NC border half way between SC and TN. Pretty much right in the middle of nowhere!!!

 

SSJ,

You rock man. Thanks for the offer. If only I wasnt like 500 miles away from you!

What about the alternator? Do you cover it?

Ok, Im gonna man-up and at least wash it down completely (WHILE HOT) with degreaser and a hose or maybe some hot water, but no pressure! (I dont have access to a pressure washer). I'm scared man...scared.

Thanks for the tip on the RDP Plenum Reinforcing Inserts? for Ford 7.3L 99.5-03.

The t-bolts that RiffRaff sells are motorcraft replacements: $27 EACH!!! F-that. x 8 for the top of the motor alone! Mine look fine after I cleaned them. OR the $4 each generic kind, which is what I assume you're endorsing.Stainless Steel T-Bolt Boot Clamps

I need to measure...not sure if mine are 3.25 or 3.5.

 

Alternator is fine, just don't spray degreaser in it and avoid blasting it directly.

IIRC, L99+ plenum boots are 3" ID and CAC is 3.25. E99 has smaller plenums and 6.0 CAC has one 3" and one 3.25" connection.

 

I used a hose with regular pressure to wash the hot engine and had no issues. Still scared to pressure wash the top of the engine!

Pressure would have been handy on the bottom for sure! Thanks Jason.

 

I might remind you - we like PICTURES!

Getting it clean will help you track down the leak.

 

I have a 1997 ford f super duty and the issue I'm having is the truck runs then after awhile it stalls out on me now I have changed every sensor possible too the issue the I p valve was changed just put a brand new fuel tank and sender unit in brand new Ecuador a brand new fuel filter I was told it's doing so. Cause I am getting air in the system and it's said too be the. Valve behind my fuel bowl known too go bad in the o rings just need too know if that would allow air too get into the system and cause the truck too stall.

 

Hey,Pop, I think I have the same issue but just can't find what the correct size o ring is listed for the rear plug on the 7.3 hpop. I know you bought the kit that contains the correct one, but wondered if they said what size it was!!! I'm trying to avoid buying the whole kit obviously!🤑🤑