IF 47 - 72 FLARESIDE BEDS WILL INTERCHANGE AND BOLT ON, WILL THEY BOLT ON TO A TRUCK THAT WAS A STYLESIDE ASSUMING THE WHEELBASE IS THE SAME?

 

OK GUYS THIS IS BAD I'M ANSWERING MYSELF I'VE BEEN TOLD NOW THAT 57 - 60 WILL BOLT ON AND 60 - 72 MAY BOLT ON. C'MON NOW I KNOW SOMEONE KNOWS THIS FOR SURE. LET'S GET SOME DISCUSSION ON THIS.

 

If you are referring to your 1957, The '53-'72 6.5' Flareside bed will bolt right on providing you have the 110" wheelbase. The 8' flareside bed will bolt right on if you have the 118" wheelbase.
Kenny

 

THANKS KENNY YOU DON'T KNOW HOW GOOD IT FEELS TO HEAR YOU SAY THAT I WAS HOPING YOU WOULD ANSWER THIS AS IT SEEMS YOU KNOW ALL THE ANSWERS. MANY THANKS!!

CHARLES

 

No problem. I don't know all the answers, but I'm glad I was able to help you here.
Kenny

 

Charles, I'm sure you only like to type using capitol letters. On the internet, Some people see capitols letters as yelling. I wouldn't want to see your words mistaken by someone, somewhere down the road. Just a little friendly advice.
Kenny

 

thanks I do not type only peck. using only caps is easier to not have to worry about when to capitalize. thanks again. how about my oiling question? do you know Walt knuckles he cuts down another seal to eliminate the rope. what do you know about this?

 

Charles, I only peck too. (Lol) I haven't come across any oiling question. Where did you post it?
Kenny

 

Sorry I think I posted that with the y-block discussion group. Basically I was trying to find out about block/oil pump/head modifications to improve the oiling system. If you run the oil available today versus the oil of the 50's shouldn't that cure the gunk problem? If you add a pcv valve to the valley will that not pull enough air to keep the road draft tube from spitting oil? Of course I'm speaking of a motor that doesn't have blow by problems. What other tricks i.e. champhering oil holes, drilling out passage ways, restricting flow to some areas, etc.... can you do. Are some blocks superior to others in regards to oiling? my current plans call for a turned down 312 crank and that will let me run a vinyl seal to control oil loss there. any ideas?
MANY THANKS (Kenny I was shouting there)
Charles

 

Charles, I didn't see your post in the Y-block forum either. You might get a better answer if you post it there. I'm afraid I can't help you much on this question. I know oil these days is better than in the 50's and it does help, but to what degree I'm not sure. Gaskets were improved over the years also. I don't know of any tricks, but I imagine somebody in the Y-block forum would. Sorry I couldn't be of more help to you.
Kenny

 

No need for apologies. I have learned a ton. I left a message with Mummert to see about the cost of head work. I'm a little, no a lot worried that I can't afford it. I have the equipment to port heads but I'm scared of breaking through the water jacket. I know the blocks had extra meat in them I wonder if the heads do to. I just ordered the Y-Block magazine. when I get it I will try to get the back issues dealing with porting. What do you know about porting?
thanks
Charles

 

I think I have a idea. I will be using a automatic which means the clutch slave cylinder, linkage, and hydraulic lines will be out of the way. also I will be using a floor shift so the shifter linkage including the column mounted part can be removed. Now it still dumps right on top of the steering column, however if you raise the motor and transmission about 1" (there is room to do this) things start to look better. it is still pointed at the steering column and all I have to do is reach down there and gently twist the cast iron manifold over towards the motor. crazy you say yeah so I think maybe a angled plate between the head and the manifold is in order. very crazy you say. yeah your probably right but I think I'm going to study it a little unless I find those rams horn manifolds on Saturday.

SERIOUSLY is there a possibility that this might work. It looks like I'l only need about 15 degrees.

thanks
Charles