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  #61  
Old 05-13-2010, 10:56 PM
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guzzle92 guzzle92 is offline
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If that is the original pump with 290K, I would be seriously looking at Dieselsite's Adrenalin pump.
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  #62  
Old 05-13-2010, 11:19 PM
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It is, but I don't have the money to get a new pump if I don't have to. I just wanna get it plugged back up. I'll replace the pump when I get around to hopping the motor up... you have the O-ring kit I see. Would that do the trick? It looks like it's coming from the outlet ports and MAYBE the plug just below them.
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Early 1999 F-250 Lariat 4x4 w/7.3L PSD, AT, SC, LB, 315/75/16's on 16x10's, 4" Lift, 4" Exhaust, HPx, Regulated Fuel Return, Hutch/Harpoon, NVK4 PCM, John Wood Valve Body, 6637 w/Pete's Cover, CCV, EBPV Delete, DP-Tuner, IssPro's - 332,000 miles!

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  #63  
Old 05-16-2010, 08:36 AM
gorillafan gorillafan is offline
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Oil leak problem

Hi guys iam new to this. I got on couple of days ago read some of the forums they was very helpfull thank you guys. I found out very quickly where my oil leak might be THE HPOP it looks like this common. My problem now is i replacest the o-ring on back of pump ( it was shot ) I started the truck it ran for about 15 min while i look for leaks shut the truck off. Check the oil filled the windowsheild washer up wiped engine compartment started the engine back the truck out of shop went in house for a hour came out the engine would not start it turns over want start. is it air in pump or what. I just bought the truck two weeks ago the guy i bought it from said i had to add lucas oil additive when i change oil because of the viscusity. ( spelling is not my thing ) if it not right it wont run i add a quart like he said it still wont start can anybody help
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  #64  
Old 05-24-2010, 05:41 AM
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I have no idea what it might be... I know alot of guys on here run Rotella, but I have heard it can cause problems with getting the truck to start. Any ideas, guys?

Well, I found my leak and "fixed" it... I have yet to test it out since I broke a sensor on the front of the driver's-side head while I was working on the HPOP fittings. The funny thing about it was when I pulled the plug on it, there was oil IN the plug. Also, I barely bumped it and it snapped off... so, I think it was going bad to begin with. But anyways, I was looking around and determined the general source by Clay's instructions. I called a local diesel chop that my dad's company has dealt with for years and told them about it> I told them it looks like it might be the front outlet port. The asked if I saw and O-ring squishing out between the pump and the fitting. I thought I saw something that looked like a shredded O-ring hanging out. So, my dad bought an O-ring kit from Ford for me and I got them put in yesterday. It was exactly what I thought it was... when I pulled that fitting, there was one tattered O-ring on that fitting. So it's all back together, but I can't get the truck to start without that sensor. I hope it doesn't leak... I tightened them down to 25ft/lbs like Ford said to. So, I SHOULD be good to go... we'll see. The hole in the back of the valley pan had gotten plugged up as the oil was flowing so that explains why my "leak" slowed up and why I smelled burnt oil under hard acceleration. When I was poking around in the valley with my big syringe, I unplugged the whole unintentionally. There's was a nice-sized puddle on the ground after that!

I will post my results as soon as I get it running.

BTW... when replacing the O-rings, it's a great time to install a high-pressure crossover. When doing the O-rings, the oil from the HPOP and reservoir get drained out. I didn't have much oil come out of the heads when I put my HPx in there...
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Early 1999 F-250 Lariat 4x4 w/7.3L PSD, AT, SC, LB, 315/75/16's on 16x10's, 4" Lift, 4" Exhaust, HPx, Regulated Fuel Return, Hutch/Harpoon, NVK4 PCM, John Wood Valve Body, 6637 w/Pete's Cover, CCV, EBPV Delete, DP-Tuner, IssPro's - 332,000 miles!

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  #65  
Old 05-24-2010, 08:19 AM
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Jon,

I sure hope you used the LocTite like the instructions indicate.

Otherwise, you may be re-doing this job. It's VERY important for correct sealing.

Pop
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  #66  
Old 05-24-2010, 10:47 AM
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Yeah, I did! It was the Ford kit that came with O-rings AND LocTite... I applied it to the first three threads as described in the instructions and torqued each fitting and plug to 25ft/lbs.
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Early 1999 F-250 Lariat 4x4 w/7.3L PSD, AT, SC, LB, 315/75/16's on 16x10's, 4" Lift, 4" Exhaust, HPx, Regulated Fuel Return, Hutch/Harpoon, NVK4 PCM, John Wood Valve Body, 6637 w/Pete's Cover, CCV, EBPV Delete, DP-Tuner, IssPro's - 332,000 miles!

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  #67  
Old 05-24-2010, 11:37 AM
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And the threads were SPOTLESSLY clean from oil? Use brake cleaner (or similar) on both sides of the threads?

If so, you've got-'er-done!

WOW! Was that the torque spec on those fittings? Seems kinda' high into aluminum.

Pop
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  #68  
Old 05-24-2010, 09:25 PM
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I got my oil leak stoped o-ring on back hpop. I drove the truck about 70 miles. Shut it off came out the next morning truck would not start. check hpop pressure it shows nothing been told the pump is shoot. Big bucks now
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  #69  
Old 05-25-2010, 12:38 AM
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You sure it's the HPOP and not the LPOP?
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  #70  
Old 05-25-2010, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpringerPop View Post
And the threads were SPOTLESSLY clean from oil? Use brake cleaner (or similar) on both sides of the threads?

If so, you've got-'er-done!

WOW! Was that the torque spec on those fittings? Seems kinda' high into aluminum.

Pop
HAHA!!! YUP!!! Cleaned them off with a rag and Braklene... inside AND out. I had let the plug in the back drain overnight so it wasn't leaking oil anymore. I just took a ratchet extension with a rag sprayed with a bit of Braklene on the end and twisted it around in each of the openings. I read the directions that came with the O-rings several times because I know the HPOP is a BIG deal. What was kinda cool was that the O-ring kit came with both the Ford AND the IH directions. Both said the same thing, but the IH directions had better illustrations.
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Early 1999 F-250 Lariat 4x4 w/7.3L PSD, AT, SC, LB, 315/75/16's on 16x10's, 4" Lift, 4" Exhaust, HPx, Regulated Fuel Return, Hutch/Harpoon, NVK4 PCM, John Wood Valve Body, 6637 w/Pete's Cover, CCV, EBPV Delete, DP-Tuner, IssPro's - 332,000 miles!

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  #71  
Old 05-26-2010, 11:14 PM
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Doing good, guys... NO leaks at all! I did the HPx, cleaned the IC tubes and boots as well as the spider, and checked the boost tube while I had it all apart. The tube had to be replaced... it was plugged up and had holes. The boots were NASTY! Needless to say, after these few things, I've got some power back! I'm really happy with it... now, if I can work out what I think is air in the oil lines. The starts are kinda long, but they get shorter with every start so, I think I'm good.
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Early 1999 F-250 Lariat 4x4 w/7.3L PSD, AT, SC, LB, 315/75/16's on 16x10's, 4" Lift, 4" Exhaust, HPx, Regulated Fuel Return, Hutch/Harpoon, NVK4 PCM, John Wood Valve Body, 6637 w/Pete's Cover, CCV, EBPV Delete, DP-Tuner, IssPro's - 332,000 miles!

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  #72  
Old 06-10-2010, 12:04 PM
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7.3 oil leak repair kit

I found this guy on youtube that has a repair kit for the 7.3 oil leak that keeps you from having to pull the engine (saves labor and other parts problems). He shows how its done. YouTube - 7.3 Ford Rusted Oil Pan Repair Kit (1of 2)
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  #73  
Old 06-10-2010, 06:02 PM
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That just hit YouTube today.

I watched both parts and have commented there.

I told him to watch the cost if he wants to sell a bunch of them.

Polysulfide is a good sealant in this application.

This really deserves a new thread with a very-descriptive, easily searched, title.

Pop
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  #74  
Old 06-10-2010, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpringerPop View Post
That just hit YouTube today.

I watched both parts and have commented there.

I told him to watch the cost if he wants to sell a bunch of them.

Polysulfide is a good sealant in this application.

This really deserves a new thread with a very-descriptive, easily searched, title.

Pop

Haven't watch the entire video but I have never seen anything like it anywhere. I have only heard of people using POR 15 coating as prevention in high rust prone states or epoxy if any pin holes had developed. What did they want for that kit?
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  #75  
Old 06-11-2010, 12:07 AM
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I'm only seeing part 1 of 2 not part 2
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Old 06-11-2010, 12:07 AM
 
 
 
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