Engine coolant temp sensor?
#16
I don't watch all that stuff (there is another screen to flip to for the transmission PIDs) - I'd crash. It's logging so I can look at the data later if I need to see something I'm curious about. It's positioned so if I feel or hear something, I can flip the screen to grill the usual suspects - or to reassure me all is well. I don't have time to read all the gauges during a WOT test, but I have a lot to choose from if I want to know one or two PIDs.
As I drive along the highway in cruise control, I do "scan" the tablet along with all the other gauges - so I have a firm understanding of what's "normal" (and what's not) on Stinky. Case in point: I was driving to Bend, OR from Reno, NV (I was halfway home) a few weeks ago. I heard a familiar dreaded sound when I pulled into town and I looked at my gauges. My IPR was unusually high at idle - that was the confirming data that an injector was coming loose. Lift the hood, grab the mechanic's stethoscope, and listen. #2 was making noise. I popped the tops in the hotel parking lot and put the torque wrench to it. I set the wrench to 50 in/lbs (that's the threshold for needing to pull the injector and re-ring it) it clicked - whew. I slowly set it higher until the injector bolt gave way - 75 in/lbs. I now have a definitive number: 75 in/lbs of injector torque can be heard, and measured with the IPR/ICP combination. Torque the bolt, fire up the truck with the top off, and the IPR went back to normal.
As for injectors - I'm one of the few that has run new-reman and brand new back-to-back. Nothing less than new. Note that little dot after "new" - that means new, period. It's a different world when you put new ones in there.
Saying that... before you grab the mouse, grab the torque wrench first. My injectors were in the mood to play Whack-A-Mole and I had to bring that game to a conclusion before I could really hang the blame on the sticks. One of my 8 deadly sins was to use Lock-Tite gel on the injector bolts - the gel doesn't work in this application, but the normal stuff does. Another sin was to put the covers on too quick. I have to run the engine up to full temp, then torque 'em down again before grabbing the covers.
Air in fuel was shortening the life of my #2 and #7 injectors, I found my Hutch mod needed a second hose clamp on the line from the tank.
As I drive along the highway in cruise control, I do "scan" the tablet along with all the other gauges - so I have a firm understanding of what's "normal" (and what's not) on Stinky. Case in point: I was driving to Bend, OR from Reno, NV (I was halfway home) a few weeks ago. I heard a familiar dreaded sound when I pulled into town and I looked at my gauges. My IPR was unusually high at idle - that was the confirming data that an injector was coming loose. Lift the hood, grab the mechanic's stethoscope, and listen. #2 was making noise. I popped the tops in the hotel parking lot and put the torque wrench to it. I set the wrench to 50 in/lbs (that's the threshold for needing to pull the injector and re-ring it) it clicked - whew. I slowly set it higher until the injector bolt gave way - 75 in/lbs. I now have a definitive number: 75 in/lbs of injector torque can be heard, and measured with the IPR/ICP combination. Torque the bolt, fire up the truck with the top off, and the IPR went back to normal.
As for injectors - I'm one of the few that has run new-reman and brand new back-to-back. Nothing less than new. Note that little dot after "new" - that means new, period. It's a different world when you put new ones in there.
Saying that... before you grab the mouse, grab the torque wrench first. My injectors were in the mood to play Whack-A-Mole and I had to bring that game to a conclusion before I could really hang the blame on the sticks. One of my 8 deadly sins was to use Lock-Tite gel on the injector bolts - the gel doesn't work in this application, but the normal stuff does. Another sin was to put the covers on too quick. I have to run the engine up to full temp, then torque 'em down again before grabbing the covers.
Air in fuel was shortening the life of my #2 and #7 injectors, I found my Hutch mod needed a second hose clamp on the line from the tank.
#17
Back on the coolant temp sensor subject, I wonder if the stock gauge behavior is due to the gauge, or the sensor? If the latter, replacing the sensor with one that operated in a continuous, rather than stepwise, fashion would make the gauge useful. Does anyone know? I suppose looking at the sensor test procedure from the shop manual would tell us.
Mark
Mark
#18
It's called Asteroid Smart. Check it out on amazon.
#19
Back on the coolant temp sensor subject, I wonder if the stock gauge behavior is due to the gauge, or the sensor? If the latter, replacing the sensor with one that operated in a continuous, rather than stepwise, fashion would make the gauge useful. Does anyone know? I suppose looking at the sensor test procedure from the shop manual would tell us.
Mark
Mark
I think Ford went with the step type to keep owners from freaking out when they are towing. I've had an actual coolant temp gauge in a couple of my trucks and it does get a little freaky when towing a 7% grade with 25k lbs gross and the temp gauge begins to fly. Then the clutch fan locks up and the temps plummet down again.....hopefully.
#20
That's exactly what I want to see! Between the Excursion hood installation, the intake noise, and my ringing ears, I rarely hear the fan clutch kick in. The stock gauge in my off-road 4Runner behaves that way, and it's really handy. Perhaps not for a soccer mom, but there aren't a lot of them 'round these parts.
This may be worth researching...
Mark
This may be worth researching...
Mark
#21
Is it possible that the tapped holes for the mounting bolts and or the bolt threads can get worn in higher mileage engines? It would not take a huge amount of slop to cause a tendency for loose bolts. Does the lock tite compensate for worn threads?
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